FD-53 Acquired

[R Austin]

The rods in those older motors have a tencency to kreep and bind when rolled by hand. This does not happen when running because they will self center but is un-nerving when setting up.
I have found that aftermarket large end roller are not good. When setting up my 6 I had purchased some aftermarket rollers from the S company and found that it appeared I was missing a roller. Could not put in another roller. Got checking the size of the aftermarket roller and found them to be 2-10 thousands under size. given the number of rollers, this amounts a considerable gap increase and that is where the crank journal under load wants to go.
As for using later model rods, they changed the wrist pin size in the mid to late 60's and the piston does not have enough stock.

Also attached a new previously unreleased Beast photo.

[Gene East]

Dick,

I echo Steve's comment. I can't wait either.

Beautiful workmanship!!!

[smittythewelder]

The "good rods" are what Quincy Welding used to sell as "SS rods," right? That look like the ordinary no-holes, copper coated rods, except for the rounded heads on the bolts, and the rod caps spot-faced for those bolt heads, right? Nobody has yet referred to them as "SS rods," but that's what I recall from all those years ago.

[John Schubert T*A*R*T]

The "good rods" are what Quincy Welding used to sell as "SS rods," right? That look like the ordinary no-holes, copper coated rods, except for the rounded heads on the bolts, and the rod caps spot-faced for those bolt heads, right? Nobody has yet referred to them as "SS rods," but that's what I recall from all those years ago.

That's correct but they also were available from Mercury as a service part from later Merc models. I got mine from Dick O'Dea as he was a Merc racing dealer.

[BJuby]

Anyone have a picture of one of these rods? I would be very interested to see.

[Gene East]

That's correct but they also were available from Mercury as a service part from later Merc models. I got mine from Dick O'Dea as he was a Merc racing dealer.

Thanks John and Smitty,

I was hoping someone could state with confidence these rods were available through Mercury. I felt certain they were; however, I never heard of them being called "SS". Makes sense though!

[BJuby]

When the engine arrived it had the top two head bolts uninstalled. This was because the engine has an extra piece of aluminum block attached there, with longer head bolts. It's kind of kinda a "water rail" and has a brass 45 degree fitting facing upward as a tell tail. I was installing it and placing one of the bolts in and it literally just slid in. No threads . Blew some compressed air and I got a little bit of aluminum thread debris. What is the solution, retap, helicoil? I assume because this is a head bolt hole it needs to be in good shape to allow for torquing.

Looking for thoughts on this. Thanks

[Gene East]

I would install the longest practical heli-coil I could find.

[BJuby]

I received a bunch of carter carbs a couple weeks ago. Got a good look at the, today and found two that are matching bodies. A couple were converted to floatless already. I used the very informative posts in the How Fast Will a 6 Looper Go thread about floatless Carters (love this website). I checked the sizes of standpipes, fuel entry and overflow fittings making sure they are the same between the two carbs. I know I read somewhere that the size of carb overflow fittings (fuel out) were different in size than fuel-in fittings. I couldn't find the post. Here are some photos of some of the parts I am planning on using to replace the Tillotson WB1A carbs that came with the engine.

Also forgot to add. One of the floatless converted carbs, serial number indicating it was a 20H carter, was marked FD in one spot (same as Quincy font) and Bud Parker stamped in two places.

[Gene East]

Did it say Bud Parker or Dub Parker? Both were well known in alky racing