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Thread: The Bass/Tohatsu D motor!

  1. #41
    Shaken, Not Stirred Cameraboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mercguy
    I remember Phillip DiFebo telling me at the Nat's, that he wanted $2000 for an A motor, MINUS foot!! If you think about it, he has already done the "added" $900 or so of work to the powerhead, so is not really out of line on what an A motor will cost to go fast!

    but, think about this.....in about 5yrs, the Hot Rod A motor will be out there..........prices will sink for the OMC's!

    I have seen Yamato 80/102/302's advertised for sale for around $2000 and have had a hard time selling. But, some of these motors were JUST gone through by either TJ, Goller, Davids, etc, which would add another $800 or so to the price of buying the "stock unopened" motor, which would probably cost around $1500.......so, in the long run, is easily worth the $2000, of which the motor probably sold for around $1700-1800.
    Daren, what Dominic has said on Hydroracer, and what I can comfirm from my own experience, is that Phillip buys junkyard powerheads and builds them up. That's how good he is at what he does. You can pay $2K for one of his motors w/out gearcase, but you still have to have a good hull, and the right props, and test, test, test. And you still might get beat by a $1,700 motor.


    Where are you finding bone stock 302s for $1,500? I want one.
    Mike Johnson

    World Headquarters

    Portland, Oregon USA

  2. #42
    Sam Cullis Mark75H's Avatar
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    well any who, I can't open that file, seemed like Mark 75h tryed to make it easier to open but no luck. so if some ones got a phone nub' to call or some thing, i would like to by one.
    Bass Machine in the BRF Business listings
    Since 1925, about 150 different racing outboards have been made.


  3. #43
    That Tohatsu guy. jeff55vDSH's Avatar
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    Default it's SO fine!

    Just in case there are some folks here who have not yet seen the Bass Machines micro adjustable swivel bracket. Here's a photo of the adjuster.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Jeff Yungen

  4. #44
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    Default Bolt-on Bracket

    Leaving it on the boat is convenient, but there is a method for easy removal. Most boats have a 1/8 to 1/4 metal sheet on the back of the transom. We recommend the sheet be set about 3/8-inches above the top of the transom so as to "catch" the vertical adjustment screws. The engine can be set on the boat without lots of extra help to align the bolts. The same arrangement can be done in the trailer. Set on the transom; align the boltholes, secure with four 1/2-inch bolts. To adjust height, loosen the four bolts and adjust the vertical screws as desired. To adjust the kick-out, loosen the 3/4-inch kick out-bolt and adjust the thrust pad bolt to the desired position. Tighten the 3/4-inch kick-out bolt, maybe 60 foot-pounds. The system is held firmly in the adjusted position.

    Hope this helps,
    Neil Bass

  5. #45
    Team Member Thomasj's Avatar
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    nice looking setup.

    ive been running 50d's in my thundercats for years now.

    We run standard class with minimum mods allowed only to keep costs down. One of these mods is 'welding the crank'. To make the sport cheap and fair, you are better off being preventive than fork out more cash when it lets go.

    We do thrash our beasts a bit more than you circut guys, but even the flat water guys here weld and that goes for yamahas aswell.

    I noticed you don't get the 50D or D2's in the states, im surprised!

    Let me know if someone wants one as I have many mates here who can hook you up (and we speak english)

    Thomas
    tom@goldcoastthundercats.com.au

  6. #46
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    Default diff. in the ones we have.

    Thomas, whats the diff. in what we have here as surplus?
    carburated i think.
    RichardKCMo

  7. #47
    Team Member Thomasj's Avatar
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    I read eariler in this post that you have to import the 50D from japan (is this right?)

    I know for a fact they do not manufacture 50D's anymore(or parts), you can get 50D2's though and the new directinjected 50's.

    Only difference in a 50d to 50d2 is the head, exhaust, jets

  8. #48
    FFX-61
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    that you in that Aquarius, thare Thomasj

  9. #49
    That Tohatsu guy. jeff55vDSH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomasj
    I read eariler in this post that you have to import the 50D from japan (is this right?)

    I know for a fact they do not manufacture 50D's anymore(or parts), you can get 50D2's though and the new directinjected 50's.

    Only difference in a 50d to 50d2 is the head, exhaust, jets
    The Bass/Tohatsu Motor is an M50D2. Which by the way has recently been fully approved by A.P.B.A. for use in the D stock class. Now the motor is ready to go racing in all three major American sanctioning bodies!

    The reason we have to import the powerhead from Japan is because only the fuel injected powerhead is E.P.A. approved in this country.
    (Environmental Protection Agency)
    Bass Machines has recieved a waiver from the E.P.A. to import the M50D2 powerhead (carburated) for racing purposes only.

    I just got my powerhead back from Dyno testing. I look forward to racing it in the spring!
    Jeff Yungen

  10. #50
    Team Member Thomasj's Avatar
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    wow you guys have some tight laws!

    Well, I have a 50D2 forsale right now but shipping to the US would be a killer. $2500 AUD, roughly USD 1,896.55 for complete motor.

    How much is that gear case/trunk/bracket worth? is that off the shelf?

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