Set Up Help 11' Tunnel

**MN1** · 10-26-2010

Brian & Bob,
When the test session was over there was talk of coming up to Detroit Lakes, MN with SST-60s and the Sport C and maybe a SST-120.

We still have more testing to do, but the boat seems to be much safer and easier to drive than before.
Mostly because we slowed the power trim down to where you don't have to use super man quick reflexes with your trim finger. Increased cockpit height by lowering the driver and moved steering up and out from around the feet.

Oh yes, set up help. Well, it was turning close to 7500 rpm before Sam let off. Since the motor only had 15 minutes break in time.The motor sat for about about 6 years before being started last weekend. The motor was flat on the transom, about 1/2" lower than what we ran before. The boat now sits very level in the water. No under trim is needed to get on plane now.
Mark

**OUTBOARDER** · 10-27-2010

Originally Posted by OUTBOARDER

If it is a stock 40 hp I would suggest 6 part swaps to make it a 50hp.
and 2 more after that to make it equivalent to 45ss = 62 hp.

1. 50/60 hp carbs (1.5" dia throats)
2. 50/60 hp reed cages(stop height was different in some models 50 vs 40).
3. 50/60 hp cyl head smaller dia chamber with less cc's.
3a. mill 50 head for .515 chaber depth = 45ss spec.
note: milling 40hp head IS NOT the same.
4. set timing to 21degs(you can run more but 21 is a good place to start)
5. make a cowbell tuner
6. make sure power pack does not have rev limiter.

1-5 = about 62 hp @ about 6,200 rpms on pump gas

1987 is a good block and hp won't fall off significantly until 7,200 rpms that will put you in
low 50's with stock OMC original 21 p (made for 50twin has extra cup from factory to run engine a litte higher on the transom)

after that see Ron for a prop and he will get you dialed in

13x25DAH worked great on V-Bottom with 1986 60hp.
The Scat Cat has Stock 1992 lost foam block and could not swing it.
Does mid 40's with Stock 21P OMC prop & 150lb driver.

Let me know how your testing goes?