My 9ft Hydro Restoration Project

[LakeRacer99]

http://www.hydroracer.net/forums/showthread.php?t=21320
I purchased this hydro (weblink) last spring and started striping the paint and removing the crappy repair work in hopes to make a nice platform to run some of my racing motors on. I am still uncertain of the manufacturer, others have suggested it was a Twister from OK, but I have not confirmed it yet.
Since I am pretty unfamiliar with these little hydros and restoring wood boats, I wanted to log it in a message thread hoping others will chime in. That will also keep my motivation going since I stall easy.
Here is what I started with.

[LakeRacer99]

I used aircraft paint stripper to remove the 2-3coats of paint on it.

[LakeRacer99]

I removed the ghetto woodwork that was performed along the front. This was either the result of an impact or an attempted modification. Anyway, there is some rot in the front framework that is left and I need to address that now.

[LakeRacer99]

I am wanting to clean this boat up and use it at local AOMCI events and such, not really race or show. But I really want to do a nice job. I purchased a 4x8sheet of 3mm Okume and multiple pieces of clear white pine for the framework. I also purchased a box of bronze ring shank nails to put it back like it was. I am on the fence about epoxy vs glue. I am planning on scarfing onto the existing framework to rebuild the 10-12in section in the front that has the rot. I am planning minimal paint on this boat it this time as I like the natural finished Mahogany look.

[zul8tr]

Hi AOMCI fellow member from the Orlando Fl AOMCI club.

We have many lake hydros down here.

Been there done that with these restorations and in the middle of one right now and recently finished a 1982.Karelsen pickle 25ss hydro. I use epoxy + cabisil powder filler for glue because of the various fiinishes you will encounter that might be difficult to completly remove. Just sand to wood if possible, but the stuff will adhere to many sanded surfaces + if cabisil added as a structural thickner it is an excellent filler for not exact joinery and is very strong. Clean surfaces with laquer thinner before gluing. I always wet out the joints and surfaces to be glued with epoxy without the cabisil then add the cabisil to the epoxy for the finial joinery while the first wetting is not set..

For the redecking I would be using the 3mm Okume, the 6mm is too thick for that and twice as heavy, but if that is all you can get it will suffice but be heavier in the front. If you plan a natural wood finish you should consider bleaching the old okume with oxylic acid and water solution.The acid crystals are available at ACE hardware.This will get rid of most of the dark water stains and make a more uniform look to the wood. After dried and final sanded with 320 grit I would put on 2 coats of clear epoxy without cabisil filler . Then you have a choice of gloss varnish or auto clear coats the latter which requires a spray setup. If you want to stain the wood use only a water based stain. It is available at ACE.

If you plan on a new front cowl than 3mm is a must to bend to shape.

Before you place the decking use epoxy without cabisil to coat the underside to seal it.

From your previous thread on using the 20H make the transom vertical height about 16inches than shim as needed for final trim. You will also need an adjustable kick out bracket for motor angle. .

Post progress.

[LakeRacer99]

This is after I stripped most of the paint. I made some carboard templates for the deck.

[LakeRacer99]

Here are some shots of the front where I am stalled on rebuilding.

ZU...I typoed that comment about the Okume, I am using 3mm Joubert. Your comments about the thickened epoxy are just what I was looking for. I was leaning that way thinkin it would help with my scarfing. Thanks for the reply about the acid crystals, that was one area i could not find a perfect answer too on the web. I tried scrubbing some of the stained areas clean when I got it but unsuccessful. Any suggestions for waterproofing the insides without taking the remaining decking off?

[zul8tr]

When doing the oxylic acid you might have to do it several times as I did. Just make sure after the final time you do a good wash with water, then when dry wipe down with lacquer thinner then sand the raised wood grain with 220 then wipe again with lacquer thinner then apply 2 coats clear epoxy then sand for final with 120, 220, 320 and wipe again with laquer thinner before final finish, Note some epoxies can be coated within a certain time frame without sanding between coats for quicker build up and this saves a lot of work. Use a tack cloth for final dusting.

To get really good looking deck wood for a natural finish you need to sand very well with several grades to remove all old finish and remove sanding scratches and other blems. Sand with the grain. You can check how it will look by wiping on mineral sprits (or cheaper paint thinner) to see the grain.

As far as sealing the under deck without removal not likely unless there are access holes in the cockpit sides. If you flip it when running the deck underside will get wet but if quickly removed from the water and drained there will be little time for the water to penetrate to do harm. Just do not store the boat bottom up after use or any water will settle on the deck underside and cause a problem with topside visable stains if there is enough water to make a puddle.

You can use laquer thinner on a rag and a paint brush for the tight spots to get a better cleaning of the inside bottom and ribs. If the varnish is old it is very cured and will resist laquer thinner wiped right away. Wear protection and a mask for fumes .

[Ron Hill]

That is what I started with....I'm going to count the ribs when I get home...This white boat sure has the same lines.

You are doing a great job putting it back together.

[LakeRacer99]

great looking hydro Ron! I assume it was glassed over, really makes it look tall with the front cowl painted same color.

My boat looks similar to the Sorensen and also similar to a bezoats or B&H? but little differences that I see.