Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 34

Thread: Mirage Tomcat Resurrection

  1. #1
    Team Member MonsterNine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    NW AZ
    Posts
    43
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Mirage Tomcat Resurrection

    I figured I'd start a thread on the repair of this old hull. It has had a lot of "mods" and some "repairs". All the wood is bad and the cores are delaminated. I'm starting by grinding off all the additions to the running surfaces then I will jig and tab it up to replace the cores, bulkheads, transom and such. Current jig is just to flip it over and clean off the bottom. Not going to be a fast project but I hope to have it rigged and running by next summer or next mini boat enduro. Here is the current state of disrepair.
    Attached Images Attached Images      
    Dave

  2. #2
    Team Member MonsterNine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    NW AZ
    Posts
    43
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Found some pics of when I first took it apart
    Attached Images Attached Images        
    Dave
    Thanks ClayT thanked for this post
    Likes ClayT liked this post

  3. #3
    Team Member MonsterNine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    NW AZ
    Posts
    43
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Got a little done. Ground and sanded off most of the mess from the bottom of the hull. Still have to clean off the bottom of the tunnel. Not sure what that is. Some kind of putty. There was a lot of neat resin and what looked like cat hair resin spread all over this thing. A lot of holes too. . .

    This thing is thin (light). Deck and hull. Gunna get the hull pretty fair but the deck will still be wavey when I'm done. You can see the waves in the bottom of the tunnel from the delam of the core. The patch is about a 1/4 inch thick. I'll be cutting it out and redoing it before the cores are replaced. Will be traveling for a few days then will get started on the external bracing.
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Dave
    Thanks Ron Hill, wtsjr66 thanked for this post
    Likes Ron Hill, ClayT, Joe Silvestri 36-S liked this post

  4. #4
    ExperiMental BYOBoat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Warrenton, OR
    Posts
    43
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    They were built light, especially the deck. I rebuilt a friend's for Sport C a few years back. Started in better shape structurally, but the deck was fractured in many places. The deck floated above the frames. Problem was at 60mph it rattled against the frame tops, and eventually fractured along them. I separated the hull-deck joint outside (no relief holes along cockpit sides like you have) and added rubber fuel tubing to the tops of frames to cushion, then repaired the fractures and glassed the whole side decks with a layer of cloth. Depending on your application, it's not a bad idea to add pour foam in the sponsons.

    On the rigging side, I've found a mercruiser trim pump, and merc outboard ram off ebay work well. Most people use a rubber truck gear shift boot to keep the water out. I found glassing in an outboard well of sorts around the ram and bracket is more reliable for longer waits at the dock between races. I'll try to take a pic. Or some people have built trim ram mounts that are entirely external. Either way power trim is the only way to drive these. With the 40hp 2 cylinder Tohatsu they're good for 55-60mph, WOT full time, cornering and blowover prevention is all with the thumb controlled trim switch.

    Looks like you have a good project hope it goes well!
    mini tunnel boats for sport, now an experimental Sport C added to the fleet.

  5. #5
    ExperiMental BYOBoat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Warrenton, OR
    Posts
    43
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    The 2 stripes along the tunnel were probably small strips 1/2-3/4" tall. Not quite sure how they worked, but I've heard they affected air and water in the tunnel and allowed the motor to be jacked up higher before losing cooling. Wes Fridell in northern Washington runs that setup on his Tomcat Sport C, and I think Bob Schellhase has a similar mod on his top secret 20 year tomcat development project he's been building.
    mini tunnel boats for sport, now an experimental Sport C added to the fleet.
    Thanks Ron Hill thanked for this post

  6. #6
    Team Member LakeRacer99's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    KC, MO
    Posts
    98
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Any updates on this project? I need insipration to work on mine.
    Jason
    Outboard Junkie
    Thanks Ron Hill thanked for this post
    Likes BYOBoat liked this post

  7. #7
    Team Member MonsterNine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    NW AZ
    Posts
    43
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Hi All,

    Sorry. I hadnít worked on the project since my last update until a few days ago. I should now have time to work on it at least two days a week. Iím getting anxious to make a boat out of it again. Been working on the jig to hold it in place when I remove all the wood and I have a few questions about the hull shape that hopefully someone can answer. The wood in this hull is junk and there are a lot of curves and warps in places that are probably supposed to be straight. See pics below.

