Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 38

Thread: Modelling a Propeller

  1. #21
    Administrator Ron Hill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Tustin, California
    Posts
    3,407
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Where Did You Get This Prop?

    I made some props like this about 30 years ago, we weld stainless tubing over the blades as the rules require thru hub exhaust. If you don't have to run a thruu hub these over hubs are fast.

    Quote Originally Posted by Roflhat View Post
    I'm just starting on this now, anyone have any advice regarding extrapolating the blade shape further into the hub? I want to remove the fillet where the blade joins the outside of the hub and move it inside the exhaust tube, with the blade continuing through.
    Here's a photo of a propeller which looks like what I'm aiming for.
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Likes slowJEEP liked this post

  2. #22
    Team Member Roflhat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Scotland
    Posts
    166
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I found that photo on http://www.mccauleyandson.com/html/what.html
    I've spoken to Joe McCauleuy, who reflects what you say Ron - these props worked well when through hub exhaust is required. I figure they should be faster than an equivelent through-hub cleaver

  3. #23
    Team Member zul8tr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Orlando, Fla
    Posts
    509
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Hill View Post
    I made some props like this about 30 years ago, we weld stainless tubing over the blades as the rules require thru hub exhaust. If you don't have to run a thruu hub these over hubs are fast.
    Ron

    On the 3 blade cleaver prop 3rd picture, what is your theory for the offset trailing edge from the shaft center, unlike the 2nd picture where the trailing edge alignment of the 3 cleaver blades intersect at the shaft center?
    " Three may keep a secret if two of them are dead" Ben Franklin
    " ------- well Doctor what have we got a Republic or Monarchy? A Republic he replies if you can keep it"
    Benjamin Franklin, 1787 Constitutional Convention, as recorded by signer James McHenry's in his diary at the Library of Congress

    Location: SW Orlando, Fl

  4. #24
    Team Member Roflhat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Scotland
    Posts
    166
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I'm looking to get a 3D model printed once I've finished my design, anyone have any knowledge on different forms of plastic? Generally available ones are ABS, PLA and Nylon. Looking at ProPulse props it seems they chose Nylon, although it is fibreglass reinforced.

  5. #25
    BRF Team Europe Member Per's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    59
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I suggest you use ABS. PLA pretty much s*cks to machine or shape. Been there done that, had to get new part made of ABS. Have no experience from printed nylon parts. donīt expect to use a printed propp for anyting but mock-up. IF you donīt use a Titanium printer that is

  6. #26
    Team Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Cast prop

    Quote Originally Posted by Roflhat View Post
    I'm looking to get a 3D model printed once I've finished my design, anyone have any knowledge on different forms of plastic? Generally available ones are ABS, PLA and Nylon. Looking at ProPulse props it seems they chose Nylon, although it is fibreglass reinforced.
    If you print with ABS you run a greater risk of the part warping(depending on the competency of the person running the printer). A possible idea is to print it in PLA then cast it. If you print in PLA, mold around it with plaster or sand, heat the mold so all the PLA melts out, then cast it you can obtain pretty good results. The same process can be done with ABS you just need to get the mold hotter than for PLA.

    http://3dtopo.com/lostPLA/

  7. #27
    Team Member Roflhat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Scotland
    Posts
    166
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Thanks for the replies, I'll probably just get one printed in ABS for show. I was looking at metal additive printing but the prices are still very high.

    mathrich - thanks for the link, very interesting stuff. Think I'll look into that some more once the project is done

  8. #28
    Team Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    0
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I have 4 or 5 old 2 blade yamoto props. Not the brass ones. They are stainless.If you would like to mess with them you can have them.

  9. #29
    Team Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I'm not the op but I could use one. (: I'd like to try and print then cast a propeller like I described above. It would be nice to have a real race propeller to design off of.

  10. #30
    Team Member Roflhat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Scotland
    Posts
    166
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hOoTs View Post
    I have 4 or 5 old 2 blade yamoto props. Not the brass ones. They are stainless.If you would like to mess with them you can have them.
    I would certainly appreciate that thank you! I'll send you a PM

    If mathrich wants a one or two maybe we can split them?

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •