And sorry to be nit picky, but by definition, I don't think you would call it a butt weld if you run a bead in the corner of a piece of angle.
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And sorry to be nit picky, but by definition, I don't think you would call it a butt weld if you run a bead in the corner of a piece of angle.
I've got a CMC fixed plate made out of 3/8 |_| shaped 6061-T6 aluminum. It's rated for up to 225 hp so it'll never break. And 6061 is readily weldable using 5356 3/32 or 1/8 TIG rods. But they don't need welded. Going to drop it and get a new CMC manual jack plate 5" with a BA-130 5" break away plate for logs and what not. Put my 60 on a friends 1648 War Eagle today and it drove like I stole it. No porpoise, get all the trim I wanted and it ran 4 mph faster as well as rev limiting. Need a 12.5 X 20 semi from Ron and Ill be ready to rock!! Thanks for the help!
well if you a plate already why not just make it adjustable yourself or add a bit more setback to it with spacers !!!
what prop was you using on the war eagle 1648 and is the boat lighter than yours ?
was the total weight around the same as when testing your own boat ?
what revs did the limiter come in at ? thats a very big deal to know the revs.
by the way take no notice of the nobs who dont know about jack plates and breakages,they obviously dont understand
what an ebngine falling off the back of the boat is.
Or what metal fatigue is or cracked alloy looks like.
hope you get the prop your after, but ron will need to know your revs to get you the best prop !!!!!!!!
phill
I think mine is rated for a 150hp motor and have seen plenty of 150 motor bolted to it without a problem, only real concern is to put big enough washers on the inside so it won't pull through the transom but if you feel you need to add more wait to the transom and weigh that sucker down even more then go ahead but don't complain about why you're going so slow.
so does this mean that nobody on this thread has seen jack plates that have busted open ???????
well i know what ive seen and also seen secondhand advertised that need re-welds.
as for chris 3298 if you read again what i wrote ill only be using a very heavy steel jack plate for testing.
im not gonna spend a fortune on buying a jackplate to find its not gonna make much difference to how i use the boat.
but i will test without a plate then test with one, there is definitely no way a plate will pull away as fast, so i do
expect to lose a bit on hole shot..
ill test and post results.
and ill dig out a few pics of broken plates for ya.
phill
down here in the south,i've seen some big horse power on small jackplates rated for about 150 h/p. if a 260 merc with a 200 shot of nos, wont break a small jack plates,don't think a 70 h/p can hurt it.of coarse common sense say's u got to have a washer large enough to keep the bolt from pulling thru the transom. anything is possible and someone can tear up anything.
The CMC plates are all aluminum 6061 extrusions. No welds anywhere on it to stress corrosion crack or break. But I'm sure there are a few others that are welded. Just depends on who welded it ! I've got a fixed CMC jack plate and it can be had brand new for 100 bones.
A jackplate usually helps with holeshot by placing the motor further behind the boat and giving it more leverage. And why try a heavy steel jackplate in place of an aluminum even for just a short period of time. You might as well throw some dumbells under your seat too.
I'd recommend making a steel jackplate out of some channel and I-beams instead of angle. You sure wouldn't want to lose that 60 omc over some weak materials.