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Thread: Will350...

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    Administrator Ron Hill's Avatar
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    Default Will350...

    Hey Will, and anyone else...

    Do you think using the clutch that you have on your 350 would be a good idea for say, a 25 HP class????

    When Chad had the clutch on the weedeater boat, it would sit and idle and go when you wanted it...an enrty level class, where everyone could sit with their moros going, without dropping them into gear and blowing the foots... seems like an idea..

    On your mid sections that you fabricate...what thickness aluminum and are you olnly bolting them together...???

    Another question: What about just bolting a bracket to the transom, like an inboard rudder assembly (Clampbracket saddle in reverse)...and then dropping the swivel pin through... no clamp needed???

    I realize kick out and kick in would be difficult, but for a One Design class....

    Not the greatest picture.. but how strong would it need to be??? Would 6 inch channel work??? (25 HP)...
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    Last edited by Ron Hill; 12-21-2004 at 09:13 AM.

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    Deceased will350's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RonHill
    Hey Will, and anyone else...

    Do you think using the clutch that you have on your 350 would be a good idea for say, a 25 HP class????

    On your mid sections that you fabricate...what thickness aluminum and are you olnly bolting them together...???

    Another question: What about just bolting a bracket to the transom, like an inboard rudder assembly (Clampbracket saddle in reverse)...and then dropping the swivel pin through... no clamp needed???

    I have to do some searching around but I think that a hydrualic style coupler might even be better . What I run now HAS to be kept reasonably dry and OIL FREE . I think that if you were going to run a "clutch" on any "through leg" exhuast it will have to be fully contained and sealed . It might be way better for me becuase I have LOTS of rpm and I can donkey around with the stall speed . Hmmm........................
    The fronts are 1/2" - 5/8" ( foot plates too ) The sides are 3/16"-1/4" ( depending on what I have "enough" of ) No welding . 2 things to consider here . The alloy changes at the weld and it will most likely crack there .
    The set-up has to be perfect and when you weld it up , it's going to rack everywhich way as you weld it . I bolt all my stuff up because it's a proven way . I don't have to worry about cracking at the joints and I can "adjust"
    as I go for when I screw up early on .
    Lee Tietze has an awesome set up for pro motors that slides into a
    bracket . Will

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    approx how many RPM's will these idle at? i know my Suzuki idles high, probably 3000.... i always pull the choke before putting into gear...
    i had one kick into gear on me while testing in a garbage can at home, blew up both gears..

    EDIT: I guess you guys start still though.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by bathtub888
    approx how many RPM's will these idle at? i know my Suzuki idles high, probably 3000.... i always pull the choke before putting into gear...
    i had one kick into gear on me while testing in a garbage can at home, blew up both gears..

    EDIT: I guess you guys start still though.....
    My Polaris and Rotax suff will idle at 2000-2500 depending .( not enough to engage the clutch , 3000-3500 ) Your Suzuki "should" idle considerably lower than that unless you have done "something" to it or it has a mechanical problem (?) My set-up could use another 1000 rpm of engagement . That would make it go off a lot better . As it is , one to pull it , one to hold on to it . When it fires , the holder lifts it enough to get it ventilating and then lets go and your off . No lifting AND throwing . This set up is fine for what I do but inside a tower with exhaust and cooling water , a sealed fluid coupler would the ticket . Will

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