Thread: Building A looper Beast

  1. #51
    Team Member BJuby's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. Very interesting.

  2. #52
    Team Member Looperfan's Avatar
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    Name:  phone photos 1416.jpg
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Size:  75.1 KB Here is a few more

  3. #53
    Team Member R Austin's Avatar
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    Cracking between plugs has been a fear since I decided to go with dual plugs. They are only 10mm thread but still not much metal between them and a likely hot spot. Still looking at a way to cross drill between the plus for some water flow. not even practical for a core redesign, just not enough room. We will see!

  4. #54
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    Default Water jacket

    Quote Originally Posted by R Austin View Post
    Cracking between plugs has been a fear since I decided to go with dual plugs. They are only 10mm thread but still not much metal between them and a likely hot spot. Still looking at a way to cross drill between the plus for some water flow. not even practical for a core redesign, just not enough room. We will see!
    Have you given consideration to an external water jacket? Though cross drilling will introduce water between the plugs it will also weaken the head.

    The attached image is a 4-plug head for my "Piranha" 45SS Mod. Note the water bleed centrally located between the plugs. You might be able to add this feature to your heads.

    Tim
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by Tim Kurcz; 10-05-2012 at 05:14 AM. Reason: Add image

  5. #55
    Team Member R Austin's Avatar
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    I should not have said cross drill, but drill bleed holes left and right into the water passage and allow them to vent out between the plugs. Just 1/16 or 3/32 bleed holes to pull some heat, will not take much and the angle will not put the hole in an area to weaken the head. I will drill one of the test heads before I split them and see how it looks.Name:  Head water vent0001.jpg
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  6. #56
    Team Member R Austin's Avatar
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    The following pics are of the continued machining of the mid case. Being part number one, most of the work is just roughing in the casting to remove warppage and square it up. The measurements of the casting to print to make sure the casting conforms to the print for shrinkage and proper location of cylinder centers and crank and rod throw depths. Once determined more roughing was required to properly position. It actually was about .150 removal from both faces, so back to a roughing cutter and then a finishing cut again. Plenty of material to remove. One thing I do is over kill on machined surfaces. I believe that it is easier to remove material than to start over.Name:  IMG-20120922-00677.jpg
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  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by R Austin View Post
    I should not have said cross drill, but drill bleed holes left and right into the water passage and allow them to vent out between the plugs. Just 1/16 or 3/32 bleed holes to pull some heat, will not take much and the angle will not put the hole in an area to weaken the head. I will drill one of the test heads before I split them and see how it looks.Name:  Head water vent0001.jpg
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    Looks like you should have room for a 3/32" port which should be plenty if the plugs are relatively cool. Having blown two gaskets in the turbo in short succession begs the question: What do you plan for sealing the head to block interface?

    Tim

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    typical of an engine that comes apart every day, oring and copper?

  9. #59
    Team Member R Austin's Avatar
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    This engine is not one that will be disassembled each run. Obviously, no class for this engine, just something to have a quick ride with. The only gaskets will be for the exhaust stacks. The heads will be o-rings, all other joints metal to metal with permatex. Have made some progress on the mid case. The following pics are of the front cover and the mid case matched up with the original Mercury dowel pin locations. Bolt holes laid out, drilled and tapped for now in the mid case. When mated to the block, the inner bolts along side the mains, will be through drilled and be cross bolted into the block face. There appears to be a lot of metal to remove for the crank bore, however that is not the case. The TII X front cover will have saddle blocks installed and the crank bore will be the same as the 60-66 block (3.283) and I will use the main blocks from the 60-66 engines. This will keep more material through the web between the main bearing block and the cylinder block. This was an area that was a problem on the Quincy engine.Name:  IMG-20120922-00685.jpg
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  10. #60
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    Freakin awesome!

    Carb centerlines appear very tighly spaced. What carbs stack that close?

    Tim

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