I get them from Tom Cronk here in Lakeland Fla.
http://www.hydroracer.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3641
Also Ric Montoya has Yamato parts.
http://www.yamatoracing.net/
There are others if you search
I get them from Tom Cronk here in Lakeland Fla.
http://www.hydroracer.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3641
Also Ric Montoya has Yamato parts.
http://www.yamatoracing.net/
There are others if you search
European dealer for Yamato is Rick Ward in the UK at;
http://www.yamatoracing.co.uk
He travels to most races on the continent, but I do not see any in Finland
You must work on that. Closest I see is Estonia, or Germany?
My experience doing a 1.5mm [.060"]cut on a 18mm 102 head
was that it caused the piston to hit the edge of the head.
One must restore that that outer band in the combustion chamber.
I have made 16mm to 15mm prop bushings in tool steel
Slow and difficult.
11/16" [popular US size] to 15mm is easy size to make.
Bore the 16mm prop out to 11/16" [17.4mm] and bush it back down to 15mm.
Since you want to stay quiet, and there are no rules,
I was expecting some one would suggest running a 'dry stack'
ie dry exhaust, by venting all cooling water out of the head.
This prohibited in NA stock classes, because of the performance gain
Mod classes are dry exhaust.
Rick Montoya and Mike Ward......Montoya is the USA dude, Mike Ward is the UK dude for Yamato....mike@yamatoracing.co.uk Mike's email.
Where to get shear pins? its 5mm diameter, what material it should be?
I had a whole jar of them around here, I'll go look...
Stainless Steel welding rod will work. A good quality stainless steel bolt can be cut to length. The pin doesn't have to be rounded on the end!
Seems, if I looked long enough, I'd find some shearpins for a Yamato....I've got damn near every **** in this drawer, but the drawer wins, as my finger tips give out easy with my old age!
Anyone see any shearpins??? If you do, I'll keep looking...I have one more drawer like this, somewhere, too!
Exhaust cover has two water outlet: one back and down, one front and little bit higher.
That higher outlet is connected U-shaped hose and back outlet is nothing. Where to connect mark water outlet? Is both outlets important? Or can I block another and use only one outlet to mark water?
By the way, I bought 5mm aisi 316 threated rod to make shear pins.
Boat is almost ready to go the test drive... I'll post pics later.
What is the purpose of two water out- or inlet to carb on front? Theres no hoses connected...
Now I have done testing with few props. My cleaver is still best to drive but I get only 6200--6400 rpms max. speed 59-60 mph. With two blade diam. 6 3/4", center 10" and edge 12" (bought from Bill number 4) I get 7100-7200 rpms max. 59 mph. Two blade prop slips more and do not accelerate as fast like cleaver. If I want buy tree or four blade cleaver which be able to get +7000 rpms. Do you have any ideas what specs that prop should be?
Hope you guys understand this messy text
This thread have pic on my cleaver, can modify it myself some simple tricks? Tips little shorter or front tips rounder or something like that? I still dont have any specs on that prop, its dewalds made.
dewalds prop pics on this thread http://www.boatracingfacts.com/forum...3&postcount=35
I has to idle sometime and then I wont got it plane easily and heres results.
Does it look bad? I drove back back but only half throttle. Dont have cylinder pressure gauge with me but pulling rope one plug place at the time both cylinders feel same...
Different view angle
Kuva107.jpg
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