Trying to build E-Mod 44 merc. Need advice on water flow using Bayer Exhaust Pipes and filler. Any info would be appreciated but a diagram with circles and arrows would be best.
Thanks
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Trying to build E-Mod 44 merc. Need advice on water flow using Bayer Exhaust Pipes and filler. Any info would be appreciated but a diagram with circles and arrows would be best.
Thanks
Doug Kay has done a number of water cooled filler blocks and Merc 44 cooling system for me over the years. I have a couple photos of my last 44 that he has done for me. If you need his contact info let me know.
Alan
I have contacted about Brinkman manuals several times. But they are not available. Just thought someone could help since the season is upon us. I guess I'll have to concentrate on Super-E till later. Thanks for the response.
Hal
Hal:
Is that a Merc 650 triple in your photo?
Jeff
49 cu. in. OMC on Bass tower and G/C
Nope! Looks like this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastjeff57
Hey Seaward,
You might want to give Tim Kurcz a call. He's building a mean 444 (4-carb, 44 cu.in.) that we only got to run once last year. Doug Kay has also built a version of this motor for Alan & David. We don't have a lot of experience with these yet, but the potential certainly seems to be there. This year certainly ought to be interesting.
Roger
Great photos!
I guess I'm not the only one dying for Spring to get here!
Jeff
Read this a couple times before jumping in, I would not want you to wreck your pipes or your block by doing something drastic. Just an FYI.
Get a NEW set of pipes from Dudley, take the filler block to a machine shop cut two 1/4" fillets in each long side as close to the ends as you can get it, then cross drill to join the two cavities (use your head on drill size the walls are thin between the port windows I think I drilled three a larger hole in the center and two smaller holes on each end between the 1-2 and 3-4 port windows). Then get two 3/16 plates welded on to the filler block to cover the radius grooves you had cut (make sure and drill and trap a 1/8" NPT hole in the plates one on the plug side that lines up at the top of the radius in the center and then one on the crankcase side that lines up with the bottom of the front radius. Pressure test for leaks once this is all done.
Drill your block at the corresponding location for the spark plug side filler block hole to line up with and then drill your stack plate for the crankcase side hole in the filler block to line up with.
Then thread a 90 degree elbow and a straight ext that will exit about 2" out of the stack plate and then thread a sraight 1/8 brass ext pipe into the plug side filler block hole so it will extend through the hole you drilled in the block.
There are 5 water passages on the back side of the block (where you drilled the hole for the pipe to come through) Use a center punch Mark the center of those passages with the center punch on the back side of the block keeping the marks in a straight line from top to bottom (drill and tap these holes then thread angle fittings into the top and bottom holes and T fitting into the others and connect them all together (you will need to twist the T's a little to get the hoses on then straighten them after. I seal them with mechanics wire (like a lockwire on a merc magneto)
Bed your filler block with your preferred method after port matching, polishing etc... Now take the block and get that whole exhaust side PLANED FLAT.
I use stock water feeds into the engine block if you are going to feed externally into the engine, than in the stack plate on the bottom rear up about .5" you will see that the stack plate has a dimple that the sticks out that will line up with a larger passage in the engine block mark the center of that passage in the center of that dimple on the stack plate drill and tap it for a 1/4" NPT fitting and thread in a female elbow hence you can thread a straight hose barb fitting in later to attach your water feed line. Tighten up the female fitting that it is NOT protruding through the stack plate and is perfectly flush with the mating surface.
Then install your stack plate on the whole mess, the piss holes that are in the plate currently are just fine YOU do not need anymore then that.
Mount your stack plate take the existing motor's water outlet and plumb that with a hose onto the fitting you have protruding out the rear of the block at the top rear side. Then take another piece of hose about 3" long cut one end on a 45 degree and put it on the from bottom pipe coming out of the stack plate and this is your new pee hole (That you can see quite easily while under power)with a water cooled filler block. but your filler block will have a little time to expand with heat before seeing any water as the rest of the block will get filled first.
If you are using external water feed rather than the factory inlets you can plug the exiting inlets the only problem with that is the water has no way to drain out of the block when the heat is over so with that said make sure you have a couple holes in your top plate on the tower to allow the xcess water out, and yes some water will drain out back through the lower unit but your feed is now above the bottom of the block so that water will sit in the bottom water jacket until you force more through or get rid of it.
Good Luck.
Regards,
Dave