Towers anyone ?

[will350]

The things I run over stock 302 units make about 60-70 HP at 8500-9000.
I haven't had any failures other than ones "induced" by my rather imprecise methods. They probably don't make much torque at that RPM but as HP is a function torque vs RPM,I can "get away with it" so to speak.
I "think" they'll handle alot more If you increase the "load event" time.
Practicle experience tells me that that you can exceed the calculated max load of almost anything IF you lengthen the "load event" The analogy would be the difference between "side slipping" the clutch in your car vs letting it out with the pedal to the metal. Side slipping puts an "immediate" load on the drive train where as "letting it out" lengthens the event and allows the drive train absorb and transmit the load over a longer period of time ( we're not talking seconds, more like milliseconds) I don't think a 302 foot would much like a 45 with a "hard" mechanical coupling because of the impulse load and the torque. However( if my theory is correct) if you put some sort of "absorbative" coupler in to lengthen the load event,it wouldn't surprise me too much that a 302 foot would handle far and away more torque load than anyone thinks. It also wouldn't surprise me if it would increase the life of any L/U and allow you to put way more through it than it's design parameters. It's just a theory but,logically,it makes sense to me.
Will

Make that STOCK Yamato Ron....... The PRO (hatchet) Yamato lower units don't seem to hold up all the well from what I've been hearing. D Mod seems to be the upper limit for units - anything with more torque than a 44 Merc they can't handle for long.

[smittythewelder]

I talked to Sid Bass a few years back, and he was enthused about a plastic or composite driveshaft he had found, saying it would absorb some of the shock-loads. Are these in use now?

[Ron Hill]

Not trying to beat a "DEAD HORSE', but we plan to run the Stock 45 powerheads on OMC "CLUB FEET" in Sport C. The reason for this CONCEPT is the fact that 45 SS has about 20 guys that come and race all the time and they all seem to have lots of parts....

If for some CRAZY reason we could use this powerhead or some of its pieces, it might make it cheaper for everyone to race. All the 45 guys have extra carbs, cranks, starters...Maybe, the motor is too big, too slow, too old...but I can say that they aren't really expensive to own...

If they proved too powerful, a restrictor plate could be used....

I'll offer my help on your own clutch design....help could include some CASH....Keep me posted...

How's the TEETH??? I got one on the right that is starting to give me pain....(Exact opposite of the one I had the root canal on two months ago....Of course, no dental insurance since I retired...)...

Here is part of my "STASH" of 45 parts...Mostly 207 blocks, here...

[Ted March]

some dental insurance. It'll be well worth it if you intend to keep them.

[will350]

Considering that I've only had them for a week and a half... Not bad at all.
Still quite bit of swelling and a few sore spots but I'm "commited" to having them and the "advantages" out weigh my previous condition by a factor of +10. I'm not sick all the time and I don't look like a skid row bum when I smile.
I might even start chasing women again....(slap me for that thought).
You're alot closer to Mexico so you might think about it. The place where I got my quote is outside of Tucson(sp?). Algodones.... 95% drug stores,Dr.s(all kinds) and Dentists.My quote for extractions and dentures was $1000. I paid 4 times that here but am glad I did cause it's only a 20 minute drive and he's willing to work with me.
Have figured out that I can't take them out when I go to bed cause I try to close my mouth too far and wake up in the AM feeling like I've been in a bar fight( both sides of my jaw hurt like heck). I have "graduated" from the blender to the grinder and found that I can chew pasta if I'm careful.they'll come around in time.
Smitty's question...... I think Sid does a "skinny" mid section on his drive shafts. Have seen this on production O/Bs.Big at the power head and L/u ends and about 50% less DIA in between. A "kind of OK" solution when you can R&R the drive shaft with out having to dis-assemble the whole thing. I feel like a coupler "might" be better.... Maybe a Lovejoy (I've seen things that are similar but have concave pockets to reduce the "edge" pressure and keep the insert from spitting out) or a fluid coupler at 95% lock-up. I think you could easily make a "shock absorbing"driveshaft but it wouldn't be cheap. On the other hand,balanced against the cost of a L/U and the extra longevity,it might be cheaper than the alternatives.
Will
P.S I agree with Ted. If I would have been a little "smarter",I wouldn't have a plastic smile now.

How's the TEETH??? I got one on the right that is starting to give me pain....(Exact opposite of the one I had the root canal on two months ago....Of course, no dental insurance since I retired...)...

