:D :D :D Hope you guys have fun.. That boat won't even know there is an extra 105 lbs when it's ready to go.. GOOD LUCK.;)
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:D :D :D Hope you guys have fun.. That boat won't even know there is an extra 105 lbs when it's ready to go.. GOOD LUCK.;)
If the air-traps do not go all the way to the transom, then it was done to spill the air quicker. The boat could possibly have a lot of lift in it which would carry more air all the way to the back with full air-traps. I used to have a Z-Craft, which is known for having a lot of lift, and ran CSH with it. The boat would pack a lot of air picking up both the nose and the back end of the boat making it difficult to turn because nothing was in the water when I got to the turn. I cut off the back 9" of air-trap and it spilled enough air to settle the back end of the boat enough to make it handle better down the straights and turns.
Indirect steering takes the torque from the motor out of the steering allowing the driver to turn the steering wheel easier. Usually this is done with larger engines but everyone has their thing. I use indirect steering in my CSR, CSH, and 20SSH and would not go back to direct. Just be sure you use a 5" steering hub when using indirect steering and a 3" steering hub when using direct steering. If not, then the steering will become dangerous.
Good luck and have fun!
I guess it still doesn't make any since to me.:confused: When I had a lift problem we made the sliders at the front to spill the air. The air traps all the way to the rear picked the tail up. Spilling it at the front took away lift. Seems like if you spill at the rear it makes more lift because you would be packing it all in the nose.
I don't disagree, I'm just :confused:
In theory, you are correct, however when I cut my air-traps the nose did not ride any higher. It simply settled the back end making the boat more driveable.
Joe: Thanks for the steering tips. That might exlpain why Kevin put it on it's deck, the original steering hub was a 5" Nydahl with a spring loaded friction nut on the back. We got a plastic 5" hub from Dale Bishop and installed that. Once I get the steering bars dialed in we can play with what works best for her. Personally, I like cables to run direct in a smaller powered boat, or, as fast as we can turn the boat without creating hernia like symptoms. Viewing KT from when she drove Jeff Connant's C, it was direct, and we both have said had it been a reduction system, she would not have locked in a hard left turn and could have controlled the boat better. I have often thought about using Ride Guide steering on smaller boats. In a hydro I can see where the 6-12 extra pounds could be an issue, but for the most part, you have a far safer method to steer, and in the event of a hand grenaded boat, that cable would cut through your neck like steering cable will do. Correct me here, but I think that's what Jimbo got across his adams apple when he had his wreck.
Anywho, thats again!
I ran the 5'' on all my boats. On the 3cyl. Super E I ran inderect and everything else direct. The reason for inderect on the SE was the big power I didn't need to turn the wheel as much also I blew it over runnin direct because I made a slight but sudden correction that changed the attitude and picked up one sponson, not a good idea around 90 mph. When we changed to inderect I could make a slight mistake like that no problem. I liked the direct in the rest of my stuff because I could just tighten down on the tention nut to take away the torque but I still had fast response in the steering. I think you will find that in the smaller classes the boats tend to run more in a tight pack and faster steering can help when you get to turn one and there are 12 of you all there at the SAME time looking for a lane. The bigger boats don't turn as well due to the speed and size as well as drivers give alittle more and tend to have more respect for the speed and the dangers involved.
Anyway, I'll stop jabberin now..;)
Has anyone got a picture of how the throttle linkage of an OMC A goes with cable? I got a pretty good idea, but, a picture is worth 4000 words!
Try this.http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/9610/img2789hy5.jpg
Ed Runne sells the complete conversion kit for A carbs. It includes linkages, bell crank, T-post etc. I think they are about $100. Well worth the minor investment. BTM- Brown Tool and Machine has the steering bars. Pony up for a new gearcase, chances are you will not find a used one. People know what they are worth and since they were unubtanium for a while, they are less likely to part with them.
i crash the a hydro because i was in a hurry to race it. we had the set up all wrong 4 me and it took me the hole river to turn that thing. not a big fan of indirect steeling. the boat was fast.
kevin
Thanks for the pictures! I have the bellcrank set up thanks to Ron Hill, he needs to tell me how much....And, yep, as soon as I'm done with this PIA client, then the big stuff starts, which will in turn, give me the needed $$$ to buy the pieces for the gearcase, and a prop or 5..... I'm also going to get a set of rings and deglaze the holes. It's got good compression, but, the rings are original..
Kevin:
Sorry if I got the story twisted, I knew it was steering, and or set up you were having issues with...We are just grateful to have the boat and I got a little girl, well not so little any more burning to get out and play before Parker in a few weeks.