over prop exhaust v thru prop exhaust on 60hp evinrude

[Ron Hill]

Joe was one of the most fair drivers I ran against, along with SueAnne Callahan. Both would keep their lanes
even if squeezed from the outside. Paul told me that Joe used to walk around in the pits around Gallatin as a small
boy, he knew him then. He drove for Chuck Rutherford, whose stable of orange Allisons is still in a barn
outside Knoxville. Wasn't me at the marine stadium. I used to step my E boat up to GP and outrun Joe in
Chuck's 15' Allison/Merc 850 at the nationals. See photo below, Joe's on the inside. We ran like that lap after lap til i got by then
Danny Critchfield won because both Joe and I had jumped the gun. We ran off and left Danny.

You can jack a 75 up nearly to split propshaft and still pump water on a v-bottom.

Photo of Joe's EP rig at Eufaula, 1977.

One year at Havasu, I think Chuck was driving one boat in JP and Joe the other. They blew the side out of one boat, but kept running. I somehow I got hold of the wood shop teacher at the high school and he gave us some plywood, Havasu was a much smaller town in those days and everything was closed. A friend of mine from Wisconsin had come to watch the race and the only tool he had for working on work was a AX. My dad, the guy named Roy from Wisconsin, Chuck, me and Joe fixed that boat with glass, plywood and ax. The guy was so impress with my dad's skill skills sharpening the ax and cutting the wood, he gave my dad the ax. I think they (Chuck and Joe) ran 1-2 in JP....).

Here's a Raker on E-bay...Personally, I thunk the over hubs work better...http://www.ebay.com/itm/Evinrude-RAK...0db84b&vxp=mtr

Here is picture of my over the hubs, I have them in 21 and 23, but making some new ones with 25 and 26 pitch.


Great picturesw, Smokin Joe...I'd love to have one of those little Allisons.

[phillnjack]

is it true about no shifting gears with the over hubs ?

do you guys all start in gear when using these type props ?

and will they run sub surface and semi-surface?
what i mean is will they run good with engine cav plate just 3 inches above hull.

the price im looking at is a steal at the moment, might even buy it as an ornament.

seen a few on ebay usa but the postage is a real killer, or they wont post to the uk grrrrrrrrrr

i can get the through hub michigan 12 x 23 but nobody says if they are good or bad & that one
would cost me $165 us incl postage as its near to me.

the rakers are way too expensive from the usa once postage is added on.

phill

[Smokin' Joe]

is it true about no shifting gears with the over hubs ?

do you guys all start in gear when using these type props ?

and will they run sub surface and semi-surface?
what i mean is will they run good with engine cav plate just 3 inches above hull.

the price im looking at is a steal at the moment, might even buy it as an ornament.

seen a few on ebay usa but the postage is a real killer, or they wont post to the uk grrrrrrrrrr

i can get the through hub michigan 12 x 23 but nobody says if they are good or bad & that one
would cost me $165 us incl postage as its near to me.

the rakers are way too expensive from the usa once postage is added on.

phill

Shut off the motor to shift. Cav. plate 3" high is still surface-piercing. Never heard of a good Michigan prop
in this era. Stiletto (designed by Jim Booe) is very good but pitch is typically on the low end of the needed
range. Forget Solas.

[Ron Hill]

Several things, OMC 3 bangers have a heavy flywheel. So, they don't slow down quickly. When running a solid hub prop on an OMC gearcase, it is best to start the motor in gear, but if you allow the motor to "IDLE DOWN" it can be shifted with a solid hub prop. There is actually, little give in a rubber hub prop. The major factor for gearcase damage with a solid hub prop is the fact that when you drop them in gear: A. They are larger pitches and diameters B. They bite the water harder.

[Smokin' Joe]

Several things, OMC 3 bangers have a heavy flywheel. So, they don't slow down quickly. When running a solid hub prop on an OMC gearcase, it is best to start the motor in gear, but if you allow the motor to "IDLE DOWN" it can be shifted with a solid hub prop. There is actually, little give in a rubber hub prop. The major factor for gearcase damage with a solid hub prop is the fact that when you drop them in gear: A. They are larger pitches and diameters B. They bite the water harder.

I wouldn't shift a 75 while running, Ron, old buddy! Ran them for years, still do. Can't idle slow enough to get me to do that. CLUNK!

[Ron Hill]

I "GIVE" as I know where 2-3 Nitro case motors are, all with broken gearcase........and from now on, anyone whos buys a solid hub cleaver from be will be warned of possible damage.

Off the subject, but did you ever shift and electric shift going wide open? Jimmy Jost used to "MEMO BILL" me a motor every year when I raced for Evinrude.....NOT OMC, NOT JOHNSON, but EVINRUDE. I'm going down the Colorado River, near Needles, wide open, and I punched in "R" just for fun...christ, the motor tilted up, almost came in the boat, boat spun around because there was no motor in the water.....I never tried it again...Next year, the new motor didn't have electric shift....come to think about it, i NEVER had a NITRO Case on that boat!..15 foot Sonny Levi, "X" race boat called "The Splendid Splinter", cable steering, and hours and hours of fun!

[phillnjack]

I am learning so much on this forum, especialy here about props.
Never even thought about how aggresive the over hubs are.
I never knew a surface piercing prop was anygood for holeshot neither.

phill

[Fastjeff57]

Though I run a gear shift motor, I always start her up in gear (after warming her up in neutral).

Good habit to get into.

Jeff

PS: If you have a "normal" remote control, of course, it won't allow that. A bit of wire jumping eliminates that.

[phillnjack]

yes i thought of that.
maybe a sepearate switch just for starting gear, or taking off the nutral switch.

All these things are a bit alien to me, but all making very good sense.

the more info im getting the more it sounds like im gonna be going a bit quicker.


earlier in this topic someone stated that i might need to trim 1/2 inch off the diameter of a prop ive seen .
can this simply be taking 1/2 inch from the tips and running with flat edged blades, or would this need to
be completely re-done at a prop shop, i do know how to balance props, but im no expert.
would the 1/2 extra make such a bad difference to me ?


phill

[Smokin' Joe]

I "GIVE" as I know where 2-3 Nitro case motors are, all with broken gearcase........and from now on, anyone whos buys a solid hub cleaver from be will be warned of possible damage.

Off the subject, but did you ever shift and electric shift going wide open? Jimmy Jost used to "MEMO BILL" me a motor every year when I raced for Evinrude.....NOT OMC, NOT JOHNSON, but EVINRUDE. I'm going down the Colorado River, near Needles, wide open, and I punched in "R" just for fun...christ, the motor tilted up, almost came in the boat, boat spun around because there was no motor in the water.....I never tried it again...Next year, the new motor didn't have electric shift....come to think about it, i NEVER had a NITRO Case on that boat!..15 foot Sonny Levi, "X" race boat called "The Splendid Splinter", cable steering, and hours and hours of fun!

No one in EP or SE shifted with motor running back then. Yu get used to it, no problemo. We did the
same with the 140 with a cleaver but I don't want to throw a match in the gas here!

No one in SST60 shifts with motor running today, no one in SST45 either!!!