Has anybody tried velocity stacks? Can you let me know how they worked?pros and cons
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Has anybody tried velocity stacks? Can you let me know how they worked?pros and cons
I have one on my motor. As far as I know this is the intake component on the carburator, like an air horn. It helps to aid in densifying the air entering the carburator as well as making the induction thereof more efficient and is worth having. I have heard people relate this term to a straight open pipe exaust as well. All that does is relieve exuast back pressure and is extremely loud if that is what your referring to. It increases power a good bit but may need high speed carb jetting or adjustment.Quote:
Originally Posted by tyst67
By the way, I saw the boat you just built on the 1/4 plywood boat design. It looks great. You built a very nice boat, well made! I just posted a few picks of the one that I built on that thread just now if you or anyone would like to take a look later on.
Thank you very much! The boat you built is beautiful! I love the finished wood! I'd like to try building one like that! How much does the boat weigh
Thank you! I thought you would like it. Ive probably drove a few people nuts on this forum talking about it so much, LOL. She weighs just under 120. That would be about 205lbs with the Yamato-80 motor on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by tyst67
Wow that's light!!! How thick is the wood on the bottom and the sides! What did you use on the bottom for smoothness! My boat was 175 lbs for the maiden voyage and I weigh 200 and the motor 164!
I used 1/4 inch AB plywood all over it. I just used 1x2 and 1x4 spruce for the slices, cross sections, and stringers. I built it on the floor of my garage. I used shimming to make sure that everything was perfectly true without any twist or a-symmetry. The boat was built around the transom/cockpit box while upside down that served as a jig itself. I never drew any plans for it. I just built it slowly and carefully, eyeballing every thing done along the way. The finish is not fiberglassed. I considered such option though, but really did not need it. The bottom was trued up using filler/primer along with consistant sanding to identify any warpage so as to make a perfectly flat surface. It is coated with six layers of enamel. The top is stained and covered with 5 layers of marine deck varnish. I made the steering bar and steering drum. The steering drum is made of layers of plywood cut with a hole-saw and sanwiched together with resin. The steering drum was then covered with fiberglass to make a strong durable piece and fastened through to the steering wheel. I also made a (flush-out) plug for the Yamato 80 engine. I took a bolt of equal thread demensions as the brass plug it has and bored it thru end to end. I then took the hollowed bolt and fixed it into a water-hose attachment. It works well and the motor can be flushed without running it! The turn fin is a bottom type from Glen-L company. I had to edge it and polish it as well as have it milled to true it up. It was a sand cast piece. The fin is placed about 28 inches from the bottom of the transom end to the rear of the fin. It is then placed left of the center between the center and where the chine meets the bottom. I guess its what they call a roll-up type for now.Quote:
Originally Posted by tyst67
It is a fine piece of work and I appreciate how much hard work goes into it! I put fibreglass on my bottom but I have problems with I tracking and lifting! Let me know how the enamel holds up!
I have used exterior house paint both in oil base as well as latex after priming on the few fishing boats I built over the years. I used exterior enamel once on a plywood boat bottom. They all do well if you take the boat out of the water after every use and store it in a dry place. It will chip or wear off just a bit as time goes by, but with a bit of sanding and a quick touch up, it will be good as new after it cures for a day or so. You have to be careful about dragging it on the trailer runners though during launch and retreival. As long as the runners are covered with a soft non abraisive material and/or has soft well functioning rollers, it will be fine for a long time. Overall, it is easy to maintain as renewing and inexpensive. Much easier to complete a build with for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by tyst67
a few mates over here have tried them ,they seem to work on a full modd motor,but if its pretty stock they just look cool.Quote:
Originally Posted by tyst67
that's just my 2 cents.
if I could get some for my motor i'd bolt them on.
the stacks in pic are worth 2 jet size increase on modfied 45ss along with rest of intake system mods.Quote:
Originally Posted by tyst67
tuned length of reed valve two stroke is measured from tip of reeds to end of velocity stack.
TSR used to sell the tuned length software and showed effecive and peak rpms for diffrent lengths.
there are alot of things that can be adjusted to help intake SYSTEM. just putting on some aftermarket reeds really isnt all that:rolleyes: