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Thread: Any mods for a '12 Evinrude Etec 60

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris3298 View Post
    Put a tach on the motor you'll be surprised on what you're actually running and what you think you're running as far as rpms. I would work with the setup of that boat and motor, all these guys here will tell ya they have spent hours and hours on the water testing to get every mph out of there boat. I say play with setup and learn from your current boat, learn all you can then when you feel you have gone as far as you can then try a different boat. I did this with a 14 carolina skiff and a 50 tohatsu, it was a great learning experience but at the same time depressing because i wasn't happy with it but I learned a lot about hooks and rockers from that boat. I learned if that bottom isn't perfectly straight it will bounce.

    Power-tech props will let you buy a prop and if you're not happy with it you can return it for another prop now you can't modify it in anyway now, they have to be able to resell it.
    Agreed. One question, does power-tech offer higher than a 17 pitch prop for that class motor. The scb style prop is a good fast jonboat prop.

  2. #12
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    I haven't checked on the power tech props yet. Looking for a Yamaha style semi cleaver or drag to try and see what happens. Haven't tried a chopper prop either. Figured I needed something with a little more stern lift and maybe a smaller
    Diameter for faster spin up but I don't know if such a wheel exists.

  3. #13
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    I'm not sure if they do but you can take it to someone and have the pitch changed but I was told the pitch would only be changed at the tips of the blades, to truly change the pitch the blades would have to be cut off then rewelded back on to give you that true pitch, I am going by only what i have heard.

  4. #14
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    Man I'd hate to take a brand new cast prop and cut the blades of and somebody re-weld em!! I've got a Miller TIG but I'd be afraid to try that! Figure a Yamaha style semi cleaver would keep my stern lifted and reduce the bounce while I trimmed but I'm a newbie and haven't tried but bow lifters

  5. #15
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    Put a straight edge on the bottom your boat and you can see if you have any hooks and rockers instead of pouring money into props

  6. #16
    phillnjack
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    if you hqave a tog welder you could make an awsome jack plate for your boat.
    Plus if the BRP racker prop could be changed by a good prop man to get you more pitch and less diameter easy.
    I have a post going about the props being cut down etc and have heard about a few who have had success with it.
    I know a few people with rakers and they love em, many say they are pretty fast props and get the boats realy
    moving once spinning.
    If you are hitting 40mph with an 18 inch pitch then the engine is doing good and must be over revving.
    it has toi be around 6200 plus to get that speed from your gear ratio, so maybe a little tweak on the prop by one of the prop men could make it a touch quicker as well.

    i think like chris3298 says, you need to look under the boat and check a few things before getting another prop.
    once you know exactly what your dealing with then check out ron hill's props and let him know what your boat
    does and what you want from it.

    many many people on here and other forums love his props and say they have worked realy good for them .



    phill

  7. #17
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    You really don't even need a tig welder to build a jack plate all it if is some angle aluminum and some bolts.

  8. #18
    phillnjack
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    if you dont have a few butt welds inside the corners then alloy angle will break.
    go look on the net and see how many high price jack plates and set backs have snapped !!!!!!
    quite a few of the hefty priced bobs jack plates have been broken,some on the welds and some on the corners.
    A few bits of weld would make it more rigid and definitely stronger and safer.

    I always like a bit of over kill to be safe ha ha .

    [I]I myself need a jack plate,ill experiment with heavy steel angle at first (thats all ive got at present) then once
    i have what i want, i would like it made in either stainless or alloy with a few strength welded bits inside it.
    then i might see an extra 3 or 4 mph maybe ?[/
    I]
    but if the holeshot suffers too much ill be back down again ha ha

    phill

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by phillnjack View Post
    if you dont have a few butt welds inside the corners then alloy angle will break.
    go look on the net and see how many high price jack plates and set backs have snapped !!!!!!
    quite a few of the hefty priced bobs jack plates have been broken,some on the welds and some on the corners.
    A few bits of weld would make it more rigid and definitely stronger and safer.

    I always like a bit of over kill to be safe ha ha .

    [I]I myself need a jack plate,ill experiment with heavy steel angle at first (thats all ive got at present) then once
    i have what i want, i would like it made in either stainless or alloy with a few strength welded bits inside it.
    then i might see an extra 3 or 4 mph maybe ?[/
    I]
    but if the holeshot suffers too much ill be back down again ha ha

    phill
    Dude i have never seen a aluminum jack plate break, and i have had many of them over the years, u dont break them,,,, but go ahead and put u a heavy steel angle jack plate on there and see what happens, u can tell u dont know much,,,, your a spoon bill
    Let it all Hang out

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    Quote Originally Posted by phillnjack View Post
    if you dont have a few butt welds inside the corners then alloy angle will break.

    phill
    That jack plate must cost under $50 to break, I don't think that a 60 will ever break a 3/8in aluminum jack plate. I wouldn't touch it with a welder either. I'm not sure if aluminum can be heat treated like steel but when you go welding on something like that, you can mess with its strength.

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