I going to build a new tower for one of my Polaris motors . It's wet and cold out so "outside work" is on hold for a bit .
If there are any "interested " parties , I'll do a step-by-step with pictures
and detailed explaination .
Will
Printable View
I going to build a new tower for one of my Polaris motors . It's wet and cold out so "outside work" is on hold for a bit .
If there are any "interested " parties , I'll do a step-by-step with pictures
and detailed explaination .
Will
Sounds like fun ... let's go:)
:cool:
I haven't done this sort of thing before , so you all will have to bear with me on this . Today I'll root through the back corner and dig out the raw material for this and see if I can get some pics of where I'm starting and what I'm starting with .
Will
After a couple hours of rooting around , I think I have all the pieces I'm going to need for this . 5/8" plate , 3/16" plate , clamps , pivot and a motor.
My usual go at these is to just start sawing and kind of let nature take it's course . Since I'd like this to be somewhat "understandable" , I'll have to make a few changes in my MO . One thing I have to do is get a hold of another
saw ( I did buy a new skilsaw this summer but since I'm doing a re-model , I'd rather use one that's "dedicated and sacrificial " to do this . ) I figure a used saw will make about a dozen of these before it packs up . If you were a little more cautious and thoughtful than I am , you would get quite a bit more life out of them than I do .
The next order of business is to root through the house and find the tools I'll need to do the lay out ( I know that my tri-square and carpenter square are in here in here some where !)
Building one of these is really pretty simple ( for me , anyway ) The most difficult part of this for me will be the ..... ummmm....... presentaton .
Any input on that subject would be highly appreciated .
Thought I'd start with materials and tools ? ( when I find them.Should charge my camera batteries too)
Will
This is what starting out with . The piece of plate on the left is 3/16 for the sides , the piece on the right is 5/8 for the motor mount and L/U mount .
The motor is one of my "Johnny Cash" specials assembled from a variety of my best used pieces . Air cooled bottom end and a "gifted " L/C top end with some suggested porting . I've done this before and it was one of the best runners I've had before it went lean at the end of the Kilos and burned off the BIG end of the rod on the top hole. The tower-clamps are from my first effort so I've got a sort of head start . It worked OK with the exception of having enough deflection betwixt the motor and L/U to be really hard on couplers and input shafts . When I get the layout done , I'll post that .
Will
This is the "initial ( ?) rough lay out . It's kind of strange looking but the camera wouldn't pickup the scribed lines , hence the blue tape .
The pieces are slightly over finished size at 6"X19" for the 350 and .......
6"X25" for the 500 ( That's right, a 500 Polaris triple ) The L/U plates are
the same size at 4 3/4"X10". The side plates are roughly sized and will have
to be "custom " fitted and cut to final shape after the L/u plate is in it's proper place .
The first order of business is to cut out the rough pieces . That's the easy part . The hard part will the finished plate . I'm pretty finicky and if I had my "druthers " , I'd be hauling this stuff off to the machine shop and have them machine it to my specs but "Mr. bank account " is telling me to go buy a cheap saw and a decent blade and spend a few days filing and checking and filing and checking some more until I run out of patience or it's "good enough" to satisfy my critical eye . So.............................
I'm off to fight my way through the busiest shopping day of the year ......
Will
I have the parts " rough cut " and drilled except for the side plates . I'll leave them pretty much as is till I'm ready to mount the motor cause I want to run them as high up as I can get them . Will "cut to fit " when I get them in position . I drilled the foot plate to accept a 302 or Bass ( new style with the pivot pin in the foot ) . That way if I ever get one of these to make enough power to eat a 302 foot , I have another way to go . ( Thanks to Sid for the pattern .)
I just had to "sort of " assemble it to see how much filing it was going to take to get everything to bolt up . HOLY MOLEY ! I can't beleive it but NONE . Everything fits like it's supposed to and lines up ( lay out is EVERYTHING )
The next order of business will be to go over to my friend's place for a little tool abuse to do the final sizing and finish before all the drilling and tapping . Since the front plate AND foot plate are layed out on a center
line , the only real critical issue is to get the centers lined up and square .
I'm cheating in comparison my usual M/O . Along with my other "stone age tools " I making use of a table saw and a jointer . ( very , very light cuts and it comes out great)
Will
Nice work! What class will this engine be racing in?
It's a legal 350 PRO motor . The crank case and igniton are from a fan cooled unit and the top end is from a liquid cooled . Both 340cc Polaris . I have a few things I'm going to try on this one to make it a little more "user friendly".
At the moment , the ignition is ET but CDI will fit right on . Normally they run 36mm Mikuni round slides . I'm going to adapt HD Tillotsons (1 1/2" bore).
I run these on gas at 40:1 Power Punch 2 stroke oil . There are some who frown on this but then the only thing I ever tried to run on alcohol was
me and after several severe "burn downs" , I had to cut way back on the percentage . Beside that , I "know " what the parameters on gas are and it's available on "any corner" USA . These things are inexpensive ( cheap) and there are thousands of them gathering dust in barns and basements .
I was going to do up a 500 but that's on hold till I "see" why it won't turn
( RATS , I knew I should've put in the closet )
When I finish the tower , I'll do a write-up on the motor if there's any interest in that ?
Will
Don't tell me you are giving up in the clutch????
Or did I not see it??
Cool pieces!!!!
Where is your OLD Polaris 350????
No , I'm not giving up on the "Old " one . I'ts the most reliable thing I have despite running 3 laps of the final heat at DePue ( 2004) with the pick-up hose dangling in the wind and getting so bloody hot I couldn't touch it for over an hour . Forgot to re-torque it before we ran at Lawrence . In spite of that oversight , it made testing on Friday( low 80s with me in it ) and almost 2 heats ( collision in turn 1 between Bill Diamond and my brother ) before I noticed that it was missing a nut on one of the head studs . Blew a head gasket but that's pretty much it . The bores look wonderful despite all the abuse .The "old" one was direct drive to begin with so it's an easy thing to upgrade to on this . Just have to have the cash to buy the parts .
If someone would buy my Dodge .............. I could pay for my teeth AND do this up with a clutch .
Since it's snowing like crazy now and my friend isn't home today( he won't let me abuse his tools without supervision) , I'm going out to shop and pull the top off the "new" motor and drill the pulse ports I'll need to run those Tillotsons and do some "thinking" about the adapters I need to turn them so I can get the linkages lined up .
Will
My two teeth were $2,300...and now that I ain't got no job, that came out of my racing budget!!!!
Dodge?? What year??? Put that SUCKER on E-Bay...Sold everything but my Sleek....
Do they run 350 Runabout at DePue??? I could borrow Dave Mayer's DeSilva...and run your old Polaris!!!!!! Chad knows how hot motors get without water......He blistered his hand on our Parker V-6......That baby was hot for two days after the race....and Chad is still "HOT" about the gearcase coming loose!!!!
So, the clutch is after you get her running????
Thanks for the feedback Will. Sounds like a very interesting project. I'm anxious to see it done.
Will,
Your new Tower project looks great. To me the most interesting part, is that your making it with hand tools. Do the layout with a scale, scribe and punch it by hand, cut it out on a band saw and drill all the holes. And as you know if the powerhead to Gearcase alignment is not correct. The tower will shake itself apart and then crack. And its tough on gears.
On my newest tower desing I start with a solid Billet of Aluminum 4" x 6" x 11" long . The blank Starts at 17lbs, then 4 hours of machining later it weighs 6lbs. But I use the Haas drill press with power steering, so its load and go.
My Bridgeport Mill is mostly used an anchor. it make a mess on the floor, and makes too much noise, I cant hear the big screen. keep up the good work
Best Regards
Lee Tietze
Machined Components
Aluminum, Try Racing Without It!
