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Thread: Nosecone

  1. #51
    Team Member hupiveneilija's Avatar
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    Someone before Me has make diam. smaller its like 13 1/4. Ive "derolled" leading edge away from propnut, more on the root of the blade little less toward tip. Straighten the cup before trailing edge (think cross section) little but then grinded real tight radius on to the trailing edge. Picture show how it goes around tip. Bent blade tip for less rake, helped driveability a lot. Leading edge is sharp and quite thin.

    All this was two summers project, do one thing, go out to find not good. Again and again. I think now its really really close atleast if not ready.
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  2. #52
    Team Member hupiveneilija's Avatar
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    Another L/U under construction. This time with lwp. Havent drilled holes to the cone yet. Its 3cm longer than first one. Maybe take little length off when holes are made, dont know yet.
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  3. #53
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    well this looks pretty good.
    have you thought about taking a mould off one of these and making fibreglass cones for these 50, 60, and 70hp motors ?
    I like the shape you have made, looks realy good.

    I would like to do this but I dont think I would be good enough for this.

    have you made something so you know both sides are exactly the same ?

    what metal is the pipe ? stainless or alloy ?

  4. #54
    Team Member hupiveneilija's Avatar
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    Lwp L/u waiting for paint!
    Oh man, what one can do if want to😬.
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  5. #55
    Team Member zul8tr's Avatar
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    Very well executed. You had a single tube (material ? and ID) embedded in the polyester filler, I assume you fashioned those 3 intake holes to the tube by drill after shaping the filler? Describe exactly what you did from the holes to the enclosed tube.
    " Three may keep a secret if two of them are dead" Ben Franklin

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  6. #56
    Team Member hupiveneilija's Avatar
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    Yes I cut the pipe before start to baking it with filling and ofcourse took measurements where to drill after shaping l/u. Its somekind of a metalfilling, hardens real tuff but very easy to work with.
    Drilling went 1mm off side😂. But yes have to use little imagination on the angles where to drill.

    The pipe is 13mm inside, flattened so that shape is like raindrop,that way leading edge stays narrow enough.

  7. #57
    Team Member skeg's Avatar
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    Looks like you need to be in the forming nose business, great job.

  8. #58
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    Looks 100% perfect.
    you have done a great job.
    how do you make it so both sides are the same ?
    to do one side and get it right yes that is hard enough,
    but to get both sides looking so perfect ? brilliant work.

    I do hope the material /filler stays hard for a long time.
    .

  9. #59
    Team Member hupiveneilija's Avatar
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    By hand with gentle touch.😬

  10. #60
    Team Member zul8tr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hupiveneilija View Post
    Yes I cut the pipe before start to baking it with filling and ofcourse took measurements where to drill after shaping l/u. Its somekind of a metalfilling, hardens real tuff but very easy to work with.
    Drilling went 1mm off side😂. But yes have to use little imagination on the angles where to drill.

    The pipe is 13mm inside, flattened so that shape is like raindrop,that way leading edge stays narrow enough.
    Very clever approach, perfect symmetry, well done . I looked up the Metall Spackel 36-060 filler you use all I got was a web page in Norwegian. I found the specs in English. The product is a polyester based filler with aluminum pigments for increased strength and uses a hardener. No link to the product in USA. I use JB Weld (2 part Epoxy product) for such builds and repairs on my outboards and other things. It has a longer cure time than the Matall.

    http://www.biltema.fi/BiltemaDocumen.../36060_TDS.pdf
    " Three may keep a secret if two of them are dead" Ben Franklin

    Location: SW Orlando, Fl

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