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Thread: Jippe's wetback 10

  1. #21
    Sam Cullis Mark75H's Avatar
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    A very good suggestion
    Since 1925, about 150 different racing outboards have been made.


  2. #22
    Team Member Master Oil Racing Team's Avatar
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    I agree. As a novice in my first year of racing I did the same thing, and did not ask for guidance. Didn't know anyone to ask and my Dad was working....no cell phones then. So I hooked the ends of the puller around the tips of the two blades of the propeller. It took some work, but it finally came loose with a sudden spurt.

    As happy as I was at first, my reaction did a 180 south when I looked at the indentiones at the tips of the blades. As it turned out, (similar to the saying that God protects babies and drunks), the prop always was the best one on the hydro and runabout for our two cylinder FB Konig. It's highly unlikely that you would get the same result by attaching the puller in any place but where Tim suggested. Some good quality oil in the shear pin hole and light heating up, down, and around the prop hub before you cranked down on the puller should also help.



  3. #23
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    Theres no room for puller but the pin is out. It is stuck really tight
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  4. #24
    Team Member zul8tr's Avatar
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    Default stuck prop

    Looks like the pin is still in there? Try the advice already posted. Make a puller that uses the pin holes in the prop that you grab from both sides. As noted abpve apply heat to the hub then immediatly pull. If that fails you will probably need to grab the blades close to the hub with a sling type straps attached to the puller.This probably will damage the prop. but last resort.

  5. #25
    Team Member JohnsonM50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zul8tr View Post
    Looks like the pin is still in there? Try the advice already posted. Make a puller that uses the pin holes in the prop that you grab from both sides. As noted abpve apply heat to the hub then immediatly pull. If that fails you will probably need to grab the blades close to the hub with a sling type straps attached to the puller.This probably will damage the prop. but last resort.
    Maybe not, if you get it in close & keep it from wandering out. Since the prop is sharp & likely to cut, dulling it where you want to strap it to pull then re-edging it later will probably not hurt performance. With the pin out its likely jammed where the distorted metal on the shaft bulges & may be hard to move but pop loose suddenly. Hopefully its not pin debris that would gall the whole way out. Good Luck.

  6. #26
    Team Member F-12's Avatar
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    You're going to have to drill out the pin on both side and uses these holes to form a puller. Not mush else with the situation in the pics.
    Charley Bradley


  7. #27
    Team Member Gene East's Avatar
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    If you have access to a milling machine, special "arms" with short pins can be fashioned for a standard T-bar gear puller.

    We always used a small C-clamp to hold the puller arms tight against the prop to minimize the possibility of the pins popping out.

    Probably pulled 100 or more 2 blade props with the one we had. Three/four blade will require a bit more refining.

    Every boat racer needs a prop puller. Thick leather gloves are a good idea too.

  8. #28
    Team Member Master Oil Racing Team's Avatar
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    With the pin hole looking up, drizzle some good penetrating oil....a high temp oil, and put a little heat around the hub. All the way around. Doesn't have to be real hot...just enough to get the heat all the way to the prop shaft. That makes the hub expand and the oil have some room to sneak in underneath. After heating the hub, drizzle more oil in, then let it soak overvnight. The next day or so take a light sledge hammer, or a regular hammer with some weight, and with back up on the unit , shaft speficically, so it doesn't give...use a punch to get the shear pin out of there. You can't do any good trying to get that prop off with such a metal mass 180 degrees opposing you. As Charley says, you may have to drill the pin from each end, but since you welding it to the shaft with the shear pin still visible, I think some heat, with good oil and the procedure above, you should be able to remove the pin and get the prop off without any further damage. Tim's method will only work if you have the shear pin holes to fit the tool in. The Straps could work too, but only if the shear pin is gone. The only times we ever sheared pins that got welded (besides too much power with the bigger motors) was when we overtighted, and started the shear in the first place. Never hit anything to cause it to shear.



  9. #29
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    Default Prop Removal

    We had a few of these over the years we were racing. Had prop pullers made at Kodak that worked well. When went to 3 blades couldn't use prop pullers anymore. The way we got them off was to get an impact chisel like you would cut fenders off of cars, We would take the cutting tool and cut the cutting end of the tool off so that it was blunt. Make sure that it is a little smaller in diameter then the prop shaft Put the prop nut on the end of the prop shaft, leave it up just a little bit so the tool goes inside the nut to hit the prop shaft. We used rags around the blades and let the lower unit hang between two pieces of wood on the rags. Have someone hold the lower unit, so the lower unit is hanging down, and with small bursts of the impact it will drive the shaft right out. Need pressure on the impact gun while doing this, it never failed for us.

    Leigh

  10. #30
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    Many thanks for your help!
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