I rough these out with a skil saw about an 1/16" outside the scribe lines to start . On the first ones LOTS of hand work to get them straight and square and get the finished edge "acceptable" . Started the same way on this but I experimented some and found that I could run it through the table sawQuote:
Originally Posted by Lee Tietze
and come out square , straight and paralell with a finish that only needs a minor amount of "dressing up " and if I really want to go nuts , through the jointer for a "machine shop" finished edge .
Since the line up is so critical that's why I do these on center-lines .
As long as the center-lines match and the foot and front plate are square and perpendicular ( and your crank center stand-off is right )
you're "in em " . I've only had one gear case problem when one of my first efforts ate up a couple and in-put shaft . And... These are mechanically fastened for several reasons . They "buzz" pretty hard and welds BREAK .
During assembly , if you screw up a little , you can adjust for your mistake
without having to make a whole new piece ( unless you REALLY...........)
Last but not least ... They look pretty cool ( all those screws )
( heavy sigh and lots of wishful thinking + smiling and chuckling ) I can help you out on the messy floor and noise issue . I "think" my S-15 will pack that Bridgeport and I wouldn't mind not being able to hear the .......Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Tietze
Will
WILL, i have the middle of next week open all day 12/6, 12/7, 12/8. I'd like to come over and watch you work on the tower and talk a little prop. what is the best day to come over, the day that you will be doing a little of everything measure, cut , hammer, drill, the whole works. send me an e-mail with your address, i can drive the first the first 129 miles but once i get within 1 mile or less i make a wrong turn. Indiaola right. send me street address and best day. see ya later steve
I am really enjoying your writeup on you making up this hybrid. The cost involved being so economical I can see the word "heresy" :) , "tar" :) and "feathers" :) on some other engine builder's and owner's lips though there is no sound, their lips are still moving! LOL!
I can sure remember the days of the Tillotson HDs on the JLOs and Hirths and the freeair 2 strokes of the 1970s snowmo development period. A pair of them seemed big enough to swallow the driver behind them! and that sucking noise!! Hungry for fuel/air even on a 340! ;)
I can sure remember the days of the Tillotson HDs on the JLOs and Hirths and the freeair 2 strokes of the 1970s snowmo development period. A pair of them seemed big enough to swallow the driver behind them! and that sucking noise!! Hungry for fuel/air even on a 340! ;)[/QUOTE]
Since I can't abuse my friends tools till Sunday , thought I'd finish up on my carb adapters and pulse ports . Pretty straight forward for the ports , drill down through the flange right through the sleeve .( I did this after the adapters were roughed out and mounted so the block port to adapter port matched exactly) Then notch the sleeve up to the hole . The adapters were pretty simple too . Layout the bolt holes and the center hole ( I used the drill press and an 1 1/2" hole saw for that )
drill and tap for carb studs , drill and counter sink the mount holes . Then cut a groove in the carb face for the pulse port .
We'll just see if these monsterous things will work out .
Sort of "off topic" but this is the motor that will go on this tower but then sometimes these threads have a life of their own.
Will
Will, you told me you find these motors on E-Bay, sometimes... Would you tell me the model or size that you are using, maybe I'll buy a few...
As I have told you before, I think you are on to something....
Am I invited to come watch too??? I might come up.....
When we started this Ebay was the source but after some looking ( and getting burnt) I went looking at the snomo sites on the web .
snowmobileswapmeet.com has lots of stuff daily . The Polaris is an
ec34pl ( I think ) 80-81 TXL Indy . Stock rated at 54-56 HP . All the ec34 Polaris motors have the same stroke so you can do a bunch of "mix and match". I have seen whole sleds for $300-500 . The 354 Rotax is probably a better motor because of the rotary valve and I "think" you can spin them a little more . But these work pretty good .
You can come and watch anytime . Any one who wants to can . I have absolutely NO secrets . These are real simple and straight forward ( and inexpensive )
If you to run my "old motor " at DePue on a runabout , you're more than welcome but I think you better get a Krier . I can't believe how awesome those turn .
Will
Dave Mayer has a Krier runabout, but his DeSilva looked more my speed....I'm basically full of it about racing, but maybe.....we could get J. Michael Kelly to drive it...350 Runabout..got to have a CLUTCH though!!!
E-bay too much BS??? I'll check what you posted...or better yet, you find it, I could finance a couple of motors...I've got a 102 gearcase, I think...right, Bill Boyes???
Full of it ! ! ? NAWWWW . I can't beleive anyone could be more twitchyQuote:
Originally Posted by RonHill
than I was when I went DePue ( or any time I get in one ) . If anyone could pull this off , it would be J. Michael but I think he's going to be real busy with something considerably larger .
Been surfing around trying to find info on small fluid couplers . Think they might have some advantages . May be able to get or make one with high
stall speed and wouldn't have a "hard couple" effect . ( reduced impulse loads on the L/U and crank )
Ebay.......hmmmm Sometimes you really don't know what you're getting and most of the time , when you're driven by the "I want that now"
syndrome , you pay more than it's really worth . I've found that if you're patient , things will come to you . I just found another motor for my truck for $100 , the last one I "really" needed was $450+$175 for parts .
If you're serious about about a couple motors ........ PM me at
will350@eskimo.com and we'll talk about it . That goes for anyone else too .
Going to my "friends" house for a tool abuse session . Should have pics of the finished pieces this eve .
Will
These are the finished " ready for assembly " pieces . After some experimentation , we decided to finish cut them on Tom's chop saw .
Four reasons . 1 - The table saw throws chips in your face and ....
when you push it , those little carbide teeth sometimes come off and "in your face " . 2 - The adjustability on chop saw is infinite. 3 - the guard directs all that stuff away from you. 4 - The finish is plenty acceptable for this
I've checked them every way from Sunday and all the measurements check out to as close as I can see ( with 2 pair of glasses ) They're so close to right on and square that assembly will be really easy . Should have the preliminary assembly sometime this week .
Will
Been looking at Ebay too though everyone here has a treasure trove of those engines from older to newest at the dealer level and they compete for at the public insurance salvage auctions they have here every Wednesday like all the rest too. Get a 1 year old sled back end wiped out for about a grand, sell off the peripherals and pretty much get the engine, pipes, carbs or fuel injection for less than half that. Some of the horsepower of the newer sled liquid cool engines take your breath away with over 100 horsepower out of a 440 - 550 CC 2 stroke. That would sure give a centrifical clutch some workout! :)
Some of the horsepower of the newer sled liquid cool engines take your breath away with over 100 horsepower out of a 440 - 550 CC 2 stroke. That would sure give a centrifical clutch some workout! :)[/QUOTE]
I've talked to more than one builder who has told me that the Polaris 340 that I'm running will make 103-104 in all out drag set up . Was told by another that 440 Rotaxes can make close to 120 .
Will
I found some "extra" time this afternnon to get started on assembly .
Pretty straight forward . Clamp it up to get an idea of how everything lines up . Attatch the foot plate first with 1 fastener( it has to be fairly close to final so take your time with this ) , jockey it around till you get the line up , then drill the other 2 holes to tap size. Tap the foot plate , drill the front plate , bolt it up . It "should" be right on , if not , there's adjustment room there . Attach the side plate to the front plate in 3 places FIRST( mark out all the hole positions ) . After you get that done , clamp the foot plate to the side plate and adjust accordingly .
When it's in position mark the holes and drill the last one ( furthest aft)
with your tap drill , disassemble, drill out the side plate and tap the foot
plate . Reassemble to the line up . Now your ready to drill the rest of the holes with the tap drill to the proper depth . Pull it apart,drill out and tap accordingly . De-burr ( If you want to polish , nows the time ) and assemble with screws or bolts of your choice WITH LOCTITE ( I like to use lock washers too ) Now your ready to do the other side . Pretty simple really .
Will
I was going to drill and tap ( lots ) today .......... but....... After I got the first 2 bolts in the other side , I couldn't get it to line up properly . After a considerable amount of checking ( and thinking ) , I found that the front plate has a YEHAWW in it . .020 , or so , right at the lower motor mount holes .
Can't put it together like that. If I did , the line up would wind up twice that far off at the bottom fore and aft . Not a real catastrophy , I'll just take it apart and slide over to my other friends place and press it straight . I'll have to move some of the holes a little but no big deal .
Another one of those little things you take for granted , that a piece of 5/8" plate "will" be flat.
Decided to go with pan head phillips , 3/4"X 1/4-20 , stainless with washers . ( 52 @ $.25 per screw and washer ) . I thought about allen heads
bit the price was double and I know these will be OK .
Guess I'm done for today .
Will
I got the front plate straightened up after a bit of trial and error . I'ts as close as I can get it with what I have . My guess is + or - .0025 .
I drilled the thing with the side plates bolted on with 3 bolts per side to the line up with a tap drill , then pull off the sides , drill the side plate holes to 1/4" and tap the holes in the front and foot plate to 1/4" X 20 ( make sure the holes are deep enough for the screws and run a botton tap in them , I made one from a broken one I had ) Now , you're ready to assemble .
Start at the corner and work your way out toward the ends , alternate sides when you do this ! Don't try to do one side first , you'll be bummed out .
Put one in one side then put the coresponding one in the other side .
AND.... Do the Wilford Brimley thing " check your line up and check it often"
like every screw until you get the foot plate screwed on with the same number of scews up the front plate . It is really surprising how much these will "move" during assembly ( Really ) When I put the screws in , I loctite them and run them in to "hand tight " with a screw driver . Then I use my hammer powered impact and take another 1/3-1/4 turn to get them tight .
I think any more than that and you'll start to pull the threads .
It turned out a little closer across the motor than I figured but it'll work .
I'm going to have to do some thinking about the ignition coils and the fuel pump location and I have some "finish" work ( it's not a "beauty queen" but I don't want a wad of "pointy" corners either . )
It'll look better when I get the cylinder back on it . Then the "real fun"
begins . ( carb linkage , pump , ignition , steering bars , etc. )
I suppose that I "should" run down and see Sid Bass and see if my pattern
is going to fit his foot too . ( that would be a good idea )
Will
the old 440 rotax's made almost 100hp right out of the factory 25 years ago. And can go from there, they also have the ability too be turned with some serious rpm's for long periods of time. The 440 makes it's peak just under 9000 stock and up to 11000 in race form.
I "could've" been doing my dishes .... or my laundry... or fixing the broken clutch diaphragm in my dirty S-15 ..... But NOOOOO . Ron posts a picture of that shiny OMC tower and all I wanted to do was take off some of the "pointy things" .
Now I have to do "something" with the clamps ( you just CAN'T put this on a set of ugly clamps ) I found something else "interesting" while I was
cogitating ( I think that means staring at something with a blank,really blank in my case lately, mind )
THe Polaris and Rotax bolt pattern are the same but the bolts are different size ( 7/16 vs 3/8). The crank centers are different . So ........ with some bushings and the proper spacers you could run either on this tower .
This could be even better than I thought when I started this .
Will
Are you taking Orders? How much for the clutch? Have you thought about running in Mod? Curiousity gets the best thought sometimes.
RichardKCMo
Well... If some one were to want one of these ? I'd be happy to build one for anybody who would want one . It beats the fool out of what I usually do to make my tax payments.( I used to be able to spend an entire day on a creeper , rolling around under a car or truck but now days it's a different story)Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardKCMo
I'd have to sit down and figure out a fair price for the time and material.
I don't "think" it would astronomical . It would depend on what you wanted in terms of a motor and foot mostly and whether or not you provided them or I had to . I can tell you that , as I remember, my 250 bravo was less than $300 from the flywheel to the prop. The motor was free, the lower unit ( OMC A foot ) was $200 and I can't imagine that I spent more than another $100 for the rest . For the one I'm doing now .......The range on the motor , $300-500 , new Yamato 302 lower unit $700 ( with a nose cone and 9/16 prop shaft and coupler ) clamps , $100 (?) , new material , maybe another $150 .This all just a guess but I would think a "high side" estimate to be right around $1500- 1700 for pieces and roughly the same for my time . ( "I think"
that would be about "right" ? I've never really totaled up what I have in one so there might be something I'm missing )
The clutch cost $175 and that's just for the unit . No drum . I'm going to inquire if they can make the outer segments out of aluminum to help get the engagement speed up . ( 2500-3000 would make a world of difference to the 1600 or so it has now) They make all sorts of different applications for this thing but the operating range for the drums they provide isn't anywhere near what these will turn as they're a centrifugal cast unit . I guess you could try one and hope it would stand up ? You "might" be able to shrink a steel band around it for some "extra" strength ?
As far as MOD goes ........ They never were "real" outboard motors from a production stand point. Trying to create real parity between them and what's there now would make the "AXS vs OMC" and the "Tahotsu-Bass vs Mercury"
thing fade away to nothing in comparison . There are just too many of them
and all with different porting and carburation etc. The inspectors would have to have an entire rolling library to even begin to have enough info . No offense
but those kinds of thoughts could easily get you a visit from the "tar and feathers" brigade . ( Something I would've had long ago if some folks knew where I lived due to my ,ummmm, "attitude". LOL ) These are basically an APBA PRO motor on gas . They're not real competitive in 350cch ... But then
they don't cost an appendage or 2 , They are REALLY reliable , 100 mph is well within the realm of possibility and one "could" blow up 8-10 of them for the cost of one new PRO power head . With more "investment" in R&D , I think
you could get real close to the guys on top . ( but then what the heck do I know?) They'd be a dandy lakeracer , say a 700cc twin with electric start , a clutch and "muffled" . That could leave some serious stains in your driving
suit.
If anyone does want to ............... send me an email and we'll talk about it .
Will
Will,
I will polish the clamps and ship them back, for free...Just because you've written a great article...and you've inspired me to build a 45 MID section.....
The new Rotax 1000 twin is about 170 hp with over 150ft/lbs of torque on premium gas it has sdi fuel injection with two 52mm dry throttlebodies would make a nasty lake or 1100 engine..
Now that is one nasty looken 2 cylinder Rotax arite! At 160 HP on 2 cylinders I can only wonder what set of gears are gonna take 80 HP a side? How will they, those gears wear? :)
GOOD GRIEF !!! That's more HP & torque than my pick up has and.......
Those throttle bodies have sent me off on another tangent of thought that I've been trying to suppress . Dog gone you Ken , It's good thing I didn't see this last night or I wouldn't have slept at all .
Lately , I've had a couple of rigs show up with EFI . Normally , I don't touch those things because I try to stick to things I understand and the first time I "touched" one , it turned into a 3 week ordeal . I DID win ( finally ) .
Anyway, It got me to thinking about a very simple EFI set up for a "racing only" application . Since this doesn't have to have a whole big bunch of "driveability" (80-90% at WOT ) it shouldn't have to be as sophisticated as a set up that has to start and idle AND have excellent response through out the entire range ( + run 100,000 + miles ) I "think" you could do it with a minimum of inputs,say TPS , EGT , RPM . So far I've been told that you can "sort of" control an electronic injector with a square wave generator with an amplifier .
You'd need a enough PSI for the injector . The "mechanical" part of this is fairly simple but the "electronic" end is way beyond me . Are there any wizards here that would "know" ?
ENOUGH OF THAT ! ! ..........( Ken , you're a "bad" man )...................
Ron,Thanks for the offer, but I think I've come to my senses or back to earth...or something . Clean is plenty good for this.
AND..... Where would you find a lower unit that would even begin to deal with the impulse loads that WILL generate ? This is one of those things where a fluid coulper would really help to stretch out the "time to load" . I DO have a few other thoughts on a drive that "might" handle that but if I carry on with them in public , in my minds eye I can already see a crowd gathering armed with pitch forks , torches and arm loads of wood ........ Chanting burn ,
burn , BURN THE HERETIC ! ! Coventional is NOT my middle name and since I really don't want to go on the run , I'll just be quiet ( about that ) and try to stay focused on ........? (Rats ! )
Will
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7500Blizzard
I'm "cleaning up" so before I stash things away , I thought I'd take couple pics so you can see the progession from where I started to now .
From right to left , the first one that ran a 250 Yamaha Bravo single made out of aluminum channel and 3/16" sides ( I ran this for 3 years before the "need" got to me) . The first Polaris 340 tower . Originally this had a F/C
340 on it but when we started running L/C , it ate up couplers and input shafts . Double the HP made it deflect through the center . ( It is kind of skinny ) The Polaris clutch unit . There are 2 sets of mount holes . One for the Polaris and one for a 440 F/C Arcti Cat Kawasaki ( I couldn't get it run on end but I didn't try very hard either )
The "fish scaley" looking thing is under my "un-run" 125 . The wide fat one is under the Wankle. Both these were done with 1/2" and 1/8" on the sides .
The Wankle has been run for roughly 30 minutes in testing and doesn't appear to have any problems with construction or materials .
The last one.................... the new project . Clean IS just fine .
I'm going to have to do some "cutting" on those shiny sides to get to the fuel pump pulse port and maybe the other side too to clear that side for some "Rotax" things but it's moving along .
It's easy to see that the basic idea hasn't changed much .
Will
Took a few days to make my Dodge into better driver because my dirty S-15 broke (1 out of 2 isn't too bad) ......
It's starting to look more complete . Final mount on the carbs and fab the throttle linkage . I decided I'd put a "main" pump on it. If you look , you can see where I'm going to have to gouge out a little piece on the tower to clear the fuel pump mount . That part on the end of the cable underneath the pipe will get screwed to the pivot .
The throttle cable from the boat will be anchored with 2 short pieces of 5/16" fuel hose clamped over the housing and I'll make a connector .
If I had 2 velocity stacks the same ................( If someone were to have another one of the "shiny" aluminum ones for an HD Tillotson, you could
"send " it to me . I'd be "good" about it.)
The pipe is just tied on and propped up ( pun intended) for now. This is a stock pipe . I've run them in this spot before but up a little higher . I have another one with an extra 1 1/2" that swings around underneath . The stock one is about 5 mph faster @ 80+ on a long (1 1/4 mile) than the "tuck under"
and I have 3 otherS ( 2 twin sets and another single off a 400cc Polaris,we'll get to those after I make it run)
Steering bars and drive shart are next . Then , when that's all fit up , I'll take it down , make it "purty" , reassemble and "see" if it'll run . That might be interesting . This is made from a pile of extra used parts that were stashed in various corners and a "gifted" barrel from Carl Lewis that's been ported(a little by me, a little by some else, a little more by me ........... I haven't the faintest idea how this is going to be ? ! ? ??)
Stay tuned .
Will
A friend of mine north of here has a vintage / collectors Merc 440 Twister Air Cooled with 2 Tillotson HDs and velocity stacks. For him, tunning is real simple! One turn open on the high speed needle and leave it alone! One and one quarter turn on the Low speed needle and leave it alone. Asked him about temperature variations and his answer was leave them needles alone, but that is for below freezing temps! How much less needle value turnout for say 80 degrees F? Gotta be some change to lean out a bit you would think? :) Asked him about Merc's use of Walboro carbs? He had a pained term for them! Yeeeech! :mad: