frozen bolts

[Master Oil Racing Team]

I don't know. I'll have my brother Mark contact you.

[Skoontz]

Hi all! New here. We got numerous engines into our shop that came from salt water running where the owners did not flush them properly after they were done. All of the above will work, but when we really got a nasty one we removed the powerhead, built a clay dam and used an ultra sound machine. They sent electronic impulses through the bolt and broke the bond between bolt and block. Someitmes that did not work, and, we ended up using something to guide a drill and would Heli-Coil the threads.

[Master Oil Racing Team]

Hey Joe, I lost this thread a day or so ago and didn't see the post where you found some Master Oil. Let me know how it works out. I was talking with Mark this morning and told him to send a little sample to River Rat, Jeff Akers and Skoontz to try out. He told me he had a distributor in Reno that has some on the Golden Gate Bridge now. The most interesting thing though, is that he told me he has a couple of old letters from boat racers that he is going to E Mail. One is from Ron Hill and the other from Bill Seebold.

[jphii1]

Thanks Wayne. I thought I'd post THIS LINK so that anyone else that needs some could find it.

[skiffman1957]

I have always had great success getting out broken bolts by welding a new nut to the broken bolt. If they are stainless then get some stainless rod, place new nut over broken bolt holding it in a vise grip as to steady the nut over the bolt. Then turn the Amp's up just maybe 10 or 20 Amps higher then you would use to weld that thickness of metal. Center nut over bolt, strike an arc in the hole right down over the bolt and fill up the nut with weld. Now you have transfered plenty of heat into the bolt and that helps break the bond between the Alu. & stainless. If you welded the nut correctly you can just turn it out with a wrench. I havent found one bolt that would not come out this way... Good luck...

[smittythewelder]

I just got here, and I can't believe that nobody has mentioned left-hand drill bits!! That's right, these are short length bits with a reverse twist, and you have to use a drillmotor that will run in reverse. You use these bits to drill out the broken bolt for an easy-out, in the usual way, but the advantage is that 80% of the time the bolt will back out while you are trying to drill it. Left-hand drill bits were for me the greatest discovery since Mercury Special Tool #1 (an oxy-acetylene torch).

Another good tool, sometimes safer and/or more convenient than any torch, is an A/C arc welder with a carbon-arc electrode. Either single or twin carbons will work; I use a twin carbon torch. With my old Sears "buzz-box" turned off, I set up the torch so that the carbon electrodes are touching both sides of the fastener, then reach back and turn on the welder. It doesn't take a lot of amps. If the fastener is broken off in cast iron, I get it red hot, but I wouldn't get it that hot if it is in aluminum. Then work the fastener back and forth with vise-grips til it will back out. Of course, if you have nothing to grab, weld on a nut as Skifman describes.

Some guys seem to break off a lot more bolts than they should. These are the guys that are always in a hot rush, but they end up wasting a lot of time. They do everything in reverse order!. FIRST, they rip the head off the bolt, THEN they drill, and try an easy-out (and maybe break it), THEN they put on penetrating oil, but they haven't the patiience to let it soak, so they go immediately to a propane torch, THEN a welding torch, etc., etc., etc..

Maybe I'm a pessimist, but when I encounter bolts that look like they could be troublesome (exhaust manifold bolts, ANY fastener on a motor used in Puget Sound!), I soak them overnight (hopefully in Good Ol' Master Oil!!), and apply some heat BEFORE reefing on them.

[QUINAULTRACING]

If you us a container in which you can open and close put in a drop of acetone in your oil. It lowers the tensile strength of the oil and lets it penetrate better. I us MARVEL MYSTERY OIL..steve

[smittythewelder]

Interesting, Steve. But can you answer a question I have been asking for over forty years: What's the mystery (in Marvel Mystery Oil)?? Lots of people swear by the stuff, several companies over the years have specified Marvel oil for lubricating their products (remember the Judson vane-type supercharger for Volkswagons?), and nearly everybody has an opinion, but I'd like to know WHAT is the special secret ingredient or combination>

[QUINAULTRACING]

It just works. I my self have been one that was always wanting to know how and why ? But in my years of learing I asked a lot of ?????????? and got the same answer from many. In theroy, oh you don,t have to know why just belive me thats the way it works.................I also add 1 oz. of each acetone and mavel mystery oil to my rigs I drive 2X that if I'm making the run to OROVILLE or a long haul. In the winter engines will start like they were just tuned up..................add same mix of oils to my stock fuel mix to put PRO engine to put it bed. I know a man that has used it for the same, for years, does not know what he is using and never asked. But it will clean a PRO engine like new just marvel and a little RED LINE left when you are all done..steve..22-R......PS I am not really here. I am out at the lake......rained two inchs out there last night. I'm trying to a super on a 180 degree corner with a 15' radis an 12' drop had to just STOP.

[Master Oil Racing Team]

We used to have background info on most of those majors oils and or additives (Marvel, STP, WD 40, etc.), but I don't know what happened to it. I do remember though how the name of WD 40 came about. They were testing formulations for a water displacing penetrating oil. The 40th test was the best. The name came from the test sheet. They are all hydrocarbon based. STP (scientifically treated petroleum) was a cushioning agent. It had friction reducing properties, but mainly it was used like a liquid rubber to give more life to a worn engine. Back in the days of Andy Granatelli the oils were not as sophisticated as today and there were no synthetics. During the course of the Indianapolis 500 (or any of those long races) there was a lot of engine wear. STP kind of filled in the gaps and and kept the internal pieces from slapping around and wearing out so the engine could make the finish. At least that is what I remember