[John (Taylor) Gabrowski]

Some where in my wanderings in a grass drags snowmo pit about 6 years back I saw an interesting composite (cross shaft) driveshaft made out of what was supposed to be titanium that used some kind of compression spring that fought hard engagement to a cerain point and when compressed to a certain point that is where the shaft top and bottom were fully engaged for all out coupled drive. That shaft as the story on it went was a 800 unlimited fueler was to prevent the crossshaft twisting like some pretzel they did before and deliver all the power easier to the track and tunnel. That machine was pulling 118 mph on a 1/8th mile straight line track too. One of the fastest ones around and its engine was a custom build from the USA by the Whal Bros I do believe.

[will350]

I haven't had much to do but "think" for few days... The "big blow" of "06"
ripped the service line off the meter mast and PSE just got to me today.(Thank all for that... now the folks next door will get off my case about not having water(It's a long story tha't mostly about politics and county revenue)
While I was sitting in the dark with my mind whirring along,it occurred to me that "somewhere" amongst my piles,I have the final drive out of an 1100cc Yamaha shaft drive.(have NO idea why i keep this sort of stuff....) It has a 90 degree gear set and..... a "shock absorbing" gizzy. "When" I find it( I know it's there) I'll post a picture.
Will

Some where in my wanderings in a grass drags snowmo pit about 6 years back I saw an interesting composite (cross shaft) driveshaft made out of what was supposed to be titanium that used some kind of compression spring that fought hard engagement to a cerain point and when compressed to a certain point that is where the shaft top and bottom were fully engaged for all out coupled drive. That shaft as the story on it went was a 800 unlimited fueler was to prevent the crossshaft twisting like some pretzel they did before and deliver all the power easier to the track and tunnel. That machine was pulling 118 mph on a 1/8th mile straight line track too. One of the fastest ones around and its engine was a custom build from the USA by the Whal Bros I do believe.

[will350]

Well, so much for "knowing" where something is .... or thinking you know.
Those pieces have either jumped into another dimension..... or I threw them out in a cleaning frenzy. I'm going to do some "experimenting" with my camera and see if I can figure out how to do engineering sketches and turn them into jpegs that you can "see". That might help everyone to understand some of my
"unconventional thoughts" a little better.( A picture is worth 1000 words.......)
Anyway....I've been thinking that I should build a "comparative" dynomometer. "Testing on race day",well....It's a PAIN(frustrating too)
Not a bigtime full blown unit that tells you everything but the phase of the moon and prints it all out,just something really simple that I can use to do "relative comparisons" with. Right now it's all "seat of the pants". I was thinking I have a 1/2 drum of oil(I change my own)for a fluid medium and P/S
pumps (oil pumps also) will make 600-800 psi (a worn out hydraulic pump might be better,heavier duty anyway) ..... Figure out how you're going to drive it with valving so you can load it up(and your "plumbing"with a PSI gauge) And with a tach reading you'll be able to "see" the relative comparison of making a "change".
PSI vs RPM.It would make pipe selection a lot easier (would also make building pipes and adjusting just to fit that motor and what it likes a piece of cake) If you're a good "plug reader",setting up carburation would alot simpler.( you could put EGTs in there to take out some of the "guess work" and there are tons of other things you could do but this is a "tool" I can afford to "build"cheaply.)
I think it's well worth my time and effort(it's a "try and see" sort of thing,it won't be "perfect" right off........but then,you never know....)
Any one else have have any thoughts on this subject?
Will

[Dago Fast]

Take two test wheels and machine them to max out at your required rpm. Use a inductive tach, like a Tiny Tach and then you can see the changes in
performance as you experiment. Very simple but effective.

Dago Fast

[will350]

I have thought about that scenario.The issues are having a BIG tank( or going to the lake) and a "fixed load". It would take a bit of "experimentation"
to get your test wheel where you want to go. With this sort of thing I can control the load vs rpm. I can start it "no load" and bring it up. A little more thought and I "think" I can mount the pump so it will "roll" some. If I do it "right", I should be able to put an arm and a scale out there and come up with a "relative" torque reading.With that info,I can actually chart the curve.
Since what I "do" is so off the wall(and I can run these horizontally no problem),I think I can do a "one size fits all" sort of thing for these motors that will be fairly small and somewhat portable. And.... as it will be inside,my neighbors won't be subjected to the "wonderful sound" these make(although I'm pretty sure they'll still hear it, it won't be quite so obnoxious)
Will

Take two test wheels and machine them to max out at your required rpm. Use a inductive tach, like a Tiny Tach and then you can see the changes in
performance as you experiment. Very simple but effective.

Dago Fast