3 cyl Merc 40

[HankFrazier]

Tryin to post a little video but it's sayin BRF database error.. For a tach u might look on Greatlakesskipper.com. Or ebay has several. Can't remember how many 8k there are tho. I'm sure they're out there

allway's keep in mind no matter what type of rig you run EVERY POUND SLOWES YOU DOWN.

[Merc50]

allway's keep in mind no matter what type of rig you run EVERY POUND SLOWES YOU DOWN.

This is true! A jack plate might give you some
Set back but it added 30 pounds. IMO the key to adding things like that is find somewhere else that you can cut half of what your adding. For instance when I added a jack plate I trashed my old conventional marine battery for a agm battery and more than compensated for the weight of the jAck plate. That made the plate and the battery worth having in my opinion

[Cajun Special]

I have the setback I have to move the center of gravity back. So I don't have to over trim to lift the bow on top end. I gained 8 mph when I did this. Before I had motor ported or anything. I can take out my 70lb agm trollin battery and put a 5lb ridin mower battery and I gain 0 mph. I think I need to sand the bottom of my boat or somthin like I've seen others talk about here. Seem to hit another mph wall. I'm turnin rpm's but prop slip is still way high. This stuff is so effin frustrating but I like messin with my boat haha

[pdt]

got to agree on the weight stuff.
the very plainest of boats do seem to be the quickest .

[Cajun Special]

No doubt. I could just bolt my motor directly to a 12ft tin can with a 12x23p cleaverbut I can't fish out of one of them!

[HGipson]

Alright back on the drawing board. What's y'all's favorite or preferred type of oil to run in these motors? Had several guys throw Klotz outboard oil and that's the direction I think I'm gonna go. Have had a few guys that use to race the 260's and 300's say they used Pennzoil full synthetic. Either way wanting to run a synthetic oil since my motor is good and broke in and ready to roll

[HGipson]

Also 11.25 or 12" diameter props for speed on these rigs? I am gonna be running it on the same ole duck boat with the same setup we've been discussing. I may break down and buy a atlas hydraulic mini jacker for it this spring just to make it a little quicker and a lot more useful in shallow water. Currently still have the 15 pitch Merc vengeance stock prop on it. Going to get some More cup added to it for a better bite in turns and with loads in the boat. So far so good though this motor has been seamless!! And finally lightened the flywheel the other day!! Found a good spare crankshaft so we chucked it the up in the lathe w flywheel attached and went to work. I can notice a difference already!

[pdt]

with a lightened flywheel the idle will be poor, as too will be trolling !!!!!
lightened is only good for acceleration, no gain in top end at all.
regards oil... synthetic is not as good for lubrication due to synthetic being flammable and it burns more !!!!!
for the engine life stick to normal outboard 2 stroke oil, quicksilver for example.
your not wanting to be rebuilding the engine every 20 hours , so be careful what your doing, its ok going fast, but there is a huge price to pay for it.
most people n here racing their engines getting mega high performance are willing to sacrifice pistons and rings.. are you prepared for this, or do you
want it to be a long lasting reliable engine? if so stick to good old fashioned 2 stroke oil at around 50 to 1 or if going over 6,000 rpm 32-1.

have you got a tacho fitted yet to see what rpm's your turning ?
.

[HGipson]

We'll this motor must be a freak of Mercury then because it didn't change my idle harldy any and it will run all day long. Last time I checked all 2 stroke motor oil was flammable.... Kinda the point if it wasn't flammable the motor wouldn't run and/or there would be "nonflammable oil" running out of every hole in it. Racing guys have told me to break one in with good ole fashioned petro based oil and after about 10-15 hrs throw in the full synthetic for turning over 6000-7000 rpm. A friend of mine on here runs the Klotz oil and said they've seen broken down motors that had 1200 + hrs of over running time and looked spotless w little wear. The point of the oil being flammable is to reduce carbon buildup these engines don't have 300-400 lbs of compression required to completely burn oil like a Diesel engine can so they'll carbon up. The synthetic from what I've read helps reduce it and doesn't break down as quickly at higher rpm

[omcstratos]

with a lightened flywheel the idle will be poor, as too will be trolling !!!!!
lightened is only good for acceleration, no gain in top end at all.
regards oil... synthetic is not as good for lubrication due to synthetic being flammable and it burns more !!!!!
for the engine life stick to normal outboard 2 stroke oil, quicksilver for example.
your not wanting to be rebuilding the engine every 20 hours , so be careful what your doing, its ok going fast, but there is a huge price to pay for it.
most people n here racing their engines getting mega high performance are willing to sacrifice pistons and rings.. are you prepared for this, or do you
want it to be a long lasting reliable engine? if so stick to good old fashioned 2 stroke oil at around 50 to 1 or if going over 6,000 rpm 32-1.

have you got a tacho fitted yet to see what rpm's your turning ?
.

We'll this motor must be a freak of Mercury then because it didn't change my idle harldy any and it will run all day long. Last time I checked all 2 stroke motor oil was flammable.... Kinda the point if it wasn't flammable the motor wouldn't run and/or there would be "nonflammable oil" running out of every hole in it. Racing guys have told me to break one in with good ole fashioned petro based oil and after about 10-15 hrs throw in the full synthetic for turning over 6000-7000 rpm. A friend of mine on here runs the Klotz oil and said they've seen broken down motors that had 1200 + hrs of over running time and looked spotless w little wear. The point of the oil being flammable is to reduce carbon buildup these engines don't have 300-400 lbs of compression required to completely burn oil like a Diesel engine can so they'll carbon up. The synthetic from what I've read helps reduce it and doesn't break down as quickly at higher rpm

Nothing personal here, but I would listen a little more to someone else that actually runs these modded motors, or Hydrotec rather than someone that runs a stock 60hp OMC at 5500 rpms on a 1200lb skiff.