    (1) The shape at the transom end of the tunnel. Looking at it from the aft is it supposed to be flat across the width of it or is there some angle to it? Right now it is angled up at the outside edges and I have to clamp a piece of angle iron across it to flatten it out. Is it there to let the air out of the tunnel?

    (2) On the running surface of the sponsons - The inside bottom edge is true and straight. No hook or rocker. The outside bottom edge (chine?) has a slight hook in it in the last 4 feet. Should it be straight also or is the hook part of the design?
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Dave

  8. #8
    Team Member MonsterNine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    NW AZ
    Posts
    43
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Hi All, Sorry. I hadnít worked on the project since my last update until a few days ago. I should now have time to work on it at least two days a week. Iím getting anxious to make a boat out of it again. Been working on the jig to hold it in place when I remove all the wood and I have a few questions about the hull shape that hopefully someone can answer. The wood in this hull is junk and there are a lot of curves and warps in places that are probably supposed to be straight. See pics below.

    (1) Is the shape at the transom end of the tunnel. Looking at it from the aft is it supposed to be flat across the width of it or is there some angle to it? Right now it angles up at each side. Is it to help let air out of the tunnel?

    (2) On the running surface of the sponsons - The inside bottom edge (keel?) is true and straight. No hook or rocker. The outside bottom edge (chine?) has a slight hook in it in the last 4 feet. Should it be straight also or is the hook part of the design?
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Dave

  9. #9
    Team Member MonsterNine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    NW AZ
    Posts
    43
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Hi All, Sorry. I hadnít worked on the project since my last update until a few days ago. I should now have time to work on it at least two days a week. Iím getting anxious to make a boat out of it again. Been working on the jig to hold it in place when I remove all the wood and I have a few questions about the hull shape that hopefully someone can answer. The wood in this hull is junk and there are a lot of curves and warps in places that are probably supposed to be straight. See pics below.

    (1) Is the shape at the transom end of the tunnel. Looking at it from the aft is it supposed to be flat across the width of it or is there some angle to it? It angles up at the outside corners. Is that to help dump air?

    (2) On the running surface of the sponsons - The inside bottom edge is true and straight. No hook or rocker. The outside bottom edge (chine?) has a slight hook in it in the last 4 feet. Should it be straight also or is the hook part of the design?
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Dave

  10. #10
    Team Member MonsterNine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    NW AZ
    Posts
    43
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BYOBoat View Post
    They were built light, especially the deck. I rebuilt a friend's for Sport C a few years back. Started in better shape structurally, but the deck was fractured in many places. The deck floated above the frames. Problem was at 60mph it rattled against the frame tops, and eventually fractured along them. I separated the hull-deck joint outside (no relief holes along cockpit sides like you have) and added rubber fuel tubing to the tops of frames to cushion, then repaired the fractures and glassed the whole side decks with a layer of cloth. Depending on your application, it's not a bad idea to add pour foam in the sponsons.
    From what I can see it looks like the deck is just gelcoat, a skin coat of CSM, and then 6 or 10 oz cloth laid/pressed on top of the CSM while still wet with no further resin added. The deck stringers are just plywood strips with CSM loosely laid down over them. Both sides are broke in at least 4 places so they will have to be replaced too. Not sure just yet what I am going to do about the way the deck just sits in top of the bulkheads. I may just put a small bead of 3M 5200 across the tops of the bulkheads when I install the deck. I may add some stringers between two of the bulkheads so I can step on the deck too.

    I plan on filling in the access holes. I think they were added to facilitate repairs.

    For the foam I may try to encapsulate some Styrofoam and attach it in the sponsons. I've never liked trying to dry out or remove pour foam. I may change my mind though. Lake Mead is too deep to just let it sink.

    Have to get to HD and get some more 1/2 plywood to hold the tunnel shape in place and some "Bondo" resin to tab it to the jig and then I can start cutting and grinding.
    Dave

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Mirage 1/4 Master
    By rbengines in forum Motors and Powerheads
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 09-14-2010, 12:20 PM
  2. Collins Mirage
    By pgf127rt in forum Boat Racing Encyclopedia
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 11-24-2006, 03:35 PM
  3. My 95 Mirage
    By CitySlicker909 in forum Boat Racing Encyclopedia
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 05-13-2006, 05:25 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •