Neal Hydro - I need restorations tips

[CHERON]

I recently purchased a Neal Hydro boat (somewhere between 1946 to 1953 age) to restore. From what I have found it is a three point because it has the two hydro plane "pontoon like shape" built into the bottom.

I am new to boat restoration but when I found this boat I HAD TO HAVE IT!

I plan to strip the old varnish and paint off down to wood and refinish -- the wood is in GREAT shape.

I need tips on how to restore -- such as what to fill gaps in the bottom boards before resealing. Also what to used to seal the bottom and top.

Also where I can find an original throttle control.

I have three pictures 1) from the front 2) the bottom 3) and the original name plate still mounted on the dash.


This is the first time on the forum.

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Thanks ! RON

[JohnsonM50]

It looks great, it is a 3 point hydro. Neals were popular in their time so its value might be high. I would suggest researching its history and how it was done the Ist time plus find out if modern products / materials would decrease the value from what an origional type re-do would be worth.
I would otherwise say West System epoxy and UV protectant varnish.

[Tomtall]

Hi Robert and welcome to BRF!. Your boat looks in very sound shape for the year. Looks like with some TLC it will be great for the Vintage Circuit for show and go. I now one person who frequints this site and has a great looking restored "Neal". His name is John Schubert and has been an active racers his whole life and now does a fair amount with the classic stuff. His name is located in the members colume at the top of the page or you can go to his info page here http://www.boatracingfacts.com/forums/member.php?u=117. Drop him a e-mail. He's a great guy. As far as the throttle goes they are still available thru some different suppliers. I'm attaching one of those web links for parts you may need. Below is a picture of John's "Neal".

http://www.portagebaysystems.com/marine/

[Ron Hill]

When my brother ran C Racing Hydro, the word was out that you used a HACKSAW BLADE between each plank in the bottom..These "LINES" allowed air under the boat, it was thought. It was also thought that if the bottom swelled at a race, there would be room for swelling without the bottom "HOOKING"...

So, don't fill the long ways cracks in the bottom...

[Tim Chance]

What I would do is use a good quality stripper like "Zip-Strip". Follow directions and remove all of the old finish. Then re finish with a high quality spar varnish. I would stay away from West System as it would lower the value both from a dollar and historic standpoint. West System wasn't even thought of back then. I'm with Ron on the joints of the planked bottom. Don't fill them. Also don't do any repairs with plywood. Only use solid mahogony planks. You can get whatever you need for the fabric deck at a small airport.

I would watch e-bay for your throttle and steering wheel. My guess is that the boat came with a Kanier steering wheel. I would get rid of the wheel that is on there. There is an Attwood throttle on e-bay right now. It's old, who knows, it might have come off that very boat.

You can see in the photo the discoloration on the bottom on the centerline about 1/3 of the way up. That is where the fin goes. It is like the fin on a slalom ski. It should be about 10" - 12" long and 4" deep.

No matter what I would join the Antique Outboard Club. AOMCI.

I hope I was of some help. Tim Chance, Saint Louis, MO
timchanceracing@yahoo.com

[John Howe]

Ya might want to put up a post over at www.vintagehydroplanes.com. Now, it`s very much an inboard hydroplane restoration site but I think some of them might give you some tips, but they`ll never admit in public that they did.

[CHERON]

Thanks for the info. I understand the need to get air under the boat for speed. I do not understand how the boat is waterproof if the long cracks are not filled. I really have not had much time to look at it or work on it. I am new to boat restoration. I travel for my job. I appreciate everybody's input -- I want to do it right.

With the help of another team member I found the serial number on the boat -- It was built in 1952. SO it is about 55 years old.....

Also -- I do have the fin for the boat bottom. The previous owner took it off for storage.

Thanks RON H

[Tim Chance]

Thanks for the info. I understand the need to get air under the boat for speed. I do not understand how the boat is waterproof if the long cracks are not filled. I really have not had much time to look at it or work on it. I am new to boat restoration. I travel for my job. I appreciate everybody's input -- I want to do it right.

With the help of another team member I found the serial number on the boat -- It was built in 1952. SO it is about 55 years old.....

Also -- I do have the fin for the boat bottom. The previous owner took it off for storage.

Thanks RON H

I remember now. The boats like that were caulked with some stuff called bedding compound. I think it kind of skinned over and never dried.

[largecar91]

When the boat gets wet, the wood will "swell" thus closing the gabs between the boards. A lot of boats that are restored now will use a caulk in the gaps. The caulking has come a long way. now it will adhere and stretch with the wood eliminating the need to swell the bottom.

[John Howe]

Here`s another website that deals with small outboard hydros.

www.hydroracer.net

The racing season is about to get underway. You might check the schedule and see if there is a race coming up near you. If so, I know you can get a lot of info there at the races if ya just ask around. Heck, if ya can, bring the boat with you and let them look it over.

Now don`t let them know if you have any money because if you do, they`ll all try to sell you a "slightly used, only driven on weekends a few times a year" modern race boat rig. :D

[crackerboat]

I have done a few restorations, and with a newly acquired boat I always wrestle with the question, do I really want to do this? Your Neal appears to be in original "field condition". If you want to hang the proper engine on it and make it seaworthy enough to run around at shows or meets, then you will have to strip away all those years of patina that definately add value to this classic old hull.

If your thoughts are to fix it up and maybe sell it as a restored antique you may find that the buyers who would pay the most, don't want any restorations done since most of them have their own ideas just what "restoration" is. You must remember, if all you do is clean it up and be happy with that, you always have the option to restore it. If you strip it now, that option is gone forever.

[carterhenderson]

Hello. I have listed my '50's Neal Hydroplane on eBay - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270175324640

The hydro looks exactly like the one pictured in this thread.

Feel free to forward the link to anyone who might be interested. I am in Tampa, Florida - if you want to send someone by on your behalf to check it out please contact me. Please let me know if you have any questions. -Carter

[Tomtall]

Your e-bay link isn't there anymore.:confused:

[carterhenderson]

Hi everyone. My hydro is back on eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270178202706&ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:US:1123

My first auction was removed because eBay claimed I did not list it properly and was circumventing some of their fees. I have received some reassurance that I have listed in properly now. If you know anyone who is interested please forward them the link. Let me know if you have any questions. -Carter:)