Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 34

Thread: Mirage Tomcat Resurrection

  1. #11
    Team Member MonsterNine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    NW AZ
    Posts
    42
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BYOBoat View Post
    They were built light, especially the deck. I rebuilt a friend's for Sport C a few years back. Started in better shape structurally, but the deck was fractured in many places. The deck floated above the frames. Problem was at 60mph it rattled against the frame tops, and eventually fractured along them. I separated the hull-deck joint outside (no relief holes along cockpit sides like you have) and added rubber fuel tubing to the tops of frames to cushion, then repaired the fractures and glassed the whole side decks with a layer of cloth. Depending on your application, it's not a bad idea to add pour foam in the sponsons.
    From what I can see it looks like the deck is just gelcoat, a skin coat of CSM, and then 6 or 10 oz cloth laid/pressed on top of the CSM while still wet with no further resin added. The deck stringers are just plywood strips with CSM loosely laid down over them. Both sides are broke in at least 4 places so they will have to be replaced too. Not sure just yet what I am going to do about the way the deck just sits in top of the bulkheads. I may just put a small bead of 3M 5200 across the tops of the bulkheads when I install the deck. I may add some stringers between two of the bulkheads so I can step on the deck too.

    I plan on filling in the access holes. I think they were added to facilitate repairs.

    For the foam I may try to encapsulate some Styrofoam and attach it in the sponsons. I've never liked trying to dry out or remove pour foam. I may change my mind though. Lake Mead is too deep to just let it sink.

    Have to get to HD and get some more 1/2 plywood to hold the tunnel shape in place and some "Bondo" resin to tab it to the jig and then I can start cutting and grinding.
    Dave

  2. #12
    Team Member MonsterNine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    NW AZ
    Posts
    42
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BYOBoat View Post
    They were built light, especially the deck. I rebuilt a friend's for Sport C a few years back. Started in better shape structurally, but the deck was fractured in many places. The deck floated above the frames. Problem was at 60mph it rattled against the frame tops, and eventually fractured along them. I separated the hull-deck joint outside (no relief holes along cockpit sides like you have) and added rubber fuel tubing to the tops of frames to cushion, then repaired the fractures and glassed the whole side decks with a layer of cloth. Depending on your application, it's not a bad idea to add pour foam in the sponsons.
    From what I can see it looks like the deck is just gelcoat, a skin coat of CSM, and then 6 or 10 oz cloth laid/pressed on top of the CSM while still wet with no further resin added. The deck stringers are just plywood strips with CSM loosely laid down over them. Both sides are broke in at least 4 places so they will have to be replaced too. Not sure just yet what I am going to do about the way the deck just sits in top of the bulkheads. I may just put a small bead of 3M 5200 across the tops of the bulkheads when I install the deck. I may add some stringers between two of the bulkheads so I can step on the deck too.

    I plan on filling in the access holes. I think they were added to facilitate repairs.

    For the foam I may try to encapsulate some Styrofoam and attach it in the sponsons. I've never liked trying to dry out or remove pour foam. I may change my mind though. Lake Mead is too deep to just let it sink.

    Have to get to HD and get some more 1/2 plywood to hold the tunnel shape in place and some "Bondo" resin to tab it to the jig and then I can start cutting and grinding.
    Dave

  3. #13
    ExperiMental BYOBoat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Warrenton, OR
    Posts
    42
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    The upper pic looks normal. I'm not sure if they did it to dump air, direct spray from the motor, easier to build that way, or some other reason. I don't know about the chine hook. Is it just near the chine, or does it look like the whole sponson running surface is changing deadrise/warping? In a few weeks I may be hands on one and I'll see if it hooks.
    mini tunnel boats for sport, now an experimental Sport C added to the fleet.

  4. #14
    ExperiMental BYOBoat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Warrenton, OR
    Posts
    42
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Here's an old pic, the tunnel ends turn up the same. I can't tell if the chine is hooked though.

    Name:  IMG_3851a.jpg
Views: 232
Size:  58.2 KB
    mini tunnel boats for sport, now an experimental Sport C added to the fleet.
    Thanks MonsterNine thanked for this post
    Likes MonsterNine liked this post

  5. #15
    Team Member MonsterNine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    NW AZ
    Posts
    42
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BYOBoat View Post
    They were built light, especially the deck. I rebuilt a friend's for Sport C a few years back. Started in better shape structurally, but the deck was fractured in many places. The deck floated above the frames. Problem was at 60mph it rattled against the frame tops, and eventually fractured along them. I separated the hull-deck joint outside (no relief holes along cockpit sides like you have) and added rubber fuel tubing to the tops of frames to cushion, then repaired the fractures and glassed the whole side decks with a layer of cloth. Depending on your application, it's not a bad idea to add pour foam in the sponsons.
    From what I can see it looks like the deck is just gelcoat, a skin coat of CSM, and then 6 or 10 oz cloth laid/pressed on top of the CSM while still wet with no further resin added. The deck stringers are just plywood strips with CSM loosely laid down over them. Both sides are broke in at least 4 places so they will have to be replaced too. Not sure just yet what I am going to do about the way the deck just sits in top of the bulkheads. I may just put a small bead of 3M 5200 across the tops of the bulkheads when I install the deck. I may add some stringers between two of the bulkheads so I can step on the deck too.

    I plan on filling in the access holes. I think they were added to facilitate repairs.

    For the foam I may try to encapsulate some Styrofoam and attach it in the sponsons. I've never liked trying to dry out or remove pour foam. I may change my mind though. Lake Mead is too deep to just let it sink.

    Have to get to HD and get some more 1/2 plywood to hold the tunnel shape in place and some "Bondo" resin to tab it to the jig and then I can start cutting and grinding.
    Dave

  6. #16
    Team Member MonsterNine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    NW AZ
    Posts
    42
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BYOBoat View Post
    They were built light, especially the deck. I rebuilt a friend's for Sport C a few years back. Started in better shape structurally, but the deck was fractured in many places. The deck floated above the frames. Problem was at 60mph it rattled against the frame tops, and eventually fractured along them. I separated the hull-deck joint outside (no relief holes along cockpit sides like you have) and added rubber fuel tubing to the tops of frames to cushion, then repaired the fractures and glassed the whole side decks with a layer of cloth. Depending on your application, it's not a bad idea to add pour foam in the sponsons.
    From what I can see it looks like the deck is just gelcoat, a skin coat of CSM, and then 6 or 10 oz cloth laid/pressed on top of the CSM while still wet with no further resin added. The deck stringers are just plywood strips with CSM loosely laid down over them. Both sides are broke in at least 4 places so they will have to be replaced too. Not sure just yet what I am going to do about the way the deck just sits in top of the bulkheads. I may just put a small bead of 3M 5200 across the tops of the bulkheads when I install the deck. I may add some stringers between two of the bulkheads so I can step on the deck too.

    I plan on filling in the access holes. I think they were added to facilitate repairs.

    For the foam I may try to encapsulate some Styrofoam and attach it in the sponsons. I've never liked trying to dry out or remove pour foam. I may change my mind though. Lake Mead is too deep to just let it sink.

    Have to get to HD and get some more 1/2 plywood to hold the tunnel shape in place and some "Bondo" resin to tab it to the jig and then I can start cutting and grinding.
    Dave

  7. #17
    Team Member MonsterNine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    NW AZ
    Posts
    42
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BYOBoat View Post
    Here's an old pic, the tunnel ends turn up the same. I can't tell if the chine is hooked though.
    Thanks for the pic. That answers the tunnel question. The hook is just in the chine and is very slight. I'll probably take it out when I fair the bottom. I would imagine it is supposed to be straight. That boat looks like it has a few of steps/strakes on the bottom of the sponson. Also, is that an aluminum rub rail?
    Dave

  8. #18
    Team Member MonsterNine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    NW AZ
    Posts
    42
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BYOBoat View Post
    They were built light, especially the deck. I rebuilt a friend's for Sport C a few years back. Started in better shape structurally, but the deck was fractured in many places. The deck floated above the frames. Problem was at 60mph it rattled against the frame tops, and eventually fractured along them. I separated the hull-deck joint outside (no relief holes along cockpit sides like you have) and added rubber fuel tubing to the tops of frames to cushion, then repaired the fractures and glassed the whole side decks with a layer of cloth. Depending on your application, it's not a bad idea to add pour foam in the sponsons.
    From what I can see it looks like the deck is just gelcoat, a skin coat of CSM, and then 6 or 10 oz cloth laid/pressed on top of the CSM while still wet with no further resin added. The deck stringers are just plywood strips with CSM loosely laid down over them. Both sides are broke in at least 4 places so they will have to be replaced too.

    I plan on filling in the access holes. I think they were added to facilitate repairs.

    I may just put a small bead of 3M 5200 across the tops of the bulkheads when I put the deck on. I may add some stringers between the tops of two of the bulkheads so I can step on the deck too. For the foam I may try to encapsulate some styrofoam and attach it in the sponsons. I've never liked trying to dry out or remove pour foam. I'll do something. Lake mead is too deep to just let it sink.

    Have to get to HD and get some more plywood to hold the tunnel in shape and some *Bondo* resin to tab it to the jig and then I can start cutting and grinding.
    Dave

  9. #19
    ExperiMental BYOBoat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Warrenton, OR
    Posts
    42
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Here's a couple other tomcat's. On 303 notice the tunnel air trap has been extended with aluminum angle in the 1st picture. In the 2nd it has a steering pulley access hatch. Most do not have lift strakes like the 303 above, at least not several that close. shape like post #19 of this thread is more common http://www.boatracingfacts.com/forum...nel-boat/page2

    Name:  303a.jpg
Views: 282
Size:  103.7 KB
    Name:  IMG_8065.jpg
Views: 302
Size:  97.4 KB
    Name:  447a.jpg
Views: 301
Size:  108.3 KB
    Name:  697a.jpg
Views: 290
Size:  84.2 KB
    mini tunnel boats for sport, now an experimental Sport C added to the fleet.
    Thanks MonsterNine thanked for this post
    Likes MonsterNine liked this post

  10. #20
    Team Member MonsterNine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    NW AZ
    Posts
    42
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Where do you get the sponson tip covers?
    Dave

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Mirage 1/4 Master
    By rbengines in forum Motors and Powerheads
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 09-14-2010, 12:20 PM
  2. Collins Mirage
    By pgf127rt in forum Boat Racing Encyclopedia
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 11-24-2006, 04:35 PM
  3. My 95 Mirage
    By CitySlicker909 in forum Boat Racing Encyclopedia
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 05-13-2006, 05:25 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •