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Thread: Steering cable setup

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    Team Member JohnsonM50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chairman View Post
    We run steering cables direct to the steering arms in our smaller OPC classes: Mini GT (25hp); GT Pro (35hp); and Sport C (40hp). I use 5-inch steering drums on my boats, which makes for very quick steering.

    On the other hand, we use foot throttles in all these classes, so are able to keep two hands on the steering wheel at all times.
    From seeing the clips of the tunnels turning so quickly it makes sense to use direct hi-response steering.

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    Default steering

    I have done it both ways. I races SST-60 and Sport E. Personally I liked direct steering (without the pulleys on the motor bars). I would mention that I typically raced short sprint races and when I raced in marathon situations, I would go back to indirect steering.

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    Rigged the steering up direct today using 1/4" SS flat bar for a motor bar. Even though the hub is very small (it's an old helm I had laying around) it still steers with more response and in a tighter radius than I will ever need to go while at speed. Need to find some SS cable though, all I was able to get my hands on is plastic coated steel zinc plated cable, but I am only in fresh water for now so it will suffice for a short time.

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    Team Member JohnsonM50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ToneDef View Post
    Rigged the steering up direct today using 1/4" SS flat bar for a motor bar. Even though the hub is very small (it's an old helm I had laying around) it still steers with more response and in a tighter radius than I will ever need to go while at speed. Need to find some SS cable though, all I was able to get my hands on is plastic coated steel zinc plated cable, but I am only in fresh water for now so it will suffice for a short time.
    Brown Tool & machine has SS cable & rope for steering. Forgot to mention another way to adjust steer ratio to a small degree is steer bar length.

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    Team Member Chairman's Avatar
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    I forgot to mention: we don't use any springs in our steering systems. Shape and/or postion the steering arms so that the ends -- where the cable attaches -- are in line with the engine's tilt tube. This way, when engine tilt changes, cable tension stays the same.




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    Team Member JohnsonM50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chairman View Post
    I forgot to mention: we don't use any springs in our steering systems. Shape and/or postion the steering arms so that the ends -- where the cable attaches -- are in line with the engine's tilt tube. This way, when engine tilt changes, cable tension stays the same.




    Ive been doing it different, also w/o springs. Aligning the pulley pivot with the steer pin center line instead. This does make the tilt up tight for a second till over center but theres enough flex. On most motors you cant align both tilt & steer exactly. I wonder if in between would be good. On the OMC shown thats about a 4" to 5" difference to split.

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