Thread: Building A looper Beast

  1. #351
    Team Member Gene East's Avatar
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    Back to dynos, Paul Christner called earlier this afternoon stating QW performed 1200 dyno tests during it's hey-day. Paul is quite clear in his position a dyno operator must be well qualified or damage can/will occur to the engine.
    A dyno test is simply a comparison to a known bench mark. There is no bench mark for "The Beast".
    Paul did say, "The Beast" may well be the most powerful normally aspirated 100 c.i. engine in the world. He very well maybe correct!
    Paul has hundreds of QW dyno cards in his possession.
    I would highly recommend visiting his website www.quincylooperracing.us to learn more about the "Quincy Looper" racing outboards.

  2. #352
    Team Member Master Oil Racing Team's Avatar
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    imagine this scenario. A talented video producer takes all of Dick's photos and comments, writes a script, does a number of interviews with Dick and maybe a few other notables , adds music then puts together a DVD of what we have been watching Dick post over these past many months. I guess that scenario would be too good to be true, but then again we have just seen Dick's vision come together and run. So who knows.



  3. #353
    Team Member R Austin's Avatar
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    Thought I would follow up with a few more pictures of the final parts required.

    The swivel bracket friction break disc I wanted to retain for adding some resistance to the steering torque. I turned a new part from a solid piece of steel rather than the disc brazed of as Mercury used to do. When I made that part I also cut two lugs on it that straddled the upper adapter plate to prevent rotation and cut the lug so that they became stop blocks. When turned to full left or right they stop the engine before the prop strikes the bottom of the boat by hitting the friction top clamp plate.

    I removed the carb throttle shafts and reversed them to the other side of the engine with less congestion from all the fuel lines. I drew up the lever for the throttle and throttle anchor and laser cut. The throttle lever slid onto the throttle shaft and bolted to the second position on the existing lever. The cable jacket anchor is just a piece of bar that is drilled for the cable deeper than the stroke and then a hole in the end large enough for the core wire, then welded to the plate.

    A few stats on the engine and the first run:
    The engine completed weights in at 241 pounds. 52 pounds for complete tower and gear case assembly and the power head at 189 pounds.
    The carbs were set at: Idle was 2 turns, Stock passages. High speed were set a 1 1/2 turns. Same needle and hole size as the Quincy Carters plus a .074 fixed jet verses the Quincy fixed jet of .060.
    Timing was set at .095 BTDC Set slow for first start. Planned timing to be approx .150 BTDC.
    Fuel is Methanol with Castrol bean oil, mixed 12.5 to 1 (2 quart to 5 gallon) again for safe first start. Planned standard 1 qt per 5 gallon
    Compression on all 6 cylinders after the two starts made that first day was 185 pounds. They were all exactly the same and could not differentiate from each other. Like I forgot to release the gauge between readings.


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  4. #354
    Team Member BJuby's Avatar
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    Really liking that throttle bracket/assembly. Also, what material are you using for the fuel lines and does it come in clear? I'll need something like it for my loopers.

  5. #355
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    I've looked at pics of the carbs but still have questions. The pics show the main bodies with a hollow trunk in the center of the float bowl. On that trunk is a threaded hole on the thicker boss on the side opposite the inlet needle. That hole is apparently for the fixed jet. But none have an orifice machined for the adjustable needle yet? Does the open bottom of this central trunk seal against the bottom of the float bowl so fuel can only enter through the fixed and adjustable jets? Or does it get plugged somehow?Does the adjustable needle go beneath the float or did the float need a slot for clearance? Or is there something there that I have just missed? Just curious to figure how it works.

    And one correction. Two quarts oil to 5 gallons of fuel is 10-1, not 12 1/2-1. I'm sure the engine would like either one.

  6. #356
    Team Member R Austin's Avatar
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    I changed the video on page 34 but will also include here. It is of better quality and includes the real time of the start. The 2nd start was right now! Did not crank a full rev and blasted off. Lots of oil with very low timing and still sounded good. I just let it run out of fuel. That short run time of the two starts used a little more than a quart of fuel.



    Yes my math is not good when I am trying to type at the same time. I guess the 12 came from half of the ratio that we ran when racing. That was really 24.5 to one . Good catch, however when I look at it now , it is quite obvious.
    Thanks

  7. #357
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    It seems like it would idle down pretty good. It has a strong and quick rev to it!!

  8. #358
    Team Member R Austin's Avatar
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    I did jump thru the carbs a little quick, so I will try to cover the question asked about the finish of the carb. In the picture showing all 6 carbs, you notice a bright machine mark on the bowl seat surface below the carb barrel opening. This is for lug over the main adjuster on the float bowl in the next picture. That lines the bowl with the body. A round cork gasket has a spot of super glue affixing it to the bowl to seal the tower. I Made a fixture that drills the hole in the tower for the main jet. It holds the drill just a few thousands from the tower to keep the drill from wandering off the curved surface of the tower. When drilled a tower gasket and bowl gasket are in place to make the vertical position correct. The bowl before tightening has the lug centered in the milled notch. After the hole is drilled the body was placed in the mill to align with the newly drilled needle seat. A center drill was then drilled into the face of the tower to create a round uniform seat for the needle. A hole in a curved surface makes an ellipse on the surface. The center drill makes a round hole and a uniform flow around the needle. When the bowl is installed for final assembly the needle is lightly tightened against the seat to center the bowl. The float had a notch filed into it to the clear the needle enough to let the float drop to the float stop without touching the needle. That is not the actual float, but you get the picture, not near the material removed in the actual float.

    I included a couple of pictures of the before and after of the old engine and the new. A picture of the finish on the boat that cost a few hundred hours. I just thought that it looked good enough to show.

    And last, picture of the prop collection for the beast that I have been collecting for it over the past five years or more. Which are now in the hands of Mr Ron Hill for final preparation.

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  9. #359
    Team Member Gene East's Avatar
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    Just like the engine, the boat is beautiful! Wasn't that boat originally trimmed in white?

  10. #360
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    Gotta jack this thread........

    Mark Suter's annual AOMCI antique outboard show Saturday October 18 in Byron, MI just north of Fowlerville will feature Dick Austin's fabulous "Looper Beast" to be displayed on one of his cab-over hydros, along with Mark's 175+ stock, mod, and alky outboards and much, much more. There is also a swap meet where old racing equipment/engines are popular among collectors. Google "Mark Suter AOMCI show" for more information. Can't wait to see it in three dimensions!

    See you there,

    Tim

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