I always thought it was the areo-dynamic bubble face shield Jimbo wore...Originally Posted by NERSTROM
I always thought it was the areo-dynamic bubble face shield Jimbo wore...Originally Posted by NERSTROM
So, as long as they are the 70 HP motors? Like 55 HP electric shifts and such aren't what I want???
Side Bar to Jim Nerstrom.....
In 1978, when you jetted Freddy and My CCC Evinrude.....I never dreamed Freddy and I would win... As you recall, like it was yesterday, firstr run out, one lap, engine felt like it "Stuck"...I came in thinking I had not given it enough break in time....You and Freddy pulled the plugs....Then rejetted her...She ran like a song for 7 hours....
My old V-4 could see 108 at times, the new V-6 went 118 when I quit looking at the speedometer....I knew we had a shot at it, then catching on fire at the pit stop.....We made Brad Miller and Crazy Horse Camp Grounds proud that day!!!
And people wondered why I had tears in my eyes when Chad came across the line, yesterday, as the overall winner of the Blue Water Casino 300 Enduro.....Flash backs...Thanks, Jim, for all your support and help through the years...
I think you want to stick with 65HP, 70HP and 75's. Evinrude or Johnson. Sierra makes nice aftermarket pistons, a TON cheaper than OMC, and in my opinion, better due to the stronger looking skirts. Last time I weighed them, they were very close to an OMC stock piston as well.
Cranks, unless you have a good connection for drive shafts, stick to the old style cranks. The newer lots and lots of splines cost lots and lots of money. Not enough of them in junk yards yet to bring cost down. Not uncommon to pay over 100 bucks for one, and all we do is cut it down...... seems a waste. 100 bucks is a1 /4 of a new prop, which will make you go fast more so than any driveshaft.
Flywheels, there is a style known as a Pancake flywheel. They are the lightest stock flywheels you can find. They are rare though. Can't remember part numbers. When you find one, get at least the stator as well, as the magnets need to be correctly aligned.
Ignition, I like both old and new style. No secrets there, they both work.
I see speeds somewhere in the 90's all the time with my Super E. I can tell you that the engines are already decent for speed. You have to prop for speed. These engines are torque monsters, so you can figure out what needs to be done from there. No magic prop, just never stop trying to find the magical one.
You don't need to spend much money on a good rig. If you are even remotley mechancially inclined, you can have a fast SEH/FEH. You just need to test props and set ups. You can spend thousands if you choose for engines, or spend hundreds, then a few props and get as good if not better results.
Tim
I Dave is right. Not to hard to get a good running set up.. BUT, if you see a orange color engine in a pile get it.. That’s a 75 stinger.. Port timing is a little different..
Stanley Henderson
Del Rio, Tx.
Ron, Like David said, 60,65,70,75 HP from 1973 through1985 are what you want to look for...They started going to 56ci " foam casted blocks " ( not legal for FE ) in late 85 early 86.
Some good info here ...I wish this was posted a few years ago when I was building mine
Jeff 93-C
Any chance of like posting that OMC code to remember the year, and serial numbers....???
Or do you have a list on serial numbers....
Going to make a run to Yuma, Phoenix, Kingman, Needles, and Apple Valley in two weeks....looking for STUFF!!!!! (Good STUFF, you know)...
Omc ID by model numbers not serial numbers.. This attachment should work for the newer stuff...On the older stuff I can give you some exampels......
Evinrude 1975 70hp.....model # 70572
Evinrude 1978 75hp.....model # 75849
Johnson 1975 70hp....model #70es75
Johnson 1978 75hp....model #75etlr78
Here's the newer code:
Jeff 93-C
Here is the best guide I have seen. Even has the race stuff.
Originally Posted by Barry Strawn
Good one
Jeff 93-C
That list is WOW! Thanks for posting it!
Since 1925, about 150 different racing outboards have been made.
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