sidewinder and hotrods now being built by a race car part company?

[champ20B]

I have heard that sidewinder has partnered with jesel parts co. to make sidewinder engine stuff. But I also heard talk of a new hotrod being part of the line up. All I would like to know is if the actual rotary valve HR is actually being produced again, or if this is just a few parts for them and nothing else ( as far as a whole hotrod engine goes). Will they be just 15cid or will they include 20cid? I wonder if an old Hotrod 20cid can be upgraded (modernized) with COMPLETE parts availability now.

[zul8tr]

Suggest you contact Sidewinder Developer Ron Selewach at:

http://www.racingoutboards.com/

[champ20B]

Suggest you contact Sidewinder Developer Ron Selewach at:

http://www.racingoutboards.com/

I tried to Email a long while back when I bought a real nice classic Hotrod "BU" motor. Its internals was redone by Cooper Jess. I never heard nothing back about replacement or upgrade stuff though from sidewinder. I think I tried to contact them twice as I remember.

Anyway, I imagine Ron Selewach gets more Emails than most would want to deal with. I don't want to bother unless Im buying and that's not possible for me right now. Luckily, I found a Y-80 that I got for 300.00 and I went through it. I decided that that would be a better engine for B-Mod someday. It would still be nice to set up my Hotrod though If I knew I could replace parts on it more readily. The 20 HR motors are so dam rare its ridiculous. One could hardly get parts for them. And no fellas...........I aint selling it!!! Always wanted one, now Im happily stuck with it!!

By the way......I made a piston stop for my Yamato to time it with in the future. I took a 18mm spark plug extendor and drilled and tapped for a threaded bolt through it. The way it works is by using it to find a center point on the wheel. Take out the stop and put the wheel to to TDC. Then put the stop back in and run the bolt in gently until it contacts the piston. Then take the stop out and measure it. Add (.200) to it and put a lock nut on it to keep it as such. Set both points at (.016) exactly to ensure 180 degree firing as close as possible, and timing will be easy and quick with the new piston stop. These aluminum plug extendors are available at Pep-Boys auto parts stores and others and are easy to make a piston stop with.

[zul8tr]

I tried to Email a long while back when I bought a real nice classic Hotrod "BU" motor. Its internals was redone by Cooper Jess. I never heard nothing back about replacement or upgrade stuff though from sidewinder. I think I tried to contact them twice as I remember. .................................................. .........

By the way......I made a piston stop for my Yamato to time it with in the future. I took a 18mm spark plug extendor and drilled and tapped for a threaded bolt through it. The way it works is by using it to find a center point on the wheel. Take out the stop and put the wheel to to TDC. Then put the stop back in and run the bolt in gently until it contacts the piston. Then take the stop out and measure it. Add (.200) to it and put a lock nut on it to keep it as such. Set both points at (.016) exactly to ensure 180 degree firing as close as possible, and timing will be easy and quick with the new piston stop. These aluminum plug extendors are available at Pep-Boys auto parts stores and others and are easy to make a piston stop with.

As I noted to you in a PM both points set at the same does not guarantee a 180 degree apart timing to fire plug. This is due to tolerances and wear in the mag and points pivot post and further aggravated by not locking down the mag swing and leaving it movable as designed. Also since there is a point gap tolerance of 0.012" to 0.016" for the Y80 (and 102) yamato using the upper limit reduces coil dwell and spark intensity. I set new points closer to the lower end of the range.

Here is how Ric Montoya sets the mag on the Y80 and the 102 engines, dial indicator and buzz box. Note step 10 is a final point adjustment for the 2 nd cylinder timing to get the points to fire at the desired piston position to guarantee the 180 degree apart firing.

http://www.yamatoracing.net/technical_entry.php?pid=8

As a final timing check with a dial indicator I have placed timing tics for TDC , 0.18", 0.20" and 0.22" on the rope pulley perimeter for both cylinders that are referenced to a stationary index tic mark on the engine at a small bracket placed on the fuel tank and check the timing with a 12v inductive timing light. You will note some timing variations in both cylinders at rpm due to tolerances in the engine , bearings etc. have to live with that. Lucky the Y80 power is not that sensitive to these variations.

[champ20B]

As I noted to you in a PM both points set at the same does not guarantee a 180 degree apart timing to fire plug. This is due to tolerances and wear in the mag and points pivot post and further aggravated by not locking down the mag swing and leaving it movable as designed. Also since there is a point gap tolerance of 0.012" to 0.016" for the Y80 (and 102) yamato using the upper limit reduces coil dwell and spark intensity. I set new points closer to the lower end of the range.

Here is how Ric Montoya sets the mag on the Y80 and the 102 engines, dial indicator and buzz box. Note step 10 is a final point adjustment for the 2 nd cylinder timing to get the points to fire at the desired piston position to guarantee the 180 degree apart firing.

http://www.yamatoracing.net/technical_entry.php?pid=8

As a final timing check with a dial indicator I have placed timing tics for TDC , 0.18", 0.20" and 0.22" on the rope pulley perimeter for both cylinders that are referenced to a stationary index tic mark on the engine at a small bracket placed on the fuel tank and check the timing with a 12v inductive timing light. You will note some timing variations in both cylinders at rpm due to tolerances in the engine , bearings etc. have to live with that. Lucky the Y80 power is not that sensitive to these variations.

Yes, you are right!! I went back to check the calibration of my points and they were off by just under (5) degrees. I worked with them for half an hour and got them to open precisely at the point of the piston stop I just made. My settings are about .013 and .015 give or take a little, at exactly (.20) BTDC. I'm lucky that I got it as close as I did the first time. My top bearing doesn't seem to have any play at either the X,Y movement check. It is a real nice motor. I wish there was some more info though on the future of sidewinder. I seen where some of the well known the 20SSH guys were petitioning to take the sidewinder out of that class in the last couple of months. I don't know what the status of that is now, but I don't think a 20s would be a threat to a good Y80 let along the restricted 102-302.
Also, I ordered some NGK B10EGV plugs you recommended. THANKS!!

[zul8tr]

If you want to see the real time mag issues do the timing light like I noted. Make sure the B10EGV plugs do not protrude past the end of the adapters as well as the adapter threads not exposed into the cylinder, add shims to the adapter as needed. In my case with the adapter I had to trim the exposed end a bit and place the 18MM copper washer on the 18mm end of the adapter at the head and not use the 14mm squish washers for the plug to the adapter. Also try indexing the plugs and adapter to find the best fit of the 4 combinations you can try to get the ground electrode tip to point to the general direction of the intake side. When determined put a paint dab on the plug and adapter for the correct cylinder.

[champ20B]

If you want to see the real time mag issues do the timing light like I noted. Make sure the B10EGV plugs do not protrude past the end of the adapters as well as the adapter threads not exposed into the cylinder, add shims to the adapter as needed. In my case with the adapter I had to trim the exposed end a bit and place the 18MM copper washer on the 18mm end of the adapter at the head and not use the 14mm squish washers for the plug to the adapter. Also try indexing the plugs and adapter to find the best fit of the 4 combinations you can try to get the ground electrode tip to point to the general direction of the intake side. When determined put a paint dab on the plug and adapter for the correct cylinder.

I got my plugs I ordered over the weekend in today. The way I have them fitted is that the bottom of both the adaptor and plug threads are about flush with each other. The ground/electrode tip does hang down below the adaptor and plug combo...(same as with just the plug in reference). Now I need to measure the thread depth in the heads and compare it to the thread height of my adaptors to make sure that they are not going below that depth when installed, does that sound about right? Or should the electrode not be below the adaptor as well? This is a first for me!
Also, indexing the direction of the plugs is a great idea!! I wouldn't have thought of that! Ill try it!

[zul8tr]

The outer ring of the plug where the ground electrode is welded needs to be flush with the outer surface of the adapter, this places the ground electrode and firing tip protruding into the cylinder when installed. The outer ring of the adapter needs to be flush with the inside combustion chamber at the same location as it was with the original 18mm plug outer ring to prevent adapter threads from being exposed into the combustion chamber hot gasses. In my Y80 I used the original thick copper washer on the adapter to get the right depth because the NGK plugs are deeper reach than the original 18mm . I also did not use the squish washer on the 14mm plug into the adapter. You need to trial fit the adapter and plug to the cylinder.

AS for indexing if you get the ground electrode tip to point in the general direction of the intake in a 30 degree +/- either side of the center intake port is OK. that is the best you can do unless you have an assortment of various thickness index washers that fit the 18mm adapter threaded area.

If you still have questions send me pics to look at.