Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
I have also used laquer thinner but prefer acetone because of its quicker dry time. I have not heard of the acetone causing bonding problems.
Here are some resources that support acetone
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how...berglass-resin
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/surface-preparation/
Here they use acetone for the repair
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsoKAHU5xUw
There are other resources outthere but looks like acetone is ok.
Well i did use the acetone in the end, i thought many people say to use it, so gave it a try.
I let it dry for a good while first though, and then went ahead and done a bit of work to it.
I put an extra layer oof glass on the transon before i fitted the transom boards and then put another layer
over the top of it all and ofcourse tabbed it all in very good.
There is a couple of tiny little bits i need to get done tommorow,but bad light as stopped ply for today ha ha .
I am well suprised at how strong it is already and i have not even done the white superstrucutre yet with its board.
I do have a slight problem though and tommorow hope to have a dry fit before putting wood on the white shell.
I have an idea im gonna not have enough room for it to go back on by the time if fit the next bit of ply to the white shell.
This is going to need a good bit of thinking about, as i have to have the two shells fitting like they originaly were.
I am hoping that i do not have to put a thinner piece of ply on the white and realy want to stick to the 1/2 inch
and not have to go down to 9mm to make it all fit.
It seems the extra layers were just a bit too much for the gap, but its dont now and no going back ha ha .
ive just worked it out and ive gone about 4 layers of mat and resin, originaly it was just 1 thin layer !!!!!!
so i have probably made it about 1/4 inch thicker !!!!!!!!!
The hull is so much stronger now than it originaly was, even without the top shell fitted.
Atleast now i am very confident that my 60 hp evinrude will be fine hanging on the back of this boat.
After a dry fit tommorow and if all is well i can get on and put down a couple of layers on the hull floor/blige, this
will make the hull even more rigid.
I have also strengthened the rear corners of the boat as they were a bit crap to be honest, the makers had used
scraps of fibreglass and not realy big enough so i have made sure these areas are also strong now.
I pretty happy with how its turning out, its not as pretty as many ive seen on the forums,but its not a mess neither.
its definitely 100% better than the day it was made.
Now i know im jumping the gun a bit, but when the top all goes back on is there any hard and fast rules to
do this a certain way ???
I am thinking of getting the top almost on and keeping it about 3 inches above the lip and then just putting in 2 layes of
cloth all around the lip and making sure its realy wet then just letting top come down and rest on it with its own weight
and maybe put a few bolts through it as well !!!!!!!!
at the back of the boat the last 1 foot of the inner white shell was supposed to originaly been fibreglassed to the
hull, but again it was not fibreglassed at all .
I plan on checking the gap to see if i can put a layer or two between the 2 shells when it gets lowered onto
the hull seam.
phill..
When you put the top back on consider polyester filler type putty for filling gaps and structural bonding inlieu of the fiberglass cloth that you suggest. See link below. You sand and clean both mating surfaces real well wipe down with acetone, apply a thick layer of the putty and put the top on then bolt thru with SS bolt and nut. Could pre drill all holes and even countersink the top and use flat head bolt for a neater appearance.
Look here at the 345 product for what I suggest as a type of product
http://www.lbifiberglass.com/FAIRCOMPFILL/faircomp.html
are now thats not a bad idea at all,sort of polyester filler paste.
The reason i was going tu use the csm and resin is becase thats how it originaly was stuck together and was in good shape all round the two halves.
I only have a small lip about 1 inch wide to put this on and then the heavy duty rubber fender goes over it .
i have thought about using nuts and bolts like you suggest to just make sure i get it all even and done in one go .
the two seams with be ultra clean for sure,all the old crap was and is still being ground off completely.
i know that a lot of places over here use the csm and fold it in half then wet it out so it stands up a touch before being compressed down while being put together.
But the paste idea sounds a lot easier and would be a lot easier to apply and probably get a better bond.
Would this type of past be strong though, as when the foam goes back in that will put the bond under a bit of pressure, ?
can i just mix up a lot of chopped strands with resin and make this type of thing as i dont think we get that over here in the uk, and anything shipped to us is crazy on the postage.
Postage to uk from usa is what stops a lot of buying from usa,its tripled in the lat 18 months.
But i realy do like the idea of a paste to use,it would make life a lot easier.
any idea how thick it would need to be as this if i can find some will probbaly not be cheap.
phill
Can you get cabisil (silica powder) filler? It is used to thicken polyester and epoxy resin. You could also add the fine chopped glass cloth. As far as a bond that will hold when you pump in the foam is the reasion I would use the bolts. Polyester sets pretty quick and that would be an issue to secure the top to the bottom over such a long perimeter near 26 feet. In using the polyester putty or the cloth method you suggest you need extra hands to apply and drop the top. Because there will be little time with polyester setup thus to secure with bolts I suggest have a bunch of clamps and secure top to bottom with them every foot or so then come back after bond set and secure with the bolts. All the pre drilled holes will have to be cleaned out again due to the putty that will be there or better yet don't predrill them and do all the drilling after the clamps removed and the filler has set. I would do a bolt and nut about 8" on center and would countersink the bolt in the top cap.
Consider using the polyester filler used in auto body repair that will also work in this application and it should be available in the UK. I would think that when secured with bolts there will not be a seperation issue and the product being polyester based is compatable with that peoducts you are using.
I fully get the shipping bit from US to UK.
i know what you mean about getting it done quickly due to set up.
the lip around the boat is just over 33ft.
today i shall look around and see what i can order, before ido i will try to find the cabisil stuff or a similar type thing.
all this advice is good,stops me making terrible mistakes ha ha ha
phill
Since time is a constraint an epoxy based filler would be the ideal choice due to a longer set up time and a stronger bond, maybe you can find some local. You don't need much and the extra cost here could be worth it. You can also use the cabisil to thicken the liquid epoxy to the needed mayonaise type consistency.
Ok i will look up about epoxy type stuff to use,i think the place o got my glass and resin does an epoxy filler,i will
go on their site and have a look now and post what i think they sell that might be ok for me.
phill
Hi guys
a friend has come up with some stuff thats used mainly in the building trade,
its a 2 component styrene free EPOXY ACRYLATE RESIN.?????
now this stuff comes in tubes and is used with a gun, its about the same sort of consistancy and silocone thats
used for bathrooms etc and goes abosolutely rock hard within 20 minutes.
the nozzle for the stuff actualy mixes it for you, it starts at the bottom of nozzle 2 different colours and at the
end its a sort of dark green.
the site about the stuff says good for concrete and solid surfaces.
is epoxy acrylate resin thats styrene free ok to use for the bonding of the hull to superstructure ?
it realy does seem very very tuff stuff, or will it damage the fibreglass in any way
hope somebody knows if this is ok for me to use
phill..
You got me on that one? Hope somebody else chimes in for you
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks