Quote Originally Posted by Mike Schmidt View Post
My vote would be NO. Over the years we have found that the closer you can get the carburetor to the motor the better off you are. Two data points. Years ago I did a lot of Yamaha KT 100 kart engines to help fund my boat racing. We tried a lot of stuff on the dyno (that would not pass tech) then stretched the rules in that direction on the race motors. Milled the carburetor mounting surface on the cylinder to the minimum dimension, milled the adapter plate to the minimum dimension, shortened the carburetor to the minimum dimension (all off the mounting flange side) and then assembled it without any gaskets. Was worth 1/2hp on a 15hp motor.

I built several Kawasaki KX 125 based 250 opposed twin 250 motors. Spent all winter building a new crankcase, with the reed cages kicked up toward the sparkplugs for better air flow. With this layout the two carburetors crashed into one another, so I welded up a set of carb mounts that looked like they came off a Pro Stock race car. Filled the corners in with epoxy so everything flowed real nice. Looked trick, but put the carburetors 3 inches or so further from the reed cages. The motor was a dog at best. Tried all kinds of stuff, but was still a dog. Ripped it all apart, welded up the crankcase, put the reeds and carburetors back in the "normal" location. Won the 250 Hydro National Championship at Depue with it.....

Michael
That's exactly what I did on the SST45 & 60 motors. Milled the back side of the reed mounting block & the front of the CC. No tech spec. Found out years ago the the MK25 CC on the popper accelerated better then the 20H CC so tried it on the 45 & 60 & beach starts were phenomenal.