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Thread: Old Neal racer

  1. #31
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    J4 is probably John Schubert. He would know the year the BSH was photographed. Probably 1954.

    http://www.boatracingfacts.com/forum...uy!-Neal-Hydro

  2. #32
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    What’s the epoxy glue of choice for these repairs you guys? I’m not sure what to buy. I have got the plywood available.

  3. #33
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    If you google ' Claude Fox album page 3 ', the second picture down is Dick Neal.

  4. #34
    Team Member zul8tr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moses on water View Post
    What’s the epoxy glue of choice for these repairs you guys? I’m not sure what to buy. I have got the plywood available.
    Lots of answers here and many preferences, most use the expensive West System epoxy that has several resin and hardener types available . I have used several including West. I like the simple 1:1 mix epoxy, easy to mix equal volumes in a marked cup. The others like 2:1, 3:1,4:1 etc mix are more critical mix proportions epoxy and they have to be mixed right, not like polyester resin with MEK catalyst that a hot quick cure can be made. I get my 1:1 epoxy from Clark Craft, consider a gallon for your repairs and coating the bare wood bottom and sides. Never had a glue line failure in many years on the race boats and it has rather long shelf life plus it is a somewhat flexible epoxy, brittle bad like bar top epoxy. I use Cabisil (fumated silica) for a structural thickener. Note that this thickener will turn the epoxy off-white depending on how thick you make the epoxy. For areas to be clear coated and finished bright keep that in mind.

    Epoxy needs to be protected from UV or it will yellow and chemically have issues. For UV protection over epoxy I use the Minwax Helmsman Spar urethane varnish (brush application), some use auto clear coat with hardener and with UV additive (spray application, need good respirator mask, spray booth, toxic stuff, some have paint and body shop spray the clear), or use a solid color over the epoxy.

    Clark Craft is having a epoxy sale $59/gal + ship reg $72, good deal:

    http://www.clarkcraft.com/cgi-suppli...resin&cart_id=

    But do more research on epoxy to see what is available
    No man's life, liberty or property are safe while the legislature is in session.

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    Thanks for the info I’ll try to dive in soon. I found a guy with a kh7 10 merc that is in ok shape would that mounted on the ol hydro give me any thrill or be sitting to slow for such a big boy?

  6. #36
    Team Member zul8tr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moses on water View Post
    Thanks for the info I’ll try to dive in soon. I found a guy with a kh7 10 merc that is in ok shape would that mounted on the ol hydro give me any thrill or be sitting to slow for such a big boy?
    Service KG7 will be a slug for you on a 14" transom probably in the 30mph range, IMO not much thrill but a thrill for some I would spend money on a better engine for thrill? If you want closer to period and closer to thrill you need the KG7H or a 20H (more $$). Note the H gear cases need mucho maintenance to keep in good shape, can't just run them and put away till next time, they need to be serviced after each use especially the outer cone needle bearings unless it is a bushed cone. I service the outer cone bearings and change the gear oil after each use of my 25ss with essentially the same type gear case as the 20H and that has kept if trouble free (just seals on occasion) since new in 1973. If you get one of these H jobs the gear case and tower are the most expensive part, so the gear case needs inspection to be sure it is not in poor shape and need rebuilding and that is $$$.
    No man's life, liberty or property are safe while the legislature is in session.

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  7. #37
    Team Member smittythewelder's Avatar
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    I just sold a bunch of old Keller speedometers, but still have one, a red wrinkle 15-45mph screw-on guage, that should be period-correct for your boat, and I'm saving it for anyone who has an antique like your Neal.

    http://hydroracer.net/forums/forum/m...r-speedometers

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