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Thread: Material Selection

  1. #11
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    Default Don't Forget

    Obeeche can be used, it is a very good comparrison to Sitka. The cost is lighter on the wallet as well.

    If you truly can't find a good source near you for Sitka, you can order from Noahs in Canada. A lot of boat builders order from there.

    I suggest getting with Darell Sorenson as he surely has a good source for the Sitka. I believe he also sold it for long time, he might still. Can't get a lot closer to you than Sorenson.

    If you must, I have used popular for cross frames and stringers. It is heavier, yes. I don't think it reacts like Sitka either, and might be weaker in hydroplane construction. But, it works for the loads we apply to them in the larger cubic inch classes in hydros.

    If you only have access to plywood, you can laminte plys together using west system, to reach the desired thickness, typically 3.4" and cut to length. This will be as strong as the sitka, but alightly heavier. Make sure you alternate the grains to achive the load bearing in all directions. And if possible, use a layer or two of Carbon or glass depending on your strength to weight needs.

    As a last resort, send me your specs and I can see what I can do to cut your frames and UPS them out.

  2. #12
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    Default Re; Material selection


  3. #13
    - Skoontz's Avatar
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    Dave and Ed, thank you. I have a source for Sitka down in Corona, they sell aircraft woods and Sitka is one they stock. White pine, Douglas Fir and Ponderosa Pine are available here at Truckee -Tahoe Lumber and there are a number of wooden boat builders who buy from them. Ponderosa Pine and Doug Fir grow readily all over our area and there are a couple lumber farms within 100 miles of us. What do you think about using 1/4" marine plywood for sheeting over Okume? I'm looking at 15 pounds difference less the cutting from each sheet. I'm thinking I can get this whole rig done around 155 lbs, rigged less engine. I know it ain't hydro or bounceabout weight, but then its not a hydro and was not intended to be one....
    Bill Schwab
    Dirty Deck Brewing
    Company

  4. #14
    Team Member MN1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skoontz View Post
    Mark that looks amazing! I'm not going for ultra light weight here, but obviously weight is an issue. I want to be able to be fast and strong. I think I'm going with 1/2" marine plywood capped with 3/4" marine plywood, which I can use to sandwich the transom. then the stringers, I will use thw white spruce, as that material was used in some of the inlay decks on the old woodies and is readily available at our local lumber yard. Here is the last question.... Okume is expensive compared to marine plywood, for example a sheet of 6mm Okume is dancing at $95 here, and 1/4" marine plywood is $40.00. Rounded figures here....Does anyone know the weight difference per sheet of marine plywood vs okume? I'm only looking to use 6 sheets totel, without cutting for the contours of the boat. I may use a sheet of Okume for the deck, as I want to create a wood inlay look with neon glow paint bloober doodles on the sides.
    Thank you once again for the help!
    4' x 8' Okoume plywood weighs 18 lbs. for 6mm and 1/4" Douglas Fir plywood weighs 25 lbs.
    If it were me I would go with the Okoume that is BS1088 grade. One way to cut costs would be to find a cheaper solid wood. Obeche is cheaper but it has a low resistance to rot. The Paulownia I used on the SST-60 boat was cheap and has a high resistance to rot but would not work for stringers. But it was perfect for blocking.
    I have thought about looking into White Cedar for my next project.
    Mark N

  5. #15
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    Default Ply

    Mastercraft in Reno / sparks has hardwoods and some good ply may be less $ then TT Lumber. No spruce
    GB

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