The Evinrude/Johnson stock lower units mostly used 12 to 21 gears on mid sized motors however my old book lists 18 & 33 hp motors = .571 to 1, the ha ha newer 22s & 31.8s have the same except for the thru hub types.
The Evinrude/Johnson stock lower units mostly used 12 to 21 gears on mid sized motors however my old book lists 18 & 33 hp motors = .571 to 1, the ha ha newer 22s & 31.8s have the same except for the thru hub types.
That i am, i don't race but spectate a bit.Originally Posted by Roy Hodges
I've been trying to find info on old omc motors, it seems some techs. can only relate to cc,s not cu. in. and other info without the book.
Skoontz , i like reading about things to make omcs fast, as theres not much out there except fo mercs.
RichardKCMo
Thats the way I find it too, dealers outlooks toward performance enhancements seem taboo, -you dont do that- or its already Hi Perf. Taking into account that a boat motor needs to rely more on tork than screemin H P cause a boats always goin up or maybe close to level but not exactly. All their accel. and speed are eek-ed out of 1 gear [forward] and they dont coast.
In comparison with motorcycle motors of similar ci. bike motors ROCK and have those 5-6 gears [hey why dont we got gears]
So its challenge to make em fly and a pleasure to hear from another who knows about it. Any one whos seen my posts knows Im a 31.8ci hack but I know a couple guys who have 22ci that smoke me! The secret... adapted AB quicky. I also saw a B mod with a 22ci OMC at Millville dominating the straightaways. Maybe some day 31.8s will run C mod, I wonder what lower unit could be used.
Omc 35s have already been tryed in c and d , too fast for 1 too slow for the other. Outa be somewhere to fit though.
RichardKCMo
I Can guess you mean fast in C, slow in D cause of cid. What did they use for a lower unit? Were they using pipes or stacks? The 70s 50hp OMCs are I believe 43 +or- ci. and not very slow. A Bass D lower unit would be good for either.Originally Posted by RichardKCMo
Your best money is going to be spent below the cavitation plate reducing drag/creating transom lift first. Then after you get that dialed in, work the engine mods. The only way to make a screw together OMC gearcase work well is by removing it and adapting and Quicksilver unit, or some other reasonable unit. And when you run a stock OMC gearcase, the way to make it work is with a Merc propeller. At least that's what we did. There are also certain year OMC thru hubs hat blew water out at too slow of a speed. Post
'78 was when they worked a little harder on hydrodynamics.
Im gettin more than 50 from a screw together lower, ground down alot, coned, above and below the propshaft clearanced for better props, the fin thinned, the screw holes filled and I havnt removed the R teeth yet.
Bein on a Bezoats hydro and spinnin a 16P prop helps too but a set of gears would be cool. I think a 31.8s too much for an AB merc and they are too valuable to find out the hard way.
Now this LU is full forward, teeth removed from R gear so no more opposite spin friction or cradle- dog friction and no spacer friction because the dog is pinned forward thru the shaft, not spaced between gears + no more double gear lash. Ive been tryin a prop that would probably be pretty fast but it seems to slip excessively, maybe its because the torpedos kinda fat despite what Ive done to it. I tried some tweekin on the prop hopin to get better traction. That and going back to a non cut flywheel as advised, I want to test it this weekend. Im tryin to get an omc to be as fast as a C moda.. ha ha.. got a lonnng way to go!
How much gain have you gotten from stripping the gears?
Im still waitn to run it, Ill let ya know, next couple days.
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