You should make a separate post showing these restorations. If you're going to run them I would suggest using Mark 25 cranks in both of your "B" motors. I have a Mark 25 crank in all of my 2 cylinder loopers.
You should make a separate post showing these restorations. If you're going to run them I would suggest using Mark 25 cranks in both of your "B" motors. I have a Mark 25 crank in all of my 2 cylinder loopers.
Well, since I have the original 20H cranks for the B motors, I'll use them.
Also, the Merc lower units I can build for them only have 1:1 gearsets, so I'll have to get advice on props. In the day, these two engines were using 12:15 Konig units but I didn't get them, nor the tube towers which I'll have to make anew.
Thanks
(EDIT) I am curious, Juby; do you use the Mk25 crank with the bronze split bushing, or what?
Smitty,
I started out with a deep skeg1:1 gear case cut off so I had a wider skeg on my "B" Looper. Then a 30 H which is essentially the same except a larger seal carrier for the slightly larger dia drive shaft. Shortly thereafter we switched to a Crescent 13:14 gear case
Sorry I did not see your edit. I used the Mark 25 crank with the babbitt bearing. I don't remember it being brass, I think the split babbitt bearings are steel? For the amount I run them, it shouldn't be an issue. I think the roller type Mark 25 would also be OK, but I don't know if the center neck on those is narrower than the babbitt style cranks.
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TheMk 25 shaft with Brass cage was also used by Quincy due to the center breaking on the B motors. The A,s used the 20 H crank. I think the Early B's used the 20H as well, but after time and power came up is when the change was made. Today and for a fun ride or show and tell it makes no difference, though I think I would stay away from the steel cages. Steve
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