frozen bolts

[smittythewelder]

If you ever do find that info, Wayne, I hope you'll post it somewhere, because there are a whole bunch of gear-heads, here and on other motorsports sites, that would be avid readers.

Come to think of it, does anyone remember what that stuff was that Zak was playing with? Somebody here thought it was a rice oil, but maybe he had gotten into the sake (Japan's rice-beer/wine).

The local auto parts place has one of those turn-the-crank oil comparo-machines. Aren't they fun? I can hardly pass one up without giving the handles a spin. The most fun part is looking at that thick, honey-like super additive they are promoting after you have cranked it up the train of plastic gears; oh, it clings real good for sure, but when you look close you can see that it contains a billion tiny bubbles of entrained AIR that you stirred up. Uh, not in MY motor, thank you.

[Master Oil Racing Team]

.... it wasn't the sake somebody up there was into. He hit it pretty close to the mark. ZAK would buy a five gallon can of MX-237 and bottle it up in small plastic bottles. Just a few ounces. I never saw one and forgot what he called it, but he would sell it as a fuel additive to snowmobilers. He also made a fantastic grease with an MX-237 base that was silver colored. He put that in very small containers with a screw on lid. We would use that on the threads of the studs that screwed into the water jacket of the block and held the head down. When we needed to lap the block to seal off water, it was easy to get those studs out.

As far as thinning an oil, Omark Industries used to thin MX-237 with a product called Shell Sol 70. The were boring rifle barrels 30" or so and they thinned it to keep the oil at the head of the tool. Their tool life increased dramatically and well as decreased the scrap rate.

That clinging oil is good for low speed gears, especially on a long gear train like on a ship where some gears don't get proper lubrication. You're right about the air bubbles in a high speed motor. In a lower unit, it would be like whip cream. Stuck all over the sides while your gears ground themselves to metal flake.

Smitty, I think most of that information was junked when our buildings and shops in Alice were sold. My brother Mark may have some left. I got out all my old boat racing stuff and my Dad's correspondence, but I didn't have room to store all the technical and historical data.

[QUINAULTRACING]

blowoff.com, I have not used their lube job yet but if it works half as good as some of their other products, in might be the best new product on the market. Got the name BLOWOFF 25 -30 years ago, they started out selling canned air to clean key boards. I use their product GETOFF ink and adhesive remover for removing numbers and stickers from boats. Is better than 3M and half the mess..steve.............. PS After reading my post about adding acetone to MAVEL MYSTERY OIL. I said it lowered the tensile strength must have been in the sun too much. It lowers the surface tension the same way cool it or any of the products that you would put in your radiator to make it cool better.

[jphii1]

I just thought I'd bring this back to the top. I was oredering some more form WILSON, and figured the link may cone in handy for someone.

[Bill Van Steenwyk]

Selling Hydraulic Wrenches over the years has given me some insight to removal of studs, bolts, nuts, etc., that for one reason or another won't come loose without some help. I'm talking about some quite large fasteners used on power generation turbine equipment and such. Torque requirements up to 30,000 ft. lbs. and above. I have used lots of Master Oil on tool demos and almost everyone says that is the best lubricant they have ever seen. But I am like most others in not knowing where to get it anymore. Until Wayne's post I didn't know it was still being marketed. I won't be so chintzy with the few cans I have left anymore.

The one method I have seen used, and there is a portable machine that mechanical contractors use on Turbine overhauls, large machinery such as steel mills use, etc., called a "Disintegrator" It is basically a portable EDM machine that instead of machining a finished part from a base piece of material, is placed over the stud or bolt and VERY RAPIDLY just disintergrates the metal leaving a very thin piece that is easily then removed from the hole. I am sure unless you purchased one of these type machines it would be very expensive to hire the contractor for one small job. but perhaps check with EDM folks, either mfgrs., or end users and perhaps you might find someone doing small jobs on an individual basis, probably located around heavy manufacturing areas. Maybe this will help as an alternate source when all else fails.

[RichardKCMo]

Like to hear more , since in Mo. we seem to have lost that .
RichardKCMo

Selling Hydraulic Wrenches over the years has given me some insight to removal of studs, bolts, nuts, etc., that for one reason or another won't come loose without some help. I'm talking about some quite large fasteners used on power generation turbine equipment and such. Torque requirements up to 30,000 ft. lbs. and above. I have used lots of Master Oil on tool demos and almost everyone says that is the best lubricant they have ever seen. But I am like most others in not knowing where to get it anymore. Until Wayne's post I didn't know it was still being marketed. I won't be so chintzy with the few cans I have left anymore.

The one method I have seen used, and there is a portable machine that mechanical contractors use on Turbine overhauls, large machinery such as steel mills use, etc., called a "Disintegrator" It is basically a portable EDM machine that instead of machining a finished part from a base piece of material, is placed over the stud or bolt and VERY RAPIDLY just disintergrates the metal leaving a very thin piece that is easily then removed from the hole. I am sure unless you purchased one of these type machines it would be very expensive to hire the contractor for one small job. but perhaps check with EDM folks, either mfgrs., or end users and perhaps you might find someone doing small jobs on an individual basis, probably located around heavy manufacturing areas. Maybe this will help as an alternate source when all else fails.

[Michael J Gwaltney]

Selling Hydraulic Wrenches over the years has given me some insight to removal of studs, bolts, nuts, etc., that for one reason or another won't come loose without some help. I'm talking about some quite large fasteners used on power generation turbine equipment and such. Torque requirements up to 30,000 ft. lbs. and above. I have used lots of Master Oil on tool demos and almost everyone says that is the best lubricant they have ever seen. But I am like most others in not knowing where to get it anymore. Until Wayne's post I didn't know it was still being marketed. I won't be so chintzy with the few cans I have left anymore.

The one method I have seen used, and there is a portable machine that mechanical contractors use on Turbine overhauls, large machinery such as steel mills use, etc., called a "Disintegrator" It is basically a portable EDM machine that instead of machining a finished part from a base piece of material, is placed over the stud or bolt and VERY RAPIDLY just disintergrates the metal leaving a very thin piece that is easily then removed from the hole. I am sure unless you purchased one of these type machines it would be very expensive to hire the contractor for one small job. but perhaps check with EDM folks, either mfgrs., or end users and perhaps you might find someone doing small jobs on an individual basis, probably located around heavy manufacturing areas. Maybe this will help as an alternate source when all else fails.

I have seen a new product in automotive trade magazines and on SPEED TV. It is CRC Freeze-Off that freezes fastner to allow for easier removal. I haven't tried it but there is an interesting demo video on website. crcindustries.com/freeze-off. Anyone tried it?

[Master Oil Racing Team]

That's a handy link Joe. Wilson was one of the oldest distributors. Nice to see they still handle it.

That CRC Freeze Off could be the answer to some totally incredible salvaging of one of a kind type parts. As you have read previously, we used to apply Master Oil then heat then more oil and more heat to get some expansion and penetrating action going. Just imagine what you could do, especially if you were in a hurrry, by doing the preceeding procedure on the part to save, then suddenly freezing the bolt.

[Tim Weber]

I have never used the Master Oil. I didn't even know it was available until yesterday. I have had good luck with Kroil for frozen bolts.

What makes Master so good and what are some of its applications other than frozen bolts?

Tim

[Master Oil Racing Team]

A lot of that information is available in prior posts Tim, but here is some background info.

When my Dad first got it patented, the base oil was a byproduct of a certain type of grain process. It has the same ph as the human skin and is not in any way harmful unless you drank it, then you better hang out close to a bathroom for awhile. It won't actually harm you, but you might get very embarrassed. My Dad first became acquainted with it when he was in the Aloe Vera business. The base oil was used as one of the ingredients in their hand cream. When he shut that Aloe business down after a short time, one of the chemists he was working with told him of the fantastic lubricating qualities it had. So they got together and added some extreme pressure lubricants and a few other ingredients--all non hazardous.

At the time they came out with it, sperm oil from sperm whales had just been banned. It was the primary cutting oil for the most extreme jobs. Master Oil was able to duplicate its qualities. And also was a natural and not petroleum based. Master Oil was widely accepted in Gulf Coast refineries after a major explosion and fire was traced back to a petroleum distillate oil. Master Oil is non flammable, and at the time it was tested by Southwest Research in San Antonio it had the lowest coefficient of any oil that they had ever tested.

Since it's nonflammable, heat can be applied (depending on what else nearby might melt or burn) to help the penetrating process. So the fact that it is nonflammable, non toxic, biodegradeable, made from renewable resources and has superior penetrating and lubricating properties makes it a very attractive oil. Unfortunately, it is also much more costly than its competitors. That former waste product is now in demand in certain parts of the world and the base oil is refined for use in industrial cooking processes because it lasts so long before it turns rancid.

Besides a penetrating oil it is good for machine work. In fact on soft metals like aluminum one manufacturer was cutting out a step because the cut was so fine he didn't have to do as much polishing. It stands out on use on the extremes--very soft and very hard metals. We used it somewhat as a fuel additive in our racing engines, but with methanol it is tricky. Mixes perfectly with gasoline. We ran it in our lower units. It is very good for rust protection, but if you put it on moving parts heavily and leave it for awhile, it will get gummy. Then you will have to clean it off. More oil will do that. You can't put it on binoculars or scopes because it will penetrate the seals of the optics and get inside. If you have anything in particular you are thinking about let me know. It will turn copper and brass green.

There have been a lot of synthetics that have been developed since Master Oil first hit the streets in 1966, so there are many more products out their now that could do things that a standard petroleum base lubricant couldn't. I hope this answers your questions.