Ron Hill
11-16-2006, 10:42 PM
Truth is, there is really two thoughts about OPCand maybe the Divisison should be split...The two Divisions are:
!. We're PROFESSIONAL
2. We're GRASSROOTS having fun
I REALLY won't take sides....but I'd like to see Tri Hull become a NATIONAL CLASS for 2007.......
Here are TRI HULLS SECRETS REVEALED TO ME...as I plan to have a Tri Hull or Tri next year..
Hey Ron,
thanks,,,,,,
A lot of builders copied the v166 glastron
delmajic and galaxie didnt even change the sides to get rid of the classic glastron indented v look where they did the 2 color line
main things on motors are:
1. To have the 3 ram mid section,,,faster working and dont bleed down from the pressure
2. the newer ignition system
3. 115 blocks have the 140 portwork,,,just need carbs and 140 ex tuner
1978 135 has the best ports and carbs,,but need to change ignition,,and have to make some brackets to hold the new style stuff ,,, and put on the 3 ram mid section,,,have to modify shifting to work on the 135 block
all 140s work as is,,,,,,,,
if want 135=140 to run better,,,plastic reeds,,,,notch piston skirts on intake side to match intake slot,clean intake side of block castings,round and smooth,D port the intake and exhaust ports(dont raise) weisco pistons,cut heads,drill some holes in the mid for ex relief,,,cut thermostats and run water lines like a merc
plug up upper holes of water pickup and grind water pathway down towards bullet to raise motor a bit more,,,install pointed nosecone
(no low water pickup allowed)
with these minor modifications
the motor will tun 6,500-7,000
have all the power needed,,,,and stay running to finish
guys here run the same motor all year
I havent seen 1 blow in a long time
Tony Terry's son had his throttle stick wide open when he got hit on his motor,,,,and would not shut off,,,,,it ran in neutral for minimum 5 minutes wide open till got cowling off and shoved his shirt over the carbs,,,,,,,fixed throttle and wiring,,,raced next heat,,,not bad,,,,
John
Hull:
Hey Ron,
The old 100s were way back,
the carbs, ports are ok, but not able to put the 140 ex stuffers in cavity, unless do a lot of machine work to be able to use the bubble tuner and the mid has the old external trim,that don't hold well.
Most 115s have the machined surface in the ex cavity to install the stuffers to convert to 140
But for starting and not spending much on the motor
cannot go wrong to have fun.
A guy here is running a 115 and not much off the top guys pace
the 140 just gives motor more breathing for down the straights.
The best hull is the V166 the 15' ers have blunt nose and have tendacy to follow waves in the corners and roll on side. 17'ers work good but extra boat slows down too much in corners and takes longer to get back going.
I can fill you in on the motor part combinations that work the best
and things to do to make them scream.
But a stock 140, works well as is when you get the right prop....as you know with any boat
and stock will run and run and run.
Thanks John for the "SECRETS"...
!. We're PROFESSIONAL
2. We're GRASSROOTS having fun
I REALLY won't take sides....but I'd like to see Tri Hull become a NATIONAL CLASS for 2007.......
Here are TRI HULLS SECRETS REVEALED TO ME...as I plan to have a Tri Hull or Tri next year..
Hey Ron,
thanks,,,,,,
A lot of builders copied the v166 glastron
delmajic and galaxie didnt even change the sides to get rid of the classic glastron indented v look where they did the 2 color line
main things on motors are:
1. To have the 3 ram mid section,,,faster working and dont bleed down from the pressure
2. the newer ignition system
3. 115 blocks have the 140 portwork,,,just need carbs and 140 ex tuner
1978 135 has the best ports and carbs,,but need to change ignition,,and have to make some brackets to hold the new style stuff ,,, and put on the 3 ram mid section,,,have to modify shifting to work on the 135 block
all 140s work as is,,,,,,,,
if want 135=140 to run better,,,plastic reeds,,,,notch piston skirts on intake side to match intake slot,clean intake side of block castings,round and smooth,D port the intake and exhaust ports(dont raise) weisco pistons,cut heads,drill some holes in the mid for ex relief,,,cut thermostats and run water lines like a merc
plug up upper holes of water pickup and grind water pathway down towards bullet to raise motor a bit more,,,install pointed nosecone
(no low water pickup allowed)
with these minor modifications
the motor will tun 6,500-7,000
have all the power needed,,,,and stay running to finish
guys here run the same motor all year
I havent seen 1 blow in a long time
Tony Terry's son had his throttle stick wide open when he got hit on his motor,,,,and would not shut off,,,,,it ran in neutral for minimum 5 minutes wide open till got cowling off and shoved his shirt over the carbs,,,,,,,fixed throttle and wiring,,,raced next heat,,,not bad,,,,
John
Hull:
Hey Ron,
The old 100s were way back,
the carbs, ports are ok, but not able to put the 140 ex stuffers in cavity, unless do a lot of machine work to be able to use the bubble tuner and the mid has the old external trim,that don't hold well.
Most 115s have the machined surface in the ex cavity to install the stuffers to convert to 140
But for starting and not spending much on the motor
cannot go wrong to have fun.
A guy here is running a 115 and not much off the top guys pace
the 140 just gives motor more breathing for down the straights.
The best hull is the V166 the 15' ers have blunt nose and have tendacy to follow waves in the corners and roll on side. 17'ers work good but extra boat slows down too much in corners and takes longer to get back going.
I can fill you in on the motor part combinations that work the best
and things to do to make them scream.
But a stock 140, works well as is when you get the right prop....as you know with any boat
and stock will run and run and run.
Thanks John for the "SECRETS"...