Newbie needing 2 cyl OMC stuff!

[Mr.Rude]

Hello to all. New to this site though I have been reading the forum for some time. You may recognize me from S/F! Anyway...

I have purchased a 13 v-hull/pad race boat with 15" transom (200lbs less rigging)
I have decided to run my 60hp Johnson 2cyl which is a 20" currently all stock. I want to do all mods possible! (nothing exotic) I would like to find a 15" mid if possible, a racing gearcase, props AND LOTS OF ADVICE. I must retain standard steering however. Is there parts and ways to build like an SST45? Thanks in advance!

[Mark75H]

I doubt there will be any performance increase with the racing gearcase on a rig like that and since the racing case isn't usually used with a rig that heavy and slow you will have to have props made $500 at a time.

There is a good selection of fast props for the shifting gearcase.

[Mr.Rude]

I would not consider this combo to be heavy, and hopefully not slow either. When is 200lbs heavy? All that is left to add wieght is a motorcycle battery, a 5 gallon tank, and me. I have attached pictures of a boat exactly like the one I am having built. Only the color is different.

[largecar91]

It Looks Like It Would Be A Kick In The *** To Drive To Me! I know there are parts out there. Look at the APR site and the champ boat site in the classified. Also try hydroracer.com. I have a 10' Mirage Bobcat that I would like to put a 45 motor on(someday).

[Mr.Rude]

I have a modded Johnson Stinger I want to put on it, but with the 20" shaft that I have on it for the previous hull I feel it will weigh to much. If I can get the 2cyl to make great power and have a 15" shaft the power/weight ratio should be better than the 3cyl.

[Mark75H]

200 pounds is heavy when the motor is designed for a 125 pound boat, 60 is slow when the motor and props are designed for 70+ ... a lot of things are relative. The OMC twins are legal in the class I run and I've seen some that ran close to 100 mph; some of the guys in my racing class are running triples on 13 foot boats that weigh close to 100 pounds with everything but the motor and driver ... 450 pounds on the water (mine is considered a pig at 550 with my butt in it). The twin that raced with us had a lot of mods, custom hemi heads, 2 2barrel carbs, expansion chamber tuned exhaust and porting that probably could'nt idle (which didn't matter in a full bore racer). You are 100% right about the twin being lighter, but the twin is shorter too and that gives a lower center of gravity which is a considerable advantage of the twin over the triple.

If you aren't running in a racing class, using a heavily modified 56 cubic inch triple will give you a head start on power that can't be matched with a 42 ci twin.

I still think you'd be better off running a shift lower unit with a nose cone like Ron's "Fat C" stuff. Running the small diameter racing lower unit props on boats bigger than they were intended for will give big problems getting over plane and reduce accelleration.

The best battery to use is the Odyssey PC680. More cranking power than you need and only weighs 13 pounds.

[Mr.Rude]

I appreciate the responce. I was wishing to be in the 70's somehow. I was guessing this was possible based on what the boat builder stated. I figured the gear ratio in the stock foot would be too low and I would not be able to prop it large enough. I was told the ratio was 2.67:1. I would need a 26" prop to get that kind of speed! The weight the builder stated was 180-200 less motor and battery.

[Mark75H]

If you work on it, something in the 70's might be attainable, esp with a modified 56 triple. A modified stock lower unit can get you there. That is the speed range the C tunnels run, so I'm sure Ron could supply a prop with enough pitch

[Mr.Rude]

Not having to look for expensive gearcases, midsection, parts, etc will definitly save some headaches and budget. Keep up the good work. I will keep you posted when it is running.

[Fast Fred]

49 or 56 cube triple would lite that hull up:cool: