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Thread: thoughts on this bottom mod?

  1. #21
    Administrator Ron Hill's Avatar
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    Default Don't Give Up Yet!

    Try putting a 1/2 ir 3/8 ply wood behind the transom, between the boat and the motor and try it. I think you need more weight back, if you get any speed from this boat, you'll need about 2-3 inches of set back...and a better prop.

    Also, maybe rasie the motor about an inch, and kick the motor under a half hole...Slip a 3/8 pipe over the kick out pin, which will kick the motor out, but then drop it a kick out hole.

  2. #22
    Team Member JohnsonM50's Avatar
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    If you do use plywood to pad the transom be careful to used a no void marine grade & install it with the grain horizontal. If it were to compress under pressure & vibration your clamps would then be loose.

  3. #23
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    Coupe, if your boat is running unstable at speed with a 20hp engine, here is my advise....You really don't need a pad with that particular style hull. Bass boats sometimes have a small triangular pad at the very end and center, but they are pronounced "V" bottom boats overall. Your Hal Kelly OK9 is essentially a racing style monoplane surfacing hull. it is the link between a true "V" and a hydroplane. Therefor, your boats bottom width is narrow enough as is originally. Now, since your going with a tiller steer, here is what I have done in the past. Make sure your steering tension is adjusted fairly tight. It should take just a little effort to turn the engine. This will stabilize your ride tremendously because when your running fast, the slightest swivel action of the motor will send you into a sqiurelly situation because the flat bottom boat is naturally sensitive to handling at full surface at high speed. It can be hard to avoid even holding the handle as still as you can otherwise. Next be sure to drop the throttle when turning to set the hull, then throttle up so as to make it dig into the turn. This will take getting used to and technique will develop. And finally, consider getting a center fin. Just try placing it at the balance point. You can use a broom stick or pipe and set the boat on the pipe like a see-saw with the motor attached and you in it. Wherever it balances linear, is about where the fin should go at the keel center. You can get some 2"-3" aluminum "T" stock about 1/4" thick and 9" length and make a good fin. You can even try some chine streamers/fins like jet skis use as well with it. It will run just as fast or maybe better without a pad.

  4. #24
    Team Member JohnsonM50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by champ20B View Post
    Coupe, if your boat is running unstable at speed with a 20hp engine, here is my advise....You really don't need a pad with that particular style hull. Bass boats sometimes have a small triangular pad at the very end and center, but they are pronounced "V" bottom boats overall. Your Hal Kelly OK9 is essentially a racing style monoplane surfacing hull. it is the link between a true "V" and a hydroplane. Therefor, your boats bottom width is narrow enough as is originally. Now, since your going with a tiller steer, here is what I have done in the past. Make sure your steering tension is adjusted fairly tight. It should take just a little effort to turn the engine. This will stabilize your ride tremendously because when your running fast, the slightest swivel action of the motor will send you into a sqiurelly situation because the flat bottom boat is naturally sensitive to handling at full surface at high speed. It can be hard to avoid even holding the handle as still as you can otherwise. Next be sure to drop the throttle when turning to set the hull, then throttle up so as to make it dig into the turn. This will take getting used to and technique will develop. And finally, consider getting a center fin. Just try placing it at the balance point. You can use a broom stick or pipe and set the boat on the pipe like a see-saw with the motor attached and you in it. Wherever it balances linear, is about where the fin should go at the keel center. You can get some 2"-3" aluminum "T" stock about 1/4" thick and 9" length and make a good fin. You can even try some chine streamers/fins like jet skis use as well with it. It will run just as fast or maybe better without a pad.
    I agree but didn't go there because it seemed better handling was the goal more than speed. Racers like the '9' are set up with fins for good reason. Maybe it will not only improve the handling but a speed bonus is possible. If you want to try a pad, strakes or a keel & they work it will be because of the drag. A fin has little drag & good side ways hold, getting it where it works best & used to it are the trick.

  5. #25
    Team Member JohnsonM50's Avatar
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    champ20B, That's the best description of how to set up a fin location I've read yet. A question about it, if you were going with a fixed driver position [not driving as a kneeler] do you think getting in to see where that balance point is from the seated driving position would help?

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnsonM50 View Post
    champ20B, That's the best description of how to set up a fin location I've read yet. A question about it, if you were going with a fixed driver position [not driving as a kneeler] do you think getting in to see where that balance point is from the seated driving position would help?
    That's a good question. But if I were building a fixed seat runabout for speed, I would recommend a true "V" bottom all the way. It looks like this boat was patterned after kneelers though and should be driven that way but in the case of fixed position driving, I would ditch the pad. It will likely lift the hull to where it don't get good hold and is flat itself, so it may slide still. What I would do in this case is to replace the pad with a keel streamer on the bottom. Again, aluminum "T" stock will work. I would recommend a smaller "T" that is about 3/4" deep and runs all the way from the back to the "V".....after that, I would taper (cut down) it from the "T" to just flat toward the bow. Also, I would put another streamer on each side of this center streamer that was shorter in length and relieved the same way. They would all end just shy of the trailing end of the hull. This will keep drag to a non effecting minimal for performance and really make it bank in a turn without having to jockey the boat like a kneeler.

  7. #27
    Administrator Ron Hill's Avatar
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    Default Honey Badger

    I'm just rigging the Honey Badger with a 20 HP Yamaha 4 Stroke. I copied a Japanese Gambling Boat for size but went with a PAD BOTTOM. I have made Jet Ski "FINS" to add tot he boat. I'm planning on a fixed seat....Randy Pierson bet $100 it won't plane with me in it...
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  8. #28
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    THANKS FOR ALL THE COMMENTS, I REALLY APPRECIATE IT. Ill update when I make a change.

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