New to me engine...what do I have

[zul8tr]

What was the condition of the prop shaft that was covered by the prop when you pulled the prop?

If you do get serious and run it that old style long ear prop has to go, but worth a use just to get operational. Many props available for an update for that 1:1 gear case

What is the condition of the crank shaft point contact cam surface?

Any pitting on those points contact surfaces? If none may just need to be properly cleaned, I do it as needed on my Yamato Y80 point ignition. Any looseness on the point lateral rocking about its post pivot support? Check point contact alignment by looking at the surface wear pattern, if not square needs to be adjusted to clean properly.

Since those coils look cooked before pulling the flywheel did you check for good spark?

Not sure about replacement coils or condensers availability, some places to search:

https://johnsoldmercurysite.com/phpBB3/index.php

There is a $15/year fee to get to parts, tech, white papers and other. General and some other areas are free to view but to not comment or ask questions

Parts may be available from:

http://www.aeroliner-boats.com/index.html

Also maybe:

Frank Erion

269-730-1337
email - fderion@msn.com

Also maybe:

Possible John Mcintosh:

http://www.johnsmcintoshvintagemercu...om//About.html

Maybe Old Mercs:

https://www.oldmercs.com/Default.asp

Maybe Outboard paradise:

https://stores.outboardparadise.com/

There are others.

NLA parts difficult to get since as they age they transform to Unobtanium ;-)

Good hunting
Pete

[cocacola]

What was the condition of the prop shaft that was covered by the prop when you pulled the prop?

If you do get serious and run it that old style long ear prop has to go, but worth a use just to get operational. Many props available for an update for that 1:1 gear case

What is the condition of the crank shaft point contact cam surface?

Any pitting on those points contact surfaces? If none may just need to be properly cleaned, I do it as needed on my Yamato Y80 point ignition. Any looseness on the point lateral rocking about its post pivot support? Check point contact alignment by looking at the surface wear pattern, if not square needs to be adjusted to clean properly.

Since those coils look cooked before pulling the flywheel did you check for good spark?

Not sure about replacement coils or condensers availability, some places to search:

https://johnsoldmercurysite.com/phpBB3/index.php

There is a $15/year fee to get to parts, tech, white papers and other. General and some other areas are free to view but to not comment or ask questions

Parts may be available from:

http://www.aeroliner-boats.com/index.html

Also maybe:

Frank Erion

269-730-1337
email - fderion@msn.com

Also maybe:

Possible John Mcintosh:

http://www.johnsmcintoshvintagemercu...om//About.html

Maybe Old Mercs:

https://www.oldmercs.com/Default.asp

Maybe Outboard paradise:

https://stores.outboardparadise.com/

There are others.

NLA parts difficult to get since as they age they transform to Unobtanium ;-)

Good hunting
Pete

Now that's a lot to chew on......see responses in CAPITALS below.

What was the condition of the prop shaft that was covered by the prop when you pulled the prop?
I WILL TAKE PICTURE. NO LOOSE METAL PIECES.
WHAT HOLDS ON THE SHEAR PIN?
IS IT JUST POUNDED IN?

If you do get serious and run it that old style long ear prop has to go, but worth a use just to get operational. Many props available for an update for that 1:1 gear case
NOT GOING TO CHANGE PROP…THIS IS MOSTLY JUST A COLLECTOR ENGINE FOR ME.E

What is the condition of the crank shaft point contact cam surface?
LOOKS SMOOTH

Any pitting on those points contact surfaces?
NO PITTING. LOOKS SMOOTH

If none may just need to be properly cleaned, I do it as needed on my Yamato Y80 point ignition. Any looseness on the point lateral rocking about its post pivot support?
NO LOOSENESS THAT I CAN TELL
Check point contact alignment by looking at the surface wear pattern, if not square needs to be adjusted to clean properly.

Since those coils look cooked before pulling the flywheel did you check for good spark?
NO I DID NOT, BUT IT DID FIRE ON AT LEASE 1 CYLINDER WHEN I PUT STARTING FLUID IN IT.

[zul8tr]

The shear pin is held in by tightening the prop shaft nut the right amount that puts the shear pin in double shear. If tightening right, not to tight to bend the pin it will stay there. I use a nylock nut and have never lost a pin.

[cocacola]

I removed the lower unit last night.
Not changed oil/grease.
The left hand threaded cone was not tight and loose enough to remove by hand.
Is there a seal or o-ring missing?
Now I see where water pump is.

[cocacola]

duplicate posting

[cocacola]

another duplicate posting....sorry.

[cocacola]

The cone is the early sleeved design with no roller bearings as in the later design. It has no petroleum lubrication just water. There is no O ring that I know of, when the cone is tightened its solid back provides the closure for the water pump chamber. The condition of the prop shaft reveals corrosion but useable - it probably wasn't greased often. Way back I had one of those Q tower Mercs (20ci power head) with the bushed cone and I would often remove the cone and grease the prop shaft, especially for prolonged storage - helped a lot.

The condition of the drive shaft at the spline is good but at the pilot seal it is poor. The seal relies on a smooth surface to keep the seal lip wear down. If you will use the engine for display no worry but to run it often the seal needs to be replaced and see if the shaft seal surface can be cleaned up?

The gear case design when secured to the tower was such that it trapped water in that pilot seal area after running not good. If the water was not removed and engine sat unused it would promote rust at the pilot seal. After each use I would dump the water out and spray lube that area and never have the rust problem in all the 2 cylinder Quicki Mercs I had and with the 25ss I still use.

Would like to see the condition of the gear case lube when you drain it if oil. If grease that will take a bit of doing - there are ways to aid that process.
I use gear 75w-90 synthetic gear oil.

You are keeping my busy and educated....thanks again.
I will show the lube when I get back to it in a couple days.

I am a gearhead, but am new to this.
I did work on my 115 & 200 Mercs....this one is more fun so far.

[zul8tr]

Very up on these Quicki Merc race engines and their guts. Did a lot of testing, rebuilding and racing of these. Happy to help

[cocacola]

finally got back to things last night...
scrubbed and cleaned lower unit with simple green, scrub pad and steel wool.
Used a scribed to free up any debris in water pick up holes.
Removed impeller.

No oil or grease in lower.
The bottom screw looked like it had some grease on it.
Brass screws....does that sound right.

Are there supposed to be seals or o-rings behind those screws?
There was one behind the larger screw, but it blew out into the yard when I was cleaning....it looked old anyway.

The shaft turns silky smooth, no grinding or rough spots.

[cocacola]

finally got back to things last night...
scrubbed and cleaned lower unit with simple green, scrub pad and steel wool.
Used a scribed to free up any debris in water pick up holes.
Removed impeller.

No oil or grease in lower.
The bottom screw looked like it had some grease on it.
Brass screws....does that sound right.

Are there supposed to be seals or o-rings behind those screws?
There was one behind the larger screw, but it blew out into the yard when I was cleaning....it looked old anyway.

The shaft turns silky smooth, no grinding or rough spots.