Other hobby

[88workcar]

A cousin of mine introduced me to Rat Rods. I am building my first and enjoying it quite a bit. It turns out that with the other filming that has been going on in our nice little town, some those guys asked to come to my shop too. That was flattering also. Mine should be complete in a couple more weeks.IMG_6234.jpgIMG_6235.jpgIMG_6236.jpgIMG_6238.jpg

[88workcar]

IMG_6387.jpgIMG_6384.jpgIMG_6383.jpgIMG_6376.jpga few more in no certain order

[ProHydroRacer]

Very Kool!

[88workcar]

IMG_5979.jpgIMG_6245.jpgA few more

[88workcar]

The engine is a 502 GM crate motor. I bought the first one and it had two cracked heads and a washed out block (where the head was cracked) I called the seller and he said come get another one. That one had a bad crank. So between the two I had enough stuff to build a motor and a complete set to build a mock up motor. The one in the frame is all the junk parts. The front axle was not working no matter which way I had itright side up or upside down. It needed to be strait, so I cut it and welded it. My first big obstical was gone and from there it just snowballs.

[88workcar]

IMG_1459.jpgIMG_6943.jpgIMG_9740.jpgmore pictures

[88workcar]

IMG_0955.jpgIMG_8154.jpglast ones for now

[Yellowjacket]

I think that radiator grill is aptly named...

You really need to rethink that front suspension.

I realize what you are trying to do, but what you've got there has adverse roll steer (I would say roll oversteer, but that is usually associated with rear axles and this is a front axle) and it is going to handle really funny... With the layout you have, as the spring deflects the distance between the front mount and the spring attachment to the axle gets shorter on the outside of the turn and longer on the inside. That results in roll steer into the corner. When you move the wheel a little bit the car will want to turn more, and the more it rolls, the more it will try to turn...

There's a reason that classic rods use a dropped front axle with proper location (springs under the axle and shackles at the rear)... You've got a boat load of power there and that front end is going to result in it being darty, since the more the body rolls the more it will try to turn into the turn by itself... It's going to be strange to say the least...

You also should calculate where the roll center is for the front suspension and make sure it is equal or lower to the rear roll center. I don't see the lateral linkage for the rear suspension so I can't comment on where that is. Way back when, American cars had the front roll center lower than the back, but the Europeans stopped doing that by the late 70's and went to a horizontal roll center. The height of the roll center determines how much body roll you have and whether or not the car lifts its wheels or jacks (like an old VW) when you go around a corner.

Cars are fun, but, as I said you have a lot of power available and if you aren't careful, things can get dangerous...

[88workcar]

Thanks yellow, I was warned about this early on. When I cut and flipped the front the spindle angles were held exactly at the stock location. That part didn't change. Only the middle of the axle. I simply removed the drop and made it into a strait axle. Unless I am not understanding something here. It will have shocks and pad and ect.. when it is done. The rear is a home made 4 link. Pinion set at -3 and a cross bar on the lower arms. It will be tested quite a bit before I jump off in it. I have installed brand new disc brakes on all 4 corners. The wonderful part is that if it don't work, changing is easy. I do apreciate the advice.

[88workcar]

The cab is a 46 chevy, the back fenders are actually the front fenders from a 41 Pontiac. The tail lights are 1960 Ford. The front axle is a 50 Ford. Yellow, I keep reading your post. Do I need some type of sway bar or something to keep the axle centaly located to the frame? is that what you mean?