Georgia, it all goes to Steve.
Georgia, it all goes to Steve.
If this engine is to be a runner as well as a display motor, when you are grinding for clearance for the rod big-end, I don't think "just enough" IS enough. The crank/rods are going to "grow" a bit when the engine is wound up. Maybe cut out a long, very narrow strip of sheet shim-stock (the experts here could tell you how much clearance you want, but I think it would be fairly substantial) spray some bluing on it, lay it in the bottom of a rod channel, and then see where you're at. Gene? Mike? Steve?
The late Smokey Yunick once described a dyno run of a Chevy racemotor that was conducted under stroboscopic lighting so that the action could be slowed down and made visible to the mechanics. It was a sobering sight! Smokey said that the camshaft looked like a snake trying to squirm its way out of the engine, and every other part was wriggling and winding up and releasing in the most alarming fashion. This is why you might have .028-.035" clearance between the piston top and the head in a cold motor, so that when the engine is working hard you'll still have something more than zero clearance. I'm guessing your rod channels should be looked at in the same way.
Many years ago, when my Dad got our first NEW A Flathead, after it arrived at his shop the rods would not pass as well as he wanted. After talking to O. F., he told me how we were going to make the correct clearance.................crank it! Worked like a charm and we ran that engine for a long, long time before we had to touch it.
Charley Bradley
Brutus makes the best tools, lol
Old Race Boats Still Flip You Out
Steve told me a similar story about O.F. telling him the same thing about his A looper. But you can't be too careful with a rare irreplaceable engine.
Charley, I'm glad you posted this. I was going to do so, but was concerned someone would think I was nuts!
I've seen a lot of crank cases with shiny spots in them.
However, I do understand Brandon's concern in this area. Sadly, his motor (or any other Looper; for that matter) will never be competitive in it's new lifetime, so who cares if it's a little loose?
Brandon, thank you for restoring these wonderful old motors. Yes; I know, technically they are engines but the word motor implies something warm and lovable like a Lab puppy.
Engine sounds cold and sterile.
I loved my Labs and I love those old motors built at 5th & State!
Coming together. The Fairbanks ignition is a placeholder for now. Just have to get the throttle brackets installed. I plan on making a spray shield for it as well. I have a foot for it, just need to complete the rebuild. Have the 16:21 gears for it.
First video of it's first start in probably 40 years or more. This is with gas this time out. I need to get some methnol Thanks to Steve Litzell for his tremendous effort and expertise helping to get this thing built. I will probably start the "B" next and then the "D". The "D" will likely be the first one run on a boat later this season.
EDIT: Look to the next page.
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