Assembly ques.

[smittythewelder]

I never ran a looper myself, but over the years acquired three in boxes, two B's and a C. Seems to me I recall someone saying that you should bolt the back half of the 'case to the block first, then assemble the front end. Is there an approved description of a proper rebuild sequence somewhere here?

[John Schubert T*A*R*T]

I never ran a looper myself, but over the years acquired three in boxes, two B's and a C. Seems to me I recall someone saying that you should bolt the back half of the 'case to the block first, then assemble the front end. Is there an approved description of a proper rebuild sequence somewhere here?

That certainly could be one way,but not the way my father & I did it.We did the conventional build.

[Gene East]

At Quincy, we assembled the crankcase as a unit and then bolted the crankcase and cyl. block assembly the way John just described

[R Austin]

I thought that maybe Steve would chime in on this one. I was instructed by O.F. to bolt the bare case back half to the block with out the gasket. Install crank assembly and torque front cover and end caps. Then remove as an assembly and do the final assembly of rings ( and pistons on a 44 which will not go thru the back case), then bolt to the block with the gasket in place.

The thought was to keep the mid case from cracking. Pulling the front cover around the mains and not stressing the narrow web of the mid case half. The bad thing is todays gasket materials, sans asbestos, have a high rubber content and squeeze down and allow uneven and poor pressure transfer between the to parts. I try to use high pressure steam flange gasket material. Expensive stuff but hard enough to do the job.

[J-Dub]

The thought was to keep the mid case from cracking. Pulling the front cover around the mains and not stressing the narrow web of the mid case half. The bad thing is todays gasket materials, sans asbestos, have a high rubber content and squeeze down and allow uneven and poor pressure transfer between the to parts. I try to use high pressure steam flange gasket material. Expensive stuff but hard enough to do the job.

100% agreed. I have an aluminum Gasket/Spacer between my crankcase and block on my 60" engine. I have seriously considered having them water jet cut for the other Flatheads too.
**Note let me know if you need any head gaskets. I had some made for all 2 & 4 cylinder engines (A, B, C,D, & 44) in two different thicknesses (.016" & .025").

[Steve Litzell]

I was taught and have always done the same as Rich and Jdub and others do on four and sixes because of the mid case thinness. The two bangers not so much. With the others you have to jiggle a little and be sure that the reed cages and center mains are set square or cracks and case bulging happen. Also when out a bit it makes the crank turn over harder.I personally spend a lot of time whether it be a flathead or any other motor to be sure crank is free and spins nice. It was something Walt Blamkenstein taught me. Done the same with four strokes on drag motors. Can't spend enough time it seems to get this one part correct but it really helps with the way a motor runs and how quick it will accerate. Steve

[J-Dub]

I never ran a looper myself, but over the years acquired three in boxes, two B's and a C. Seems to me I recall someone saying that you should bolt the back half of the 'case to the block first, then assemble the front end. Is there an approved description of a proper rebuild sequence somewhere here?

That the way my Dad and Rich Fuchslin taught me...