2 cycle oils

**Seanp3** · 10-25-2005

What 2 cycle oils are you using. Are most of you using synthetic oils and have there been any tests that show it does a better job. Thanks for any input

**Pop990** · 10-25-2005

Lucas semi-synthetic gave us a couple hundred R's in our sst45. Bill

**Seanp3** · 10-26-2005

I just thought some might have some stories on this. My background is I have yet to race. Done a lot of boating & skiing since I was a skirt and have always used Merc 2 cyle oil. A friend of mine told me a story a couple years ago when the synthetics came out he tried it with a new snowmobile that he got and burned up the motor first time out. Its kind of stuck in the back of my mind since then. When I went to my first race at Oroville it seemed like everyone was using Amsoil. I guess it is pretty good stuff.

**Joe Silvestri 36-S** · 10-26-2005

I have been using Klotz TCW-3 Synthetic Outboard Lubricant in my Yamatos for about 6 years now. I mix the oil to the direction on the back of the container. The only problem I've had with the synthetic is when I did not follow the mixture specification on the back of the container. I mixed to much oil per gallon of gas and by the end of the season, the cylinders were glazed up in the motor not allowing the rings to seal properly, which caused a compression loss/horsepower loss. Remember, that synthetic oil is made to stick to the parts of the engine and if overmixed, or improperly mixed, it could hurt the performance of the engine. Also, I've found that the synthetics do not mix well with fogging oil, which is fine, because there is no need to fog an engine for storage when using synthetic.

The advantages I've found with synthetics are; the cylinder temperature is cooler and the cylinders have hardly any wear to them after a few years of racing the engine.

**Seanp3** · 10-26-2005

Originally Posted by Joe Silvestri 36-S

I have been using Klotz TCW-3 Synthetic Outboard Lubricant in my Yamatos for about 6 years now. I mix the oil to the direction on the back of the container. The only problem I've had with the synthetic is when I did not follow the mixture specification on the back of the container. I mixed to much oil per gallon of gas and by the end of the season, the cylinders were glazed up in the motor not allowing the rings to seal properly, which caused a compression loss/horsepower loss. Remember, that synthetic oil is made to stick to the parts of the engine and if overmixed, or improperly mixed, it could hurt the performance of the engine. Also, I've found that the synthetics do not mix well with fogging oil, which is fine, because there is no need to fog an engine for storage when using synthetic.

The advantages I've found with synthetics are; the cylinder temperature is cooler and the cylinders have hardly any wear to them after a few years of racing the engine.

Thanks John,

this the kind testimony I was looking for. Thanks for the reply

**Joe Silvestri 36-S** · 10-26-2005

No problem. If you have any other questions, and I can answer them, I'd be glad to.

**N-77 Two** · 10-26-2005

I think you should look into running the PowerMist Oil. Check it out at: www.powermist.com I think you will like it a lot.

**Seanp3** · 10-26-2005

Sorry Joe, didn't mean to butcher your name. And thanks N-77. Intersting info on Power Mist

Sean

John (Taylor) Gabrowski · 10-26-2005

Since I got introduced to this stuff way back around 1980, frieds of mine and I have been using only this in Stock, Mod and old classic Alky racing Anzanis and Quincys forgetting about caster ever since. This pure synthetic 2 stroke racing oil though un-available anymore to public sales was retailing for $11.00 a pint then. I have a private stock as some others do too. What made it so special for air cooled racing 2 stroke racing sled engines (the toughest oils are required here) was that; It did not burn, it dripped out of exhaust pipes instead. Left clean and burned clean. Did not lower fuel octane. Could be used with gasoline, with methanol, with gasoline and nitro, alternatively with methanol and nitro and with Gasoline & Methanol and Nitro in the same mix with extreme high loads percentages and none of its characteristics changed nor would it separate or force anything else to separate out in the multi-fuels mixes. Stuck to metal surfaces preventing thermal breakdoiwn staying liquid. (Ever see a crown burn but the skirt look like brand new from the oil's protection?) No hard varnishing. You did not need fogging or storage oils for longer periods of storage. Its something you never ever used to break in piston rings with, they would never seat would requiring disassembly and doing a clean out all over again.

Its a remarkable oil this way and was used wholly for snowmo sled racing, until outboard racers here managed to lay their hands on some. Anytime some NOS stock pops out for sale, its jumped on. The last person making a jump at 2 pallets full 4X4X4 feet each square came from the interior of British Columbia and disappeared with both of them in his 3/4 ton Chevy truck! I have about 150 cans left. That is why they are no longer making it anymore. It Was Too Good!?

There are so many good products out there today and equally good and some better but we are talking years later than this one. Something like the Avro Aero delta wing fighter interceptor aircraft that were light years ahead of the competition kind of situation.

**Seanp3** · 10-26-2005

Well, it seems there are a lot of synthetic brands and these are most used for racing for protection and engine longevity. Thanks for those who posted