Thread: Building A looper Beast

  1. #431
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    Not only is the no need for Lock Tite on rod bolts, its use is counter productive. (If a nut and bolt in a stress cycling environment is not sufficiently stretched it will FAIL with the nut still in place.)

    As I wrote above, the failure of that bolt was an obvious fatigue failure--seen hundreds of them over the decades. It was not caused by under torqueing the bolt, but a failure of that bolt from someone else under torquing it (or a material failure). To avoid that fate in the future you need to select high quality bolts (ARP or SPS) and torque them with light oil on the threads to 15 or so pounds. That set up will be reliable.

    Jeff
    "We live at the bottom of an ocean of air." - General Marvage Slatington

  2. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastjeff57 View Post
    Not only is the no need for Lock Tite on rod bolts, its use is counter productive. (If a nut and bolt in a stress cycling environment is not sufficiently stretched it will FAIL with the nut still in place.)

    As I wrote above, the failure of that bolt was an obvious fatigue failure--seen hundreds of them over the decades. It was not caused by under torqueing the bolt, but a failure of that bolt from someone else under torquing it (or a material failure). To avoid that fate in the future you need to select high quality bolts (ARP or SPS) and torque them with light oil on the threads to 15 or so pounds. That set up will be reliable.

    Jeff
    I agree but always wondered about Merc using loctite and OMC oil?

  3. #433
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    Proper torque readings require a consistent, reproducible thread friction, and cleaned threads, oiled, is very consistent.

    Using Lock Tite can cause high friction (or not?) and that's not good. Besides, it's truly unnecessary in this application. What is necessary--critical!--is using top quality bolts. Drag racers have learned the hard way to spend the money on ARP and SPS fasteners! Just ask one.

    Jeff
    "We live at the bottom of an ocean of air." - General Marvage Slatington

  4. #434
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    red lock tite is necessary on rod bolts. on some units, with out it, it comes apart. but you can do what ever you want.

    Part one of "Secrets of the OMC Mod 50" : http://www.boatracingfacts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2052

  5. #435
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    red is specifically noted is factory service manuals as it refers to rod bolts , it's been tryed with out it, failed almost instantly.

    Part one of "Secrets of the OMC Mod 50" : http://www.boatracingfacts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2052

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Fred View Post
    red is specifically noted is factory service manuals as it refers to rod bolts , it's been tryed with out it, failed almost instantly.
    on what brand are we talking Fred?

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    If you can't keep a rod bolt tight without Lock Tite, its not being properly torqued! Billions of rod bolts in engines, from grocery getters to super cars, are assembled WITHOUT Lock Tite every year.

    Jeff
    "We live at the bottom of an ocean of air." - General Marvage Slatington

  8. #438
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    Merc, nic bore 2.5 carb and horn modas. but hay you can do what ever yous want. i've only built thousands not billions. you can't get a moda from me without red on the new rod bolts. i use it as the lube for the threads. ya them two strokes make a lot of vibration when you start pullin passed 6000 rpm,

    Part one of "Secrets of the OMC Mod 50" : http://www.boatracingfacts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2052

  9. #439
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    Properly torqued, the vibration "above 6,000 rpms" is irrelevant. If not, the rod bolts would stretch and break from fatigue--and, yes, with the red Lock Tite still holding the bolt/ nut in place.

    Jeff
    "We live at the bottom of an ocean of air." - General Marvage Slatington

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    Thanks for the help in diagnosing the problem and the correct fit up of the new parts. Please take the balance of rod bolt torque and technique discussion to a new thread.

    Thanks

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