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Thread: Nosecone

  1. #31
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    Sorry Ron
    I meant to write billet and obviously wrote cast doh

    is a billet alloy thrust washer going to be ok ? or would it be better to be stainless thrust washer then tig welded to a cup.
    surely the cup can simply be cast alloy or thin stainless as its only being used to divert exhaust gases. water pressure there would not be much would it ?

    and 6061 T6 is old hat in Europe nowdays, we use the 6082 T6 , Pretty much the same but a bit tougher. dont know what polishes up best though ?

  2. #32
    Team Member hupiveneilija's Avatar
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    A little update on this. Blowout ring done and in its place. Also only 1 water hole/side, give it a try. If it dont work then go back to the transom p/u.
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  3. #33
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    The ring might work, although it is supposed to be attached to thrust washer, not the gearcase. but I cant see why it should not help.
    I have seen plastic rings that clip in that do similar job, but only on small motor, this being screwed on it should be perfect to help the semi cleaver to bite when trying to plane.

    The water intake should work if jacking the engine up a touch, BUT if the cone works very good the water will not be anywhere near that as the bullet will
    be riding on top of the water surface and being sprayed outwards not upwards .
    depends how high you are going to ride the motor


    all looks very stuff. , some nice filling work been done there too. will you be making a torque tab for the skeg ?

    I hope the ring works good for this propeller, if so I will be making one too.

    .

  4. #34
    Team Member hupiveneilija's Avatar
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    Finally! L/U is done. Im quite satisfied for my work. Think i wetsand it with 1000 and then wax, same thing i did with the boat bottom. Slippery in a right way😊. See how that water intake works.
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  5. #35
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    Looks very nice.
    The home made coned front looks perfect, it realy has come out good.

    what is the smaller hole for near the 2 exhaust holes ? external water pump fitting, or for flushing attachment.

  6. #36
    Team Member zul8tr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hupiveneilija View Post
    Finally! L/U is done. Im quite satisfied for my work. Think i wetsand it with 1000 and then wax, same thing i did with the boat bottom. Slippery in a right way😊. See how that water intake works.
    Very nice result. On my hydro bottoms wax never worked out for me, advice from Bob Wartinger (many hydro many speed records holder) he uses sanded. I use 320 wet in a fore aft direction, runs more controlled and faster on my rigs. I also use sanded gear case and satin finish props. Preference and what works for you.
    " Three may keep a secret if two of them are dead" Ben Franklin

    Location: SW Orlando, Fl
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  7. #37
    Team Member hupiveneilija's Avatar
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    On its place again!
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  8. #38
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    that looks perfect, the cone looks like its always been there.

    very good job, well done.

  9. #39
    Administrator Ron Hill's Avatar
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    Default My Little Nose Cones for 15-70 HP Motors

    Quote Originally Posted by filthy phill View Post
    that looks perfect, the cone looks like its always been there.

    very good job, well done.
    I made this cone for my own boat many years ago. I "CON" Bill Curtis into drilling them for low water...

    Low Water: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Nos.../391793077607?

    Nose Cone only: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Nos...item238331d849
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    Last edited by Ron Hill; 05-25-2017 at 05:03 PM.
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  10. #40
    Team Member hupiveneilija's Avatar
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    With this height constant 1.8bar water pressure. Go couple cm higher and drop ro 1.5, up from that gauge needle starts wondering up n down. Lower picture no pressure.
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