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Thread: An aluminum outboard hydro?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Master Oil Racing Team View Post
    Pierre Deisertenne had an all aluminum hydro at the UIM World Championships at Dayton, Ohio in 1978. Bill Kurps is correct in what he says. I have photos of Pierre working on the bottom before the races, and other photos, just haven't had time to scan and post them yet. Pierre had some success racing in Europe, but I don't know if it was with the Aluminum hydro. Had one pic in my computer until it crashed last year. It is someplace here already on BRF. Probably in Random Shots of the Pits, but I will post it again and maybe others when I get a chance.


    Wayne:

    Have no idea whether this is the same person or not, but the spelling is very similar. A driver with a very similar name ran the Formula 1 tour that was on TV for several years recently and was from France, although a good number of years had passed since his Dayton adventures of course if it is/was the same driver.

  2. #22
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    Hi everyone it seems some of you may think I'm somebody else. I'm a new member to this site from the Uk, I'm planning on building an all aluminium picklefork to run my anzani 350 racer on. I'm not planning on racing it just using for a bit of fun. I'm in need of some info on the sponsons and then I can get to work. I've been looking all over the net for some info but I can't seem to find anything😞. Hopefully one of you gentlemen can help me out. Many thanks all the very best Dan

  3. #23
    David Weaver David Weaver's Avatar
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    Perhaps the lack of information as to aluminum hydroplanes (and relevant plans) is an indicator that one should consider a different direction. I would suggest wood and/or a wood composite mix. Keep it lighter, bouyant and easily repairable!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Danielking View Post
    Hi everyone it seems some of you may think I'm somebody else. I'm a new member to this site from the Uk, I'm planning on building an all aluminium picklefork to run my anzani 350 racer on. I'm not planning on racing it just using for a bit of fun. I'm in need of some info on the sponsons and then I can get to work. I've been looking all over the net for some info but I can't seem to find anything😞. Hopefully one of you gentlemen can help me out. Many thanks all the very best Dan

  4. #24
    Team Member smittythewelder's Avatar
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    Glad you showed up on this site, Daniel; when the speculation got going, I should have invited you here. Anyway, tell us first about your motor. Is it a gas-and-oil stocker, an all-out alky-burning racemotor, or what? This has considerable bearing on the advice you'll get. Are you going to try to build something exotic like a prop-riding hydro, some sort of tunnel-boat (which I think the Europeans call catamarans), or a standard "tail-dragger" hydroplane, which is what is used for pretty much all PRO racing over here? I take it you don't need much info on aluminum construction, and mainly want design pointers. That's good, because as you can see there isn't much current advice to be had on how to build a structurally adequate aluminum hydro that would still be acceptably light. The boats being built today, with various amounts of advanced composites, are astoundingly light, but since you are just building what we would call (with no intent of being demeaning) a "lake-racer" or "playboat," you don't have to achieve this degree of lightness. The weight of a hydro has to be balanced by the amount of lift it has, and that is basically determined by the shape of the bottom and its width, and the depth of the sponsons. David Weaver's advice is the practical approach, and if you build in aluminum you are exploring little-known territory, but if you enjoy being a bit of a contrarian, that's great. Just be aware that when any of the famous boat-builders attempt an out-of-the-mainstream design, even if they are confident in it they will say, "This might take me two tries, two boats, to make it work."

    On your hydroracer thread you said you expected to need about a 10' 6" boat. If it were a plywood boat, and if your B Anzani is a sort of standard, single-carb alky burner with open pipes putting out around 45hp, that might be about right. One thing new guys don't know is that racers don't pay a lot of attention to overall length; for them the critical lengthwise dimension is "afterplane," the distance from the back edge of a sponson to the back edge of the bottom. For the posited Anzani of middling power, an afterplane of maybe 76" to 82" ought to be in the ballpark. On a plywood hydro of this size, the width of the bottom between the sponsons generally was in the 34-36" range. But this is where, if your aluminum boat is going to be over 150lbs, you'd want to be a couple of inches wider. Angle of attack of the aftmost 8" of the sponsons (relative to the aftmost two or three feet of the bottom (which is generally the reference line for everything else) should be around 1 1/2 degrees positive for a taildragger.

    Daniel, my information on all of this is pretty ancient, and though I think it would work for you just because it used to work, others here will surely have their own ideas and those will be more current than mine. If you were hoping to find a set of plans (for a plywood hydro) from which you could extrapolate in building your aluminum boat, you could contact Darryl Sorenson in California. Or if you want a retro-looking round-bow hydro, try to find someone with an old set of plans from Ray Ogier in Canada; either his B/CSH Hydro at 10' 6" or his DSH hydro at 11' 2" could work well for you.

    Best idea: go to a boatrace. Take your tape measure (but ask before you use it!).

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