Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 70

Thread: Jippe's wetback 10

  1. #11
    Team Member JohnsonM50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Jersey
    Posts
    602
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    The prop #'s probably tell what it is. The Wetback a pal built that Ive driven quite a bit had a tendency to cut the top off a wave & smack the drivers face wickedly. His had traps & was nose heavy. By changing the traps to hold more air & end at the transom, eliminating the heavy front hatch cover for a 1/8 ply cowl & moving the gas tank back it got alot better & is faster too. His is a Clark Craft kit & is pretty heavy at 178 w/ hardware.

  2. #12
    Team Member zul8tr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Orlando, Fla
    Posts
    509
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Wetback Traps

    Quote Originally Posted by Jippe View Post
    How long airtraps should be? Do I made them full length or less?

    I have Dewalds prop, is there way find out proc specs?
    When I was racing my Wetback with a Yamato Y80 and the Merc 25ss back in 1973 to 1980 I had full traps that faded to zero at the rear. The deck design on the Wetback creates a lot of aero lift and it made my Wetback light in the front. I used a gas tank in the rear inside aginst the transom it held about 0,6 gallons. Racing weight of boat was 125 lb with hardware and 355 lb minimum to meet APBA rules for 25ssh class and 380 lbs minimum to meet APBA 20ssh rules. I would be only a few pounds above these minimums at end of heats.

    Here is a shot under way in the 25ssh class back in 1978 Region 5, Wetback fabric deck was changed to Okume and cowl modified in 1978. 25ss top speed was about 63mph, Pinner 2 blade @ 7100 rpm engine rpm and 16:21 gears, prop shaft level to bottom (no kick out) and 3/4" depth of shaft. With the Yamato Y80 I had to add a small turn fin at the rear to prevent rear spin out in the turns.

    If your Wetback is not too heavy and a correct cowl added, gas tank in rear + full traps with a 302 spinning 7100 rpm (correct prop) you should be in the high 60's. At that speed this boat requires carefull trim and driving so be careful.

    If your boat is heavy (especially front heavy) you will always have difficulty turning it because the right sponson will be in the water and it will have a tendency to cut left. Make sure your turn fin is far enough outboard on the left spenson so that the fin water spray does not hit the rear deck outer edge.

    If you want more specific info on the Wetback PM me.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #13
    Team Member JohnsonM50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Jersey
    Posts
    602
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zul8tr View Post
    When I was racing my Wetback with a Yamato Y80 and the Merc 25ss back in 1973 to 1980 I had full traps that faded to zero at the rear. The deck design on the Wetback creates a lot of aero lift and it made my Wetback light in the front. I used a gas tank in the rear inside aginst the transom it held about 0,6 gallons. Racing weight of boat was 125 lb with hardware and 355 lb minimum to meet APBA rules for 25ssh class and 380 lbs minimum to meet APBA 20ssh rules. I would be only a few pounds above these minimums at end of heats.

    Here is a shot under way in the 25ssh class back in 1978 Region 5, Wetback fabric deck was changed to Okume and cowl modified in 1978. 25ss top speed was about 63mph, Pinner 2 blade @ 7100 rpm engine rpm and 16:21 gears, prop shaft level to bottom (no kick out) and 3/4" depth of shaft. With the Yamato Y80 I had to add a small turn fin at the rear to prevent rear spin out in the turns.

    If your Wetback is not too heavy and a correct cowl added, gas tank in rear + full traps with a 302 spinning 7100 rpm (correct prop) you should be in the high 60's. At that speed this boat requires carefull trim and driving so be careful.

    If your boat is heavy (especially front heavy) you will always have difficulty turning it because the right sponson will be in the water and it will have a tendency to cut left. Make sure your turn fin is far enough outboard on the left spenson so that the fin water spray does not hit the rear deck outer edge.

    If you want more specific info on the Wetback PM me.
    You may well have had the fastest B Wetback there ever was Pete. My pals is wild at 50-ish, I agree about being careful.

  4. #14
    Team Member zul8tr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Orlando, Fla
    Posts
    509
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Wetback

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnsonM50 View Post
    You may well have had the fastest B Wetback there ever was Pete. My pals is wild at 50-ish, I agree about being careful.
    I don't know about the fastest B Wetback cause I only raced in Region 5 but I did very well with High Point champ in 1975. During my time from 73 to 80 the competitors were: Dave Rawson, Bunky Bowerman, Fred Townson, Jeff Hutchions, Chuck Bentz, Marshall Eldridge Jr, Steve DiNickelantonio and others. Jeff was running a Craig Craft with US 1 and I managed to get ahead of him on several occasions.

    The Wetback was very stable once I worked out the bugs and got it properly balanced for the 60 + speeds and turning. When I modded the deck and cowl in 1978 it was a better balanced boat and more predictable. Thanks to Harry Pinner for the props.

    I miss those days with 35+ 25ss hydros in eliminations.
    The Yamato Y80 was a real blast on the Wetback a total relearn curve compared to the Merc 25SS.

  5. #15
    Team Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    45
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Thank you for the feedback!
    For now max rpm is 6000-6100, measured with tiny tach.
    I have to draw air traps soon for the subcontractor, so I go with full lenght and fading to zero.
    I have also nose cone for yamato stock gear case.
    Boat bottom paint surface is like orange peel, plan is sand and repaint it and I make finally cowl

    How those improvements effect to rpm with same prop?

  6. #16
    Team Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    45
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Prop pin breaks off and prop gets stuck to axle..
    How to get prop off from axle?

  7. #17
    Team Member Tim Chance's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Saint Louis, MO
    Posts
    190
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jippe View Post
    Prop pin breaks off and prop gets stuck to axle..
    How to get prop off from axle?
    You need to use a gear puller that gets behind the prop so you can pull it off. If you can't get behind the prop you will need to make something to pull from the shear pin holes.

  8. #18
    Team Member zul8tr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Orlando, Fla
    Posts
    509
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default removing stuck prop

    If using a puller fails try heating the outside hub of the prop on all sides to enlarge the hole. Do not apply heat too long because it will also heat up the prop shaft (axel) and still result in a stuck prop. Then immediatly after or during heating with a helper be prepared to pull on the prop at the hub next to the big aluminum cone on the lower unit. There has to be some space in there to insert the 90 degree puller arms or as suggested devise a puller using the shear pin holes. It would also help if you use some JB Blaster penetrating oil on the shaft and prop hub interface.

    If that fails how much do you love this prop? Because you might have to wack at each blade with the heat applied to the hub. That might do it.

    If you get it off clean the shaft with fine wet sand paper and the next prop make sure the fit is slightly loose so that if you shear a pin the prop willl have less chance to weld to the shaft. I place heavy duty disk brake wheel bearing grease with moly additive on the shaft and inside the prop hub to act as a lubricant in case of a sheared pin. This helps for a short time if the engine is shut off as soon as possible.

    Get some stronger shear pins.

    Let us know how you do.

  9. #19
    Sam Cullis Mark75H's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Annapolis, MD USA
    Posts
    1,795
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Another possibility that should not be overlooked is pushing the prop back on and aligning the holes and driving the pin out with a punch.

    Its usually what you should try to do first when a pin breaks, rather than attempting to force the prop off around broken parts of pin galling the inside of the prop.
    Since 1925, about 150 different racing outboards have been made.


  10. #20
    Team Member zul8tr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Orlando, Fla
    Posts
    509
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default stuck prop

    That is definately a good 1st to do but it does require rotating the prop on the shaft to align the pin hole and from what I have seen they can get very jambed. Perhaps the heat for this case will aid in the prop rotation to align the pin hole.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Butts Aerowing-The Only Way To Fly
    By Master Oil Racing Team in forum Boat Racing Encyclopedia
    Replies: 217
    Last Post: 04-11-2022, 09:39 AM
  2. Chris Chamberlain's Wetback
    By Ron Hill in forum Boat Racing Encyclopedia
    Replies: 52
    Last Post: 07-18-2013, 03:10 AM
  3. Hal Kelly Wetback
    By JohnsonM50 in forum Boat Racing Encyclopedia
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 12-28-2005, 03:32 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •