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Thread: frozen bolts

  1. #1
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    Default frozen bolts

    Well, I could use a few ideas on how to get frozen stainless bolts out of an aluminum block, before they snap, and after

    Any ideas besides drilling them out, and using an easyout, or drilling and tapping?

    I got some old motors I want to get apart, and the bolts started snapping.

  2. #2
    FFX-61
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    Default

    get some map gas on it, soak them in a penatratein oil first, if thay snap, dependin
    on how many snap, you can bring it to a machine shop thay can get the snaped ones out with out fallin off the bolt

  3. #3
    Team JDS Jeff Akers's Avatar
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    Default Tips

    Quote Originally Posted by riVeRraT
    Well, I could use a few ideas on how to get frozen stainless bolts out of an aluminum block, before they snap, and after

    Any ideas besides drilling them out, and using an easyout, or drilling and tapping?

    I got some old motors I want to get apart, and the bolts started snapping.
    I start with a brass punch/hammer, Wack the head of the bolt a few times and spray penatrent on it , I use PB Blaster. If that don't do it, use heat from a torch ( be carefull things can go BOOM! ) "around" the bolt "not on the bolt".
    That will let the aluminum expand around the bolt. Wack it with the brass punch/hammer again. Try to remove the bolt.

    If that doe's not work and the head breaks off. find an oversized nut to put over the broken bolt. Weld the end of the bolt to the nut and try again!

    If that's not an option then you can take it to a shop as Fred said, or Drill and tap until your fed up Wipe up any spilled blood and sweat, Go have a bevarege of your choice and rethink why it is you want to do this

    Good Luck!
    Jeff 93-C



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    if that doe's not work and the head breaks off. find an oversized nut to put over the broken bolt. Weld the end of the bolt to the nut and try again!
    There, I learned something, and yes why do we do this?
    Pb blaster is good stuff isn't it?

    Thanks for the tips.

  5. #5
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    Default Penatrating oil?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Akers
    I start with a brass punch/hammer, Wack the head of the bolt a few times and spray penatrent on it , I use PB Blaster. If that don't do it, use heat from a torch ( be carefull things can go BOOM! ) "around" the bolt "not on the bolt".
    That will let the aluminum expand around the bolt. Wack it with the brass punch/hammer again. Try to remove the bolt.

    If that doe's not work and the head breaks off. find an oversized nut to put over the broken bolt. Weld the end of the bolt to the nut and try again!

    If that's not an option then you can take it to a shop as Fred said, or Drill and tap until your fed up Wipe up any spilled blood and sweat, Go have a bevarege of your choice and rethink why it is you want to do this

    Good Luck!
    I really like the part about blood sweat and beers,sure sounds like a group or something .
    What is the best penetrent to use?
    I use Kroil the oil that creeps but i know there must be others.
    RichardKCMo

  6. #6
    Team Member JohnsonM50's Avatar
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    Default another option

    A cordless drill with an adjustable clutch drive combined with PB, heat etc. and a 1/4 in. socket adapter, 1/4 or 5/16 in socket for screw bits or the size you need and let the clutch rattle the crap outta that bleepin bolt, nut or screw. start with a low setting and power up to your needs. If you need a bit more... a drywall screw gun [plug in] has the same clutch but can break things. For getting broken bolts out I hear but dont have yet.. reversed drill bits work well. From being near salt water you need some tricks. Oh and upon reassembly lately Im using teflon thread sealant forget neverseize. BEER! toast to victory, wallow in defeet or ponder why-for , its all purpose.

  7. #7
    Team Member Master Oil Racing Team's Avatar
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    Default I'm biased, but.......

    ......there's nothing better than The Master Oil. It's nonflammable, thins rapidly with heat, and will creep deeply and spread far. Apply oil, put some heat down, a little more oil, then wait. Give it overnight if it's something like aluminum threads and steel bolts. Then in the morning more heat, a little more oil then slowly work back and forth. If the head isn't rounded off, just be a little patient with it. If it is, then use some tools that you can work it with pressure left and right until you get some movement. Once you do it is a matter of heat, time and patience for the oil to cover enough of the threads to the point that it overcomes the resistance from corrosion.

    Whacking and banging on the head with a hammer can help too, but unless you have deep penetrating power to loosen the hold of corrosion, that alone will often result in twisting off the bolt. With dissimilar metals you have electrolysis involved and that is why, even if you get the bolt out, the threads are so screwed up, you have to put in a helicoil. If you are able to get the bolt out with some lubricant easing the way, then you may just be able to clean up the threads and use a good grease with the replacement bolts. Be aware though that if the bolts bottom out anywhere near a water jacket that you could overgrease and hydraulic the bottom out and cause a water leak.



  8. #8
    Rude Wrecker jphii1's Avatar
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    Default

    Where do you get Master oil?
    Joe Horvath
    1994 Mirage Mod VP
    12" Rude Looper

  9. #9
    John (Taylor) Gabrowski
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    Default Black and Decker Heat Gun, then squirt the site with penetrant

    Torch flames and aluminum just don't mix if your going to heat it. Flame heat changes the crystal structure of the case aluminum making it brittle. I use a Black and Decker paint removal type heat gun, heating the bolt head and close area site. While hot give the head a good tap with hammer and punch and then quench with penetrating oil and let sit until cold. Lost very few bolt holes or snapped off bolt heads evers since using this method. Even when it breaks free a bit, add more penetrating oil along the way to gently ease it out by both in and further out turns.

  10. #10
    Team Member Master Oil Racing Team's Avatar
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    Default That's a tough one

    My brother Mark still makes it, but he only sells to retailers or big industrial users now. Too much government BS for aerosol and too much paperwork for taxing purposes for individual sales. I will ask him where it is available off the shelf, but I know there is probably none anywhere near you unless you have a contact within the Virginia highway department. They use it on the salt spreaders during the winter.

    If you know where to find any Lawson products in your area, ask about the oil. That is Master Oil under a different label. Master Oil is much more expensive than petroleum based oils, BUT...it works. At the Lone Star reunion several drivers including Denny Henderson, David Woodell and Bobby Wilson said they still have some. People that have ever used it hide it away and hoarde it because once it is gone they don't know if they will ever find any again. They save it for the impossible jobs.

    If you have something that you really need to save and want to try it, let me know & I'll see what I can do.



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