What was the final process that worked to pull the prop?
Remove those high spots then polish with some very fine emory cloth and oil.
What was the final process that worked to pull the prop?
Remove those high spots then polish with some very fine emory cloth and oil.
5mm bolts on pin holes holding small two clamps puller. Heat to prop and cold spray to shaft. It moved 1-2 mm on one heating/colding...
Do you use something (vaseline, oil..) between shaft and prop to make remove easier?
I always applied hi temp disk brake wheel bearing grease with moly (Molybdenum disulfide ) additive on the shaft and in the prop bore to provide a bit of tuff lube incase there was a pin shear . Prop may still stick but may not, any case there was grease on the shaft to aid in removal if stuck somewhat. On the 25ss prop shaft cone needle bearings I also greased them with the same grease, really helped the life of these needles and the prop shaft finish. Lucky, but never did shear a pin.
Nose cone is now welded. What epoxy I should use to fillings?
I also got full lenght air traps (3mm aluminum), I post pictures later..
I have tree blade dewalds cleaver (dewalds P-779, qualifierosy 400), diameter is 178-180mm and I havve no idea what the pitch is. Motor quite high, shaft was about 15 above bottom I got max 6100-6200 rpm, weather/water was perfect for speed testing..
I bought 4 2 blade props with 15mm shaft hole and my shaft is 16mm
Increasing yamato power:
I want to keep intertal exhaust, externals are not possibly for lakes.
Polishing channels?, cc'ing power head for more compressions?, timing adjust?, bigger carb?, power reeds? Is there any other tricks? I dont race, so no rules
What do you mean 15 above the bottom? With that height and only getting 6100 - 6200 revs I think the prop has way to much pitch or your engine not producing. The 180 mm diameter is about 7.1" that seems in range but I have heard of in the 6.75" range being used.
I would use JB weld Marine (not their 4 minute mix). You will need to rough up the aluminum and clean well with acetone or laquer thinner. They sell it in the larger containers rather than the small tubes. Do you have a pattern for the final shape to transisition to the skeg? I would have used a bullet shaped extension that better fits the existing nose cone. I have seen them and they are cast with a cup that better fits the profile of the existing foot nose, less filler needed. Performance differences?
I think the hatchet wedge needs to be contoured to a curve.
Sorry, I mix the words. I meant center of shaft is 15mm below the bottom
180mm is not exact, it's measured blade tip to center and doubled.
I think the contouring of the hatched roughly would be good to do 1st as part of prepping for epoxy. Ive used JB Weld & PC7 with good results in similar water stress situations. As long as its roughed well for the epoxy to grab in & very clean it should hold up. Ive made a straight edge connected to a V block to clamp to a prop shaft. The straight edge reaches forward along the side about an inch or 2 away & can be used to check for profile centering.
Good Luck
Thanks, I order that (JB marine weld).
Any comments on yamato power mods?
I try to disassemble prop shaft. How to remove ring with text: IKO JAPAN TR 223425 ??
Instructions says that it's next part to remove...
Prop shaft is going to machinist who reduce it to 15mm.
If I want use 16mm prop, what is best material to make spacer/bushing? It has to be only 0,5mm wall.
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