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Thread: Jippe's wetback 10

  1. #41
    U.K. J 250 - Euro JT250 Techteam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jippe View Post
    I try to disassemble prop shaft. How to remove ring with text: IKO JAPAN TR 223425 ??
    Instructions says that it's next part to remove...
    Prop shaft is going to machinist who reduce it to 15mm.
    If I want use 16mm prop, what is best material to make spacer/bushing? It has to be only 0,5mm wall.
    I think that's a needle roller bearing, if you remove the woodruff key from the shaft it should slide off ?

  2. #42
    Team Member Master Oil Racing Team's Avatar
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    I originally thought it was a woodruff key too, but things don't look right. There seems to be no slot in the inner race, or sleeve or whatever that is, and see how eccentric it is over the shaft? Perhaps it's some type of wedge. If so you could set the bearing on something that would allow the shaft to pass through and press or whack the shaft from the other side. A picture of the back side might make it more clear how to remove the shaft.

    The way it's set up now seems to me would create a vibration.



  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Master Oil Racing Team View Post
    I originally thought it was a woodruff key too, but things don't look right. There seems to be no slot in the inner race, or sleeve or whatever that is, and see how eccentric it is over the shaft? Perhaps it's some type of wedge. If so you could set the bearing on something that would allow the shaft to pass through and press or whack the shaft from the other side. A picture of the back side might make it more clear how to remove the shaft.

    The way it's set up now seems to me would create a vibration.
    I think the photo is throwing you, the shaft is the inner race and because the woodruff key is set back from the end of the shaft and half moon shaped you cannot see the recess.

  4. #44
    Team Member Master Oil Racing Team's Avatar
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    You're right, the photo is throwing me. Everything is concentric except the shaft as it appears in the photo. It looks like the shaft is touching the black ring at the 2:00 position and has the widest gap at 8:00., and so I don't get it how the shaft could serve as an inner race. It might be an optical illusion,or something else in the photo throwing me off, but it doesn't look right.



  5. #45
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    Thumbs up Shaft pics

    Hi,

    Here is few more pictures.. Need help for deassembly

    E: Pictures added
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #46
    Team Member F-12's Avatar
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    Default Angle of the dangle........

    I think the angle of the photo is throwing everyone off. The shaft has (bearing) a slide fit through the race and the key is just a bit off center at this angle. Pretty straightforward after you look closely.
    Charley Bradley


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    New photos more angled.

  8. #48
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    Cylinder head goes today to machinist, so I need quick answer, please
    Theres 2mm gap/space between head and piston, is ok to reduce it to 1,2mm? (cc'ing 0.8mm off.)
    I measured both cylinders compression pressures and they are both 100 psi with cold engine.

    Prop end of shaft is stil on it's place, how to remove it? No help for heating like another end.

  9. #49
    Team Member zul8tr's Avatar
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    Default head cutting?

    First off your cold compression is low at 100. A solid 102 should pull 125- 130, so you are starting off low. Before the head I would check the cylinderes for true and fix that with oversize if needed and a new set of rings. When compression up to standard run it then pull the head a shave if desired. One thing at a time is a rule with mods.

    As far as the the amount to trim can't answer that. First cc the combustion chambers to determine where you are at. Also note that if you trim too much you will upset the squelch area that is important to the loop combustion process. Others more familiar with modding the 102 will have to advise you on hoe much to shave off.

    The head on the 102 is easy to pull off so no big deal to do it after other work.
    Have you aligned the exhaust, cylinder block and crankcase to be dead flat to mate with the lower unit tower? Are all bolts properly torqued? See the manual for instructions at Rick Montoya's site.

  10. #50
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    Thumbs up

    I have motor almost completely disassembled now. I have dremel and it has lot of job soon Theres quite lot angles to round, casting is rough and bumpy. If I have go oversized pistons, do i have to bore cylinders? Manual says piston ring gap has be about 0.8mm but where I measure it
    Also noticed that all cylinder holes are unfinished sharp edges with 90 angle. There should be bevels or roundings to save piston rings.

    I take more pics parts later today, before do anything else than planing the head.

    Where to get power reeds or material to make them?

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