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Thread: Tri Hull racing, would love build photos,info, etc

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    Default Tri Hull racing, would love build photos,info, etc

    I know there are other threads going with tri hull racing info, if this needs to be merged into one of those please let me know and/or move it to the proper place

    while I know that there is no tri hull racing out here on the left coast I've always really liked the tri hulls and would like to see how people who are racing them are building their hulls out. there was reference in one of the early tri hull racing threads to a 'tri hull racing 101' but I couldn't find it

    anyhow, lots of questions but would love to see any photos showing the inside of the hull, how stripped out it is, seating, steering reconfig, cage mounts, fuel tank locations, etc would be great. what sort of foam are you using on the sides? are you leaving a floor in, or just mounting the seat on the stringers? what kind of seat? don't need your secrets or special mods, just looking to get in the ballpark.

    for those that are using the older hulls - are you glassing over the open bows on the glastrons to close them up? if so, how are you doing the layup?

    I've got to get thru finishing up building my Gaylord flatbottom first before taking on another project (but god I love new projects, so hard to stay on one project when the next shiney thing has caught my eye!!), but I'd like to keep an eye out on craigslist for a 16' tri and a motor in the meanwhile. Then build up a hull to go bombing around the delta/melones/pedro/hogan on and learn how to drive it. I just gave away a really nice Glastron v156, was too nice to think about cutting up so I gave it to someone who wanted to use it for their family.

    I saw that the v166 was the model of choice, but what other makes/models might be viable?

    maybe others out here in norcal will get the fever too. appreciate any/all info

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    found this photo while digging around here:



    here are the 2010 OPC rules which will get me close:

    Sportsman Class Formula Tri Hull
    1) Tri Hull Technical Standards
    Max. Total Cu. In. Displacement . . 100 (1638.7cc)
    Minimum Boat Length . . . . . 15’
    Minimum Boat Weight . 1250 lbs. without driver.
    2) Tri Hull Boat Standards (see also Rule 21)
    a) Boats must be original Tri-Hull design, with walk-through windshield, bow rider configuration and a minimum of 15’ length from the bow to the transom at the point of engine attachment. Approved boats: Glastron V-166, Glastron V-156, Galaxy 15 ft., Thundercraft 160-SS, Cain Cutter 16 ft., Invader 15 ft., Phantom, Higgs Craft. All Tri-Hull boats must be approved before being eligible for competition; contact John Schubert at (281) 238-0060.
    b) All APBA General Racing and Safety Rules must be complied with. Kill switches, foot throttles and driver’s seats are mandatory. Motor kill switches (tether, on/off or push button) must be accessible and clearly marked on the left side of the boat. Rollover or gravity kill switches are also required in case the boat is overturned.
    c) All boats will be equipped with a universal roll cage which will include a five-point safety harness and seat. The roll cage must be mounted to the floor or bottom of the boat and will be “U” bolted to a structural brace. The structural brace will be required from one side to the other behind the driver’s seat inside the boat. Its purpose is to provide support for the gunnels and the driver’s cockpit in the event of a side collision. For more information regarding roll cages or to approve boats, contact John Schubert at (281) 238-0060.
    d) Steering will be either rack and pinion or rotary cable. The steering must be in the original dash location front to rear.
    e) Boats must remain intact. Any material on the inside of the gunnels may be removed, with the exception of dash and splash well. The bottom of the boat may be reworked.
    f) All windscreens must be of shatterproof material (Lexan—not Plexiglass).
    g) All boats must contain at least 6 cubic feet of foam flotation permanently attached to the boat. The roll cage must have enough foam flotation permanently attached to it to float it outside the boat.
    h) All boats must have a one- or two-digit number issued by S.P.O.R.T. This number must be placed on each side of the boat. Numbers must be a minimum of 15” high and be on a background of contrasting color so that they may be easily read.
    3) A $2250 “Claiming Rule” is enforced for all officially entered engines. This claiming rule includes the engine, trim system, mounting bracket (jack plate) and propeller exactly as raced. This claim must be made in cash.
    a) A boat may only be claimed by a SPORT member. A boat may be claimed between the final heat and the awards ceremony, or one hour after the final heat, whichever comes first.
    4) Tri Hull Engine Technical Rules.
    a) Engines must not exceed 100 cubic inches in displacement as originally manufactured. A tolerance of 3ci will be allowed for overbore.
    b) Gear cases may be modified; however, low water pickups are not allowed, and the original location of the water pickup must be maintained. Gearcases must be shiftable from the driver’s seat.
    c) All engine exhaust must travel into the downhousing; no open exhaust stacks are allowed.
    5) Fuel must comply with all APBA/OPC rules.
    6) Boats may start running in Neutral, and be shifted into gear, or be in gear and started when the race starts.

    RULE 21 • BOAT STANDARDS
    1. The length is to be measured parallel with the fore and aft centerline from the rear of the transom at the point of engine attachment, to the foremost part of the bow. A tolerance of two inches will be allowed in measuring overall boat length dimensions.
    2. No add-on extensions to the hull will be permitted to achieve class length. Fins are not included in measurement of boat length (see Figure J).
    3. The minimum weights assigned to a specific class shall include motors, steering systems, motor controls, hardware, instruments, and all securely attached cushions, fuel tanks and brackets, batteries and boxes, fire extinguishers, etc. Any fuel remaining in the tanks at the end of the race will be included in the boat weight. Driver’s weight will be included with life jacket and helmet and clothing as raced. No water will constitute any part of the total class weight. All weights other than the driver, engine and its controls, and fire extinguishers, must be fastened in such a manner that their centers of gravity cannot be moved during the race. Except in races of longer than one-half hour duration per heat, only one fuel tank will be allowed. No weights, other than the engine and its controls, may be fastened in locations external to the hull where they may constitute a hazard upon impact with another object.
    4. In questionable cases, acceptability of a given hull shall be the responsibility of the Referee and his decision shall be final.
    5. All boats constructed with false floors, seat box compartment or air filled flotation tanks must be fitted with inspection holes of at least 7/8” diameter such that no point inside said tank is more than 24 inches from inspection hole. These holes may be plugged during competition but must be open for weighing and inspection.
    6. There shall be no devices or arrangements specifically to take advantage of external air pressure to produce or assist planing.

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    try this......there are some pics of the inside under one of the tabs at the top

    www.extremetrihulls.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by hebert51 View Post
    try this......there are some pics of the inside under one of the tabs at the top

    www.extremetrihulls.com
    looked around but couldn't find anything there, have a link/url to the pics?

  5. #5
    Team Member hebert51's Avatar
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    http://www.extremetrihulls.com/extre...ulls/Shop.html

    The pics are under the shop tab, it only shows one boat, most of the guys that race the tri-hulls run a hull built specifically for racing by miffco (john jorewicz